NZ PISTONS ON A 4EFTE BLOCK

So guys, ive been reading around and alot of guys suggest toyota nz(1nz or 2nz) pistons as a cheaper replacement than going forged.

What id like to know is, apart from honing the block, are there any other mods that need to be done(like on the 4e rods for example).

Can we use 4e rods on those pistons and what boost will it be able to handle from a td04l.

Also what cr will we get to and what are the expected power outputs?
 
First of all, what power / boost do you want to run?

Hi Padders, im looking at hitting at least 200hp atw from stock internals at whatever boost possible(the lower the better for reliability) to reach those figures.

and exceed that by using the 2nz to atleast 250-300hp atw.

i want to be able to do it on normal 95unleaded pump fuel if possible.
 
i had planned not to respond, as i don't really like to deter people and i love a good project as much as anyone else in this forum
but when i read your post, i thought to myself "Why, why, why?!?!"
the reason for that is rather simple---i think you are giving yourself unnecessary work/expenses in this day and age. If you had this idea 10/20 years ago i would have endorsed it completely as back then we did not have the plethora of forged parts readily available on the market like we have now and people had to be ingenious to save money and/or create suitable parts for their builds/projects. We seldom have to do this today, unless the person is really going for something extreme. In the meantime, you can maximize the stock engine with a good tune and set up and maybe achieve or get very close to your current goals (200whp). After this point, i would suggest you invest in some forged pistons and rods to get to the next level you mentioned (250/300whp), as even the cheaper forged options should get you there. For all the research and additional works that you plan to do to run NZ or any other oem pistons, rods, gideon pins, rings, whatever, you might as well get specifically designed 4e/5e forged stuff and do it properly and know exactly what you are dealing with upfront---no guess work. And yes, initially, i know it may sound cheaper to use "NZ pistons and other oem parts", but are the savings (if any), even worth it and the hassle. I'd also suggest that you set up a spreadsheet and look closely at the cost of both alternatives to help you with your decision. When you determine your project budget, if you don't have all the funds, then save towards it.

all the best whatever you decide
 

Padders_GT

Member
Forged pistons are about £480-£510

By the time you've messed about getting new rings for others you may as well just buy the correct ones.

If you need any help or a quote with a forged build let me know
 
Hey guys, thank you so much for the response and advice.

i never really looked at it in this way, Gorgan you have opened up my eyes and mind, considering the car isn't going to be used everyday saving up and doing it right the 1st time is a better option.

much appreciated guys :)
 
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Calum122

Member +
That is the very same post i saw that got me thinking, because here in South Africa its much cheaper to get NZ pistons instead of forged.(like 10 times cheaper).
A set of forged pistons in the UK will set you back, what £600. Surely a UK Stockist will ship to SA. I sent off some Headlamps to SA, cost around £40. Big box mind. And good weight.
 
Just got a quotation from 1 of the local guys that deals wossner. £943 for Wossner pistons, PEC rods,arp conrod cap bolts. arp head bolts and Athena MLS head gasket. Manage to save up £754.97 just gonna get the other £188.03 plus extra(incase i run into other things that need changing) and im good to go.....
 
hEY
Can't just order them from here:
http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=502_519_577&products_id=321

And get them to ship it to you. Really can't see them costing you that much...

Failure that RHDJapan will ship them to you, again still got to be cheaper than what you're quoting!
Hi

ive tried everywhere and ive done the calculations, its working out cheaper to use other oem replacements instead of going forge. The last quote i got for forged was 18750 ZAR which is like 1087.31 pounds where as labour cost is free, d16 pistons free and all engineering cost will total to a max of 3500 zar which is 202.93 pounds
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
if you just wanted to get the engine running, i would use the OEM route as it is cheaper. however, the OEM parts are not going to hold out at 300whp for very long so you may as well do it once and do it right for what you want to achieve.
 
if you just wanted to get the engine running, i would use the OEM route as it is cheaper. however, the OEM parts are not going to hold out at 300whp for very long so you may as well do it once and do it right for what you want to achieve.
Hi dac

Thanks for the advice. But I'm now thinking a daily driver nothing more than 200hp. Will oem be fine for that?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
sure. if you happy with around 200bhp at the flywheel then you should be fine with oem bits. more than that i would be considering spending a bit more on uprated parts.

as long as you are confident your machine shop can make the pistons fit whilst maintaining acceptable CR, then that should do fine. custom machine work can soon add up though, so speak to them beforehand as it could be as cheap, or cheaper to buy off the shelf forged parts.
 
sure. if you happy with around 200bhp at the flywheel then you should be fine with oem bits. more than that i would be considering spending a bit more on uprated parts.

as long as you are confident your machine shop can make the pistons fit whilst maintaining acceptable CR, then that should do fine. custom machine work can soon add up though, so speak to them beforehand as it could be as cheap, or cheaper to buy off the shelf forged parts.
Well the cost at the machine shop isn't really high. Here they are quite reasonable and well the guy who does the machining is a friend so its not going to cost too much. That's why I ended up going the oem root. Spares are easily available if something breaks, and well...... The cost is way way way lower with oem. ... If it costed anything near forge then I would have definitely went forged but right now it cost just over a tenth which I can easily afford.
 
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