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Thanks, I'll get back to you ASAP on whether I'll take a set or the whole lot off your hands. These will definitely fit onto a C56 box right? Need one urgently but spares would come in handy. It does have an LSD but I don't think its a Toyota LSD, not 100% sure on it...

Any driveshafts by any chance?

Do you have any driveshafts for sale? After an offside driveshaft for c56 gearbox but could do with a set. Let me know if you've got any and what condition etc.. Thanks

Are these for EP82 or EP91? I've got an EP82 with a Glanza gearbox on it and I'm after a set for that, not had any luck though :/

I'm after a set of driveshafts for a C56 gearbox (Glanza) with both inner and outer joints intact. With or without boots too but would prefer with the boots. If anyone has any that they fancy getting rid of, drop me a line. Don't really fancy getting hold of new ones as I'm a bit short on...

Managed to get the wheel off and take a look at whats actually going on whether or not I have something serious to worry about. Turns out nothing had actually come loose or been damaged thankfully and much to my relief. The source of the noise was from the nut at the top of the strut which had...

Thanks for the reply, I'm going to try and get it checked over the week if I manage to get a chance. The noise it was making when on full lock has stopped but I'm still stuck with the sound of the suspension sounding like its loose/hitting the body. Not been driving it as much so that whatever...

Basically I'm just wanting to know if there are any major differences between the suspension on the 3 chassis of starlets I've mentioned. Reason being is I've recently been getting a gradual "creak" from the front right everytime the car is turned tightly or on full lock. Going over speedbumps...

Thought I'd update this and let you guys know that I've managed to get it working :D Had such a ball ache trying to swap the wires myself as I didn't want to chop them and after a ages, managed to get hole of someone who's a complete natural at it lol. Got them swapped and it works like a charm...

VTEC kicked in yo?

How do you pop the back of the connector open? I've tried but all I can manage is to slide it up a tiny bit. The rest of it just doesn't seem to to want to come out and at this rate I'll probably end up breaking something. Anyone got any suggestions or should I just go ahead and chop em?

Haven't had much time to try it again or try any of the methods you guys have suggested. Will give em all a go and I'm gonna leave the switching of the wires on the loom as a last resort. Hopefully sometime this week and will report back as to whether or not I manage to get it running right...

Really appreciate all the help guys. From what I can see in the other thread, I'm guessing after swapping pinout 15 onto 7 and putting the wire from pinout 12 onto 15 should sort the problem. Anyone know what happens to the wire which was originally for pinout 7 then? Or does it just end up...

Just checked it out now mate. Is it definitely the number 7 and 15 pins on connector 2 that need swapping around? Coz from that PDF pin 15 on connector 2 seems to be something to do with A/C. Didn't think that would have any effect really.....

Thanks for clearing that up mate. Hopefully it works after trying this

Doesn't seem to be any corrosion from what I can see but have given it a light clean up nonetheless. I have opened it up but not sure what to look for and don't really wanna start touching the circuitboards incase i break something or moisture messes something up etc...

its a mk3 quadlight that i'm putting it into. The label on the front of the ECU has faded but I can make out the ending of 10040.

Yeah it should do the job then. Being an EP91 the sensors are usually a bit more expensive compared to the EP82 ones. Best you can do to make it last a while and get rid of the blank spot before you buy another one would be to take it out and give it a good clean. Happened to one of mine not...

Its the one in your first pic. If its faulty it causes the engine to over fuel and you'll notice a sort of blank spot when you hit the throttle. The 1 pin is your radiator fan switch, if that ones faulty your fan will either stay on constantly or not come on at all.

Standard ECU was put on almost immediately after seeing all these issues. Worked perfectly normal again. Haven't tried on the other ECU since. Reckon its been messed around with?