3g brake kit group buy
- Thread starter steo800
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Dave@TM-developments.com
Trader
There are three main methods of bleeding: Pump & Hold, Vacuum and Pressure. Pump & Hold generally requires two people, the other methods can be done by a sole person.
* Pump and Hold Method: One person pumps the brake pedal to compress the air, then holds pressure on it. The other person opens the bleeder valve to let out fluid and air, then closes the valve after the pedal has landed (to prevent air being sucked back in through the valve on the upstroke). The process is repeated, sometimes many times, for each wheel. Usually a length of clear tubing is connected to the bleeder valve and run to a container during the process, both to collect the toxic brake fluid and to better view the fluid and bubbles. The master cylinder reservoir must be replenished frequently, for if it goes dry the entire process must be redone. The cover must be left loose so that the fluid may be drawn, but should be in place so that fluid does not squirt out on the return stroke. It may be a good idea to not let the pedal bottom out during this procedure, as the master cylinder seals may be damaged by encountering accumulated sediment and / or corrosion. A good practice is to block the pedal before any work is started. To do this, depress the pedal as far as it will normally go (before you start any work) and place something under the pedal to keep it from going further. This way as you (or your assistant) depress the pedal it cannot go too far and possibly damage the master cylinder.
* Pump and Hold Method, One Person Option: This uses either a "one man" bleeder tool, comprising of a one way valve at the end of a length of tubing which is attached to the bleeder valve, or a special one way bleeder valve, such as the Russell Speed Bleeder. These methods have the disadvantage that air is sometimes sucked back into the system via the bleeder valve threads, this can be alleviated to a degree by using teflon tape on those threads, or by ensuring the valve is only opened by a small amount for the final stage of bleeding.
* Vacuum Method: The master cylinder is topped off and the cover left loose. A specialized vacuum pump, such as the MityVac is attached to the bleeder valve, which is opened and fluid extracted with the pump until it runs clear of bubbles. Once again, the master cylinder reservoir level must be maintained. The vacuum method can also draw in air via the bleeder threads.
* Pressure Method: A specialized pressure pump, such as the Motive Product Power Bleeder is attached to the master cylinder and filled with fluid. The pump is used to pressurize the system to about 10psi, and the bleeder valves are opened one at a time until the fluid is clear of air. One advantage to this system is that the pump reservoir usually holds enough fluid that running dry is not likely. This is the method most professional shops use, though they use commercial equipment instead of the above mentioned unit.
Typically, one starts with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder; almost always the rear passenger wheel, then goes to the rear driver's wheel, front passenger wheel, and finally the driver's front wheel; but see the technical manual for the vehicle in question for proper procedure.
If you attach the line to caliper first and get them changed over quickly you may not have to bleed the rear brakes
* Pump and Hold Method: One person pumps the brake pedal to compress the air, then holds pressure on it. The other person opens the bleeder valve to let out fluid and air, then closes the valve after the pedal has landed (to prevent air being sucked back in through the valve on the upstroke). The process is repeated, sometimes many times, for each wheel. Usually a length of clear tubing is connected to the bleeder valve and run to a container during the process, both to collect the toxic brake fluid and to better view the fluid and bubbles. The master cylinder reservoir must be replenished frequently, for if it goes dry the entire process must be redone. The cover must be left loose so that the fluid may be drawn, but should be in place so that fluid does not squirt out on the return stroke. It may be a good idea to not let the pedal bottom out during this procedure, as the master cylinder seals may be damaged by encountering accumulated sediment and / or corrosion. A good practice is to block the pedal before any work is started. To do this, depress the pedal as far as it will normally go (before you start any work) and place something under the pedal to keep it from going further. This way as you (or your assistant) depress the pedal it cannot go too far and possibly damage the master cylinder.
* Pump and Hold Method, One Person Option: This uses either a "one man" bleeder tool, comprising of a one way valve at the end of a length of tubing which is attached to the bleeder valve, or a special one way bleeder valve, such as the Russell Speed Bleeder. These methods have the disadvantage that air is sometimes sucked back into the system via the bleeder valve threads, this can be alleviated to a degree by using teflon tape on those threads, or by ensuring the valve is only opened by a small amount for the final stage of bleeding.
* Vacuum Method: The master cylinder is topped off and the cover left loose. A specialized vacuum pump, such as the MityVac is attached to the bleeder valve, which is opened and fluid extracted with the pump until it runs clear of bubbles. Once again, the master cylinder reservoir level must be maintained. The vacuum method can also draw in air via the bleeder threads.
* Pressure Method: A specialized pressure pump, such as the Motive Product Power Bleeder is attached to the master cylinder and filled with fluid. The pump is used to pressurize the system to about 10psi, and the bleeder valves are opened one at a time until the fluid is clear of air. One advantage to this system is that the pump reservoir usually holds enough fluid that running dry is not likely. This is the method most professional shops use, though they use commercial equipment instead of the above mentioned unit.
Typically, one starts with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder; almost always the rear passenger wheel, then goes to the rear driver's wheel, front passenger wheel, and finally the driver's front wheel; but see the technical manual for the vehicle in question for proper procedure.
If you attach the line to caliper first and get them changed over quickly you may not have to bleed the rear brakes
Dave@TM-developments.com
Trader
Takes a while to Aus Brett, you have PM
HutchGlanzaV
Member +
Dave you have a PM. I REALLY want a set of these bad boys!
Dave@TM-developments.com
Trader
Replied mate
HutchGlanzaV
Member +
Dave you've got another PM. I've got all the money NOW! yay!
Dave@TM-developments.com
Trader
Sorted
ok thank god i bought these brakes, they sved my life yesterday, was going along minding my own business doing about 60mph, when out of nowhere some STUPID women pulls out in front of my, and when i say in front of my i mean like only feet away, so i hit the brakes and drop down through the gears and some how manage to slow down enough in time. if i hadnt have fitted these brakes i would have stopped in the arse end of her.
might look into a set myself when i have somemore cash