4efte overheating under boost

[Fahim]

If it is pressurising the cooling system you have a bad headgasket, a crack or warp in the block or head or the head isn't bolted down properly.

The only other unlikely thing it could be, is the water jacket of the turbo is cracked and boost pressure is pressurising the cooling system. This is very unlikely. Worth bypassing the coolant to the turbo to rule it out though.

Brother i have changed 4 headgasket till now,head has been faced(head straighten from lathe)a little,block has no wrap in it.
Everything checked,no crack or wrap found in the head or block...
New headbolts are installed,and workshop said they tighten the bolts correctly.
And no issues found in the turbo waterline as the workshop said.
And there is no thermostat in the thermostat housing.
Is this heat issue for having no thermostat?

 

[dac69er]

You could try putting a thermostat in, but I doubt it will solve your problem.
Have you tried replacing the radiator cap? If that isnt holding pressure it will boil over more easily.

If that is fine then the combustion pressure is pushing into the cooling system via the ways I mentioned above.

Did they install the headbolts with the washers in place?

 

[Fahim]

Brother they install headbolts with washers in place as the mentioned.
And radiator cap is changed to 1.1

 

[Fahim]

But car is still overheating,no water consumption but when the needle in gauge goes around 3/4 of the gauge,then water is falls from reservoir tank by the overflow pipe

 

[Fahim]

I again mention,no thermostat is in the engine

 

[Jay]

If you have replaced all of the parts you mention then it's time to go back to basics.

Duncan mentioned a cylinder leakage test. These can sometimes give differing results but it could certainly highlight in which cylinder you are experiencing the issue.

Also, just out of curiosity, have you checked the underside of the headgasket for signs of failure? Standard headgaskets are generally a lot more forgiving than aftermarket versions so I can't see there being an issue with gasket choice.

Interested to see what the culprit is bro.

Jay

 

[Fahim]

Brother engine is completely basic.
I didnt get the 4efte original piston so i polished top of the 5efe piston and installed them...
I get 10.5-11bar in all of the cylinder.
And i have installed oem headgasket of 4efte.
I didn't install anything aftermarket

 

[Jay]

Yes I can see.

Have a cylinder leakage test done and report back.

 

[Fahim]

Yes I can see.

Have a cylinder leakage test done and report back.

In my country cylinder leak test is not available,as we dont have the instrument of cylinder leak test

 

[Fahim]

In my country cylinder leak test is not available,as we dont have the instrument of cylinder leak test

Btw no white smoke in breather or exhaust.and no engine oil consumption

 

[dac69er]

If you cant do that test then you cant be 100% sure there is no cracks in the head or block. As you mentioned the original engine had a cracked piston, there is a chance something else got cracked too.

If you drive normally and get the engine up to temperature and you stop but leave the car running, does it overheat or does the fan go on and off and control the temperature?

 

[Calum122]

Massive respect to you and Jay for helping people out.

I try if I can, but you guys are religiously on it!

 

[dac69er]

Massive respect to you and Jay for helping people out.

I try if I can, but you guys are religiously on it!

we like to help where we can :drive:

 

[Fahim]

If you cant do that test then you cant be 100% sure there is no cracks in the head or block. As you mentioned the original engine had a cracked piston, there is a chance something else got cracked too.

If you drive normally and get the engine up to temperature and you stop but leave the car running, does it overheat or does the fan go on and off and control the temperature?

If i drive normally and get the engine up to temperature and i stop but leave the car running,it doesnt overheat at all,gauge needle remains within the middle,and fan go on and off and control the temperature.
Engine only overheats when i drive bit hard.

 

[gorganl2000]

These r my pistons

now from those pictures i can tell that is NOT a genuine/oem head gasket

http://id-workz.co.uk/service-parts...-seals/oe-genuine-head-gasket-4e-fte?limit=75


http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2250

just click the enlarge buttons and compare

and i have to agree with the others----its either related to the warpped/cracked block and/or head or a damaged head gasket as your coolant system is being pressurized and forcing coolant out the radiator into the over flow bottle.

i cant see shaved/polished pistons being the cause of your issue

 

[Rev]

I agree definitely seems to be more going on here.
My no thermostat and boiling over issues have been improved by a new radiator cap but still there around 6300 rpm, yours at 3500rpm is a whole other level.

In my case radiator hose leaks occurred which can effect water pump cavitation but initial overheating occurred when someone replaced my 1 bar cap.

Also this may not fix the issue but for the peace of mind for those with no thermostat can someone say if the Starlet thermostat directs flow through the head ports as some thermostats are especially designed to do?

 

[Fahim]

now from those pictures i can tell that is NOT a genuine/oem head gasket

http://id-workz.co.uk/service-parts...-seals/oe-genuine-head-gasket-4e-fte?limit=75


http://www.tuningdevelopments.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=2250

just click the enlarge buttons and compare

and i have to agree with the others----its either related to the warpped/cracked block and/or head or a damaged head gasket as your coolant system is being pressurized and forcing coolant out the radiator into the over flow bottle.

i cant see shaved/polished pistons being the cause of your issue

No brother o tried to stop overheating by using 2e headgasket as 2e headgasket has more water line.but didnt solve the problem so later i installed genuine oem 4e headgasket.
But still now i have the overheat issue.
I attached pics of my present new headgasket

 

[Fahim]

I agree definitely seems to be more going on here.
My no thermostat and boiling over issues have been improved by a new radiator cap but still there around 6300 rpm, yours at 3500rpm is a whole other level.

In my case radiator hose leaks occurred which can effect water pump cavitation but initial overheating occurred when someone replaced my 1 bar cap.

Also this may not fix the issue but for the peace of mind for those with no thermostat can someone say if the Starlet thermostat directs flow through the head ports as some thermostats are especially designed to do?

So how did u get your overheat problem's solution?

 

[Rev]

My heat solutions are still being tested so keeping to 15psi at present with a few improvements as below -
1 Leaks mostly after stopping engine on or off.
2 Leaks after city traffic and high revs

> Bleeding the air helped by running engine on a slope with radiator cap a high point.
> Making sure the overflow tube is higher than the cap so it naturally bleeds air to the bottle helped.
> Replacing burst tubes helped 1, found one slightly cracked with toyota pink fluid that reveals leaks.
> Putting new silicone pipes on the turbo water feed lowered temps.
( These were the cheap copys that have sharper corners so may have reduced flow rate or
changed the pressure across the thermo housing and water pump? )
> Slightly adjusting the angle of the auto oil cooler to match the radiator and FMIC seemed to help.
> Now have 1.1bar radiator cap on has helped with 1 but burst more hoses still checking this.
> ph tested my coolant was not up to spec.even from a fresh Toyota bottle
> issue 1 was also controlled by the turbo timer running the engine after stopping but I disconnected it
and had no problem for quiet a while.

PS.Some posts say when you take out the thermostat you should increase pressure with the radiator
cap. Whether this rebalances the system correctly so water goes properly through I don't know
but 1 bar worked ok for my setup previously. Having said that the oem thermostat I have from
toyota looks like a bypass style thermostat which I read should not be left out as the coolant
sometimes just takes the path of least resistance' which may sometimes be the bypass rather
than through the radiator.

 

[Fahim]

My heat solutions are still being tested so keeping to 15psi at present with a few improvements as below -
1 Leaks mostly after stopping engine on or off.
2 Leaks after city traffic and high revs

> Bleeding the air helped by running engine on a slope with radiator cap a high point.
> Making sure the overflow tube is higher than the cap so it naturally bleeds air to the bottle helped.
> Replacing burst tubes helped 1, found one slightly cracked with toyota pink fluid that reveals leaks.
> Putting new silicone pipes on the turbo water feed lowered temps.
( These were the cheap copys that have sharper corners so may have reduced flow rate or
changed the pressure across the thermo housing and water pump? )
> Slightly adjusting the angle of the auto oil cooler to match the radiator and FMIC seemed to help.
> Now have 1.1bar radiator cap on has helped with 1 but burst more hoses still checking this.
> ph tested my coolant was not up to spec.even from a fresh Toyota bottle
> issue 1 was also controlled by the turbo timer running the engine after stopping but I disconnected it
and had no problem for quiet a while.

PS.Some posts say when you take out the thermostat you should increase pressure with the radiator
cap. Whether this rebalances the system correctly so water goes properly through I don't know
but 1 bar worked ok for my setup previously. Having said that the oem thermostat I have from
toyota looks like a bypass style thermostat which I read should not be left out as the coolant
sometimes just takes the path of least resistance' which may sometimes be the bypass rather
than through the radiator.

Brother from where does ur water leaks?