Forged Engine Rattle? Video, take a look!

clarkytrd

Member +
Ok folks, I got my new engine up and running. Still needs the timing set on it but it started on the first turn of the key and I've drove it around my yard a few times and it seems ok.

Has a slight rattle which I think could just be the forged internals!?



Cheers :)

John
 

goldenvtr

Member +
That's pretty loud, mine does it but not that bad, usually for about 30seconds from cold start' then it complety normal
 

Skalabala

Member +
What pistons do you have and what are your piston to wall clearance?
And that sound might as well be valve train.
 

jam

Member +
Its sound like Valve train. Have you check valve clearance? What valve spring are you using?
 

Texx

Super Moderator
Another video clip showing the engine being revved would give a clearer indication, but as said above it sounds more like a valve/cam related noise. My first thought would be to double check the valve clearance.
 

clarkytrd

Member +
Cheers for the help lads, and now that I think of it... I could have mixed up some of the buckets when replacing them.

It is a fully standard head / cams / springs, etc... Just new forged bottom end!

How do I go about checking valve clearances and IF I've mixed some buckets up, where do I go from here?!
(The head has been skimmed, replaced valve stem oil seals, re-seated valves) :)


Thanks,

John
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
mate that sounds awful, what speed was that engine idling at? that sounds more like a diesel than anything else, i would be taking it back to the engine builder asap, thats defo not right, i've heard tractors sounding niceralso make sure the inlet cam is tensioned, the ammount of people who dont do this is unbelievable, even so called starlet specialists dont do this from experience, the way to do this, is take the rocker cover off, put the engine in tdc, and then see if you can put an m6 bolt through the hole on the inlet cam, but it must screw in not just push in,
 
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clarkytrd

Member +
Thanks for the reply, Cams are tensioned 100% and I've checked the clearances now and they are as follows :

INLET:
1. 0.20mm
2. 0.05mm
3. 0.20mm
4. 0.20mm
5. 0.10mm
6. 0.15mm
7. 0.00mm *(I could NOT get any of the feeler gauges between the lobe and shim..!!??)*
8. 0.15mm


EXHAUST:
1. 0.20mm
2. 0.20mm
3. 0.20-25mm
4. 0.20-25mm
5. 0.20mm
6. 0.20-25mm
7. 0.20mm
8. 0.20mm

As said above, INLET NO:7 seems the real bad one. But there are others with some lower numbers as you can see.

Any idea on where to go from here?

Cheers for the help,

John
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
the clearances dont look to out of place, a couple of them are far to tight, and i would strongly recomend you speak to the builder and find out what the coo is, cos that engine sounds like a bucket of shit, and them valve clearances need checking.

just to check, you were turning the engine by hand when checking the clearances, so that when no 1 valve was down u were checking valve 8 yeah?
 

clarkytrd

Member +
To be honest, it really doesnt sound like the bottom end mate. There is the piston rattle alright but I'm pretty sure its only cam / valve clearance.

I need to set the timing spot on and go from there. I turned it all over by hand just now and checked all clearances, they were checked with cam lobes at 12 o clock.

I have been onto my engine builder and gave him the clearances so just waiting word back. I know the block was built 110% so I know its not that.
Every single thing was checked before engine was put back together, only thing I messed up was mixing the buckets up when I re-fitted them.

Inlet No:7 I could not get any of the feeler gauges under the cam so that would mean a slightly opened valve right?
Would that cause my problem?
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
To be honest, it really doesnt sound like the bottom end mate. There is the piston rattle alright but I'm pretty sure its only cam / valve clearance.

I need to set the timing spot on and go from there. I turned it all over by hand just now and checked all clearances, they were checked with cam lobes at 12 o clock.

I have been onto my engine builder and gave him the clearances so just waiting word back. I know the block was built 110% so I know its not that.
Every single thing was checked before engine was put back together, only thing I messed up was mixing the buckets up when I re-fitted them.

Inlet No:7 I could not get any of the feeler gauges under the cam so that would mean a slightly opened valve right?
Would that cause my problem?

no,

set the cam timing correctly this is a piece of piss as the mark is on the exhaust cam and distributor,

set the engione to tdc, and line the marks i just mentioned up, then bolt the distributor up, that will make your engine timed up, the rest is done by the ecu,

the cams should be checked by the following rule,

when valve 1 is fully compressed, check valve 8, when valve 2 is fully compressed check valve 7, when valve 8 is fully compressed check valve 1 etc etc etc,

the fact that you have no clearance on one or 2 of the valves wouldnt make it clunk like that, in fact it would help make the engine dead silent, you'll just burn through loads of valves, and damage valve seats etc and have less compression,

and providing you have checked the valve clearances correctly, i wouldnt have to much confidence in an engine builder who cant even shim cams up properly.

as i said take it back to the builder and get everything double checked
 

clarkytrd

Member +
I'll recheck the clearances the way you say and go from there.. the engine builder only done the block work and assembled the bottom end.

Me and a friend re seated the valves, done the oil seals, etc.. but as I said the only thing I messed up on was mixing the buckets up.

The head was perfect before the rebuild so I'm puzzled..
 

sx_turbo

Lifer
I'll recheck the clearances the way you say and go from there.. the engine builder only done the block work and assembled the bottom end.

Me and a friend re seated the valves, done the oil seals, etc.. but as I said the only thing I messed up on was mixing the buckets up.

The head was perfect before the rebuild so I'm puzzled..


ah right sorry clarky, thought the guy had built the lot,

you can buy shims so not to worry to much about that, or get them ones machined down, so its not a huge issue, have you torqued up the cam carriers to the correct torque?

also when you re-seat valves the valve clearances tend to go up the wall, because as you grind the valve against the seat your effectively losing material, pushing the shim closer to the cam, the more pitted the valves and seats are the more your gonna need to adjust the shims
 
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clarkytrd

Member +
Yeah I torqued everything up so they should be fine, so how do I go about buying new shims?
What exactly do I need?

I've double checked the timing and the cam marks are spot on, cams are tensioned so I just need a timing light and set that.
 
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