Gearbox synchros?

Discussion in 'DRIVETRAIN' started by dac69er, Dec 11, 2019.

  1. dac69er

    dac69er Super Moderator

    Got a call from the gearbox rebuilder this afternoon. It's all done :)
    He said the synchros all seemed to work ok, so things look promising.

    Going to go and pick it up tomorrow and hopefully fit at the weekend.

    Again, I will update when I get a bit further with it. The proof will be in the testing........
     
  2. gorganl2000

    gorganl2000 Registered User +

    this gives us hope
     
  3. dac69er

    dac69er Super Moderator

    Well the box is in. Selects all gears and feels as expected.
    Only had about 1ltr of gearbox oil so havnt actually run it yet as I don't want to risk any damage.
    I will get some more oil and give it a try. Only thing that I'm a bit concerned about is one of my inner joints is a bit wobbly where it goes into the box. I don't think this is an issue with the box though, I will see how it goes.
     
    Calum122 likes this.
  4. gorganl2000

    gorganl2000 Registered User +

    thanks for the feedback thus far...sounds promising
    with regards to the inner joint, are you referring tot the in-borne joint/cup? Just by thinking about it, i'd take the cautious approach and get it replaced, especially with a rebuilt/new box.
    wobbles and imbalances are not something you want around any rotating mass, it can pass lots of vibrations through surrounding areas and lead to failures especially at high rpms
     
    SKINY and Calum122 like this.
  5. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    Worth trying new circlips on the shaft ends first bud, I had a Micra years back popped the shaft a few times and a circlip fixed it, not to sure but Im near certain you can't buy the inner cup, just a full shaft from Mr T :eek:
     
  6. dac69er

    dac69er Super Moderator

    I fully reconditioned the shafts a couple of years ago. You can get the complete inner joints from febest for about £50.
    The issue isn't the circlip as the shafts won't come out, it just wobbled up/down and side to side more than it should when in place.

    I removed the shafts today and found that the splines had been cut incorrectly on that joint, they were too thin. Obviously never noticed it when I first fit them!!!
    Replaced with a spare joint I had and it's all as expected.

    It now has oil in it so after a put the last few bits on and we have a dryish day, I will take it for a test run!
     
  7. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    So the aftermarket inners where a bit crap then
     
  8. dac69er

    dac69er Super Moderator

    well 1 was, the other one is fine. when i bought them, i must have only happened to look at the one that was decent when comparing to stock. it still did me a couple of years with no noticeable issues, im pretty particular about things so most people would have just fitted them and not worried.

    at the end of the day, aftermarket parts are sometimes not as good as genuine, but at a fraction of the cost, they are usually worth a punt. eventually the supply of decent used inner joints will dry up, so being able to get something new is an option i wanted to try.

    for the most part, i have found Febest parts pretty good quality. i will probably buy another and keep as a spare, will just double check the splines this time ;)
     
    Jay, Calum122, Farley and 1 other person like this.
  9. dac69er

    dac69er Super Moderator

    Update.

    Finally got some time to take the car for a spin. Wasn't great to begin with tbh, but after the oil got round everything it seems to be good :)

    No noises, no crunches and no leaks.

    Didn't go very far, so time will tell whether it is fine under all conditions. Early signs seem promising though.

    Full rebuild wasn't the cheapest option, but at least I know everything is replaced and should do another 20-30 years ;)
     
  10. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    When I done the gt-four I had it up on stands level, once topped up I ran it a bit in 1st ticking over then stopped waited 10 mins then checked the level again :) in fact I cant think of a car I haven't did that with doing clutches etc
     
  11. dac69er

    dac69er Super Moderator

    i was pretty confident it was going to be ok! im going to recheck the level now its been run and the oil has made its self round the box.
    wont be using the car until the better weather, but now i know it works i can fix a few other bits over the next few months so its good to go in the spring :)
     
    SKINY likes this.
  12. Skalabala

    Skalabala Registered User +

    I think I would rather just go for the 6 speed, it loves high rpm gear crunching :)
    Still gathering the info to exactly how to do this conversion. Some say just swap the bell housing or all the insides plus the rear cover.
     
  13. Rev

    Rev Registered User +

    Andrew on the au site says 6 speed are weaker seems quaife have it sorted but for ' delivering a top speed more suited to the needs of competition'.
    This link explains properly https://shop.quaife.co.uk/quaife-toyota-4a-ge-4e-fe-engine-sequential-gearkit but their QKE12E six-speed sequential gearkit package includes a specially strengthened outer gearbox casing and sequential gearchange mechanism' faster to reduce crunching, may be the weakness being experienced with the 6 speed Andrew referred to?
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2020 at 11:02 AM

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