Issue with brakes

johnny_k

johnny_k

Member +
Hows it going everyone?
Iam currently getting my glanza v ready to go back on the road. I've put brand new brakes all round, HEL lines and also rebuilt all of the calipers.
The issue iam having is the rear drivers side calliper will not bleed. All other calipers will bleed fine.
There is no fluid at the rear drivers side calliper so I tracked the line to the front of the car to the proportion valve on the bulkhead.
The line to the very left of this valve is also dry so I tracked this line to the a.b.s pump.

I removed this line from the pump and pumped the pedal but no oil is coming out of the pump. There is oil at the other lines.

The A.B.S pump primes as normal and light goes out on dash.

Anyone experienced this before?
Thanks
John
 
SKINY

SKINY

Lifer
Has to be airlock in the block, hateful thing abs, try using a large syringe on a short pipe connected to the block and draw it through, make sure caps off the fluid bottle and you're watching the level.
The only other advice I can give is bin the abs the kits seem handy enough fitted :)
 
johnny_k

johnny_k

Member +
I'll give that a try and see. If I was to remove the abs system will it pass the Irish NCT I wonder?

Thanks
John
 
SKINY

SKINY

Lifer
I wouldn't be sure about the test bud, up here tho if it's on when it's not meant to be its straight fail
 
S

SWJ

Member
I have heard that the abs pumps can be a bear to bleed, if they get air in them! You could get it to a shop and have them do it, cause they use a power bleeder. Short of that if you want to spend the cash. There is also the Motive Bleeder.
https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits

But you'll need to talk them. It looks like you need the Motive and an adapter for Japanese vehicles. And extra 25 bucks or so. But I don't know how much international shipment of one would cost??? So it might be cheaper to take it to a shop anyway??
 
SKINY

SKINY

Lifer
You can get the above bleed kit here for around 15-25 quid, some have a screw on but we would need the clamp on version, then would there be room to attach it to the top of the bottle?
 
S

SWJ

Member
SKINY said:
You can get the above bleed kit here for around 15-25 quid, some have a screw on but we would need the clamp on version, then would there be room to attach it to the top of the bottle?
Click to expand...
Hmm now we have quid?? A quick check says pounds and Quids are the same thing???

I did not know they had the Motives over there?? That's cool so all we need are "testimonials??" And I have been using mine for years. I had to get one for my first Porsche 944! That car was a true PIA to work on and I could not bleed the brakes, at all! I had to take it to the shop to have the brakes bleed properly!

The bleeder valves are at the highest point in the car ... and air flows up!! They kinda wrapped the drive train around the car and the bleeder valves wound up high! I thought that was bad but when I got my Turbo S ...it was worst?? Much bigger brakes, and ABS and two bleeders on each caliper??? But the Motive had no issues with it!

But (and now I remember why) I did this. The one I got was for European cars, and they have a screw on cap. To use one on my Toyota's, I had to buy the Adapter. And I had to mod the fitting, it comes with one hose and one fitting. So I had to cut the original line and add a fitting (in the hose line) so I could change from a screw on to the cap and clamp thingie.

And with that change I could use it on either car and on the 951 (what it's called.) I never had any issues with bleeding the ABS pump or the brakes. :)
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
I've had a few issues with the brake proportion valve on the bulkhead. Usually leads to a brake imbalance. Would be worth donoring a good one in to see if it helps first.

Failing that you could have a fault in the abs pump. They are a bugger to bleed so the above advice is good.

Jay
 
johnny_k

johnny_k

Member +
Thanks for the replys lads,
Will a proportion valve off an n/a starlet fit? From what I can remember they have an extra brake line going to the valve? Could this extra line just be blocked off?

Thanks
John
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
I'll have a look at a pump later. The ABS and the non-ABS valves have different numbers of ports from memory. Will check the fleet to confirm that at the same time Johnny.
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
Looks like the ABS unit has 4 ports on it and the non-ABS has five.

I'll get a better look at the pump tomorrow, should have a spare floating about the garage somewhere.
 
S

SWJ

Member
You do know ... there might not be any thing wrong with the origin ABS pump?? And if you replace it, you will most certainly need to bleed the system and as such you will be right back where you started, just saying.
 
johnny_k

johnny_k

Member +
Yea I was thinking the same as the abs unit primes as normal and the light goes out on the dash. I tried bleeding again yesterday but no good. I'll have to get some sort of bleeding kit and try and draw the fluid through.
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
Are you getting air through okay?

Wouldn't be the first time I've seen a blocked bleed nipple (sounds all sorts of wrong).
 
SKINY

SKINY

Lifer
Yea whip your nipple out see what happens, you could put a large syringe and a bit off pipe on it too see if you can pull anything through it :)
 
johnny_k

johnny_k

Member +
No fluid with nipple out.
No fluid at first joint before calliper.
No fluid at second joint before calliper.
No fluid for that calliper at proportion valve.
And no fluid out of abs pump for that calliper!
Fluid in every other calliper and they bleed fine.

Abs primes and light goes out.

If it was a stuck valve or dirt in the pump surely it wouldn't prime and the light would stay on?

Any ideas on the best way to get air out of the abs pump?

Thanks
John
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
That's what I mean, if you aren't getting air out the airlock will never clear. Would pop a fresh nipple on (again sounds dirty) to rule it out just.

Oh, just reread that, if you've taken the nipple off entirely and still no fluid then it's ruled out already.
 
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