Spark + Fuel = No Fire?? Help Please!!

Discussion in 'ENGINE' started by Myweegem5, Apr 24, 2019.

  1. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    So I've been told by someone who worked in Toyota that the Map sensor won't cause a non start just won't take acceleration.
    I have now decided to inspect the timing belt as many of you here have pointed out to me.
    I'm just not very confident at doing it as haven't done it before on this engine and I'm afraid of running into more problems with the car on my driveway. Theres also far too much space in and around the engine bay for working with your hands which I love.:D

    Anyway here goes, so I've followed some guides I found, I've disconnected battery, spark plugs, auxiliary belts, moved a few other bits out the way, jacked engine and removed engine mount. It states I need to remove the engine mount bracket too but this looks very awkward to do. Does anyone here know about this?
     
  2. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    Can anyone tell me which is cylinder no.1 - no.4 just so I know for sure.?
     
  3. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    Standing in front of it from left to right, driver to passenger side 1 2 3 4 mate :)
     
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  4. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    Thanks so I've lined up crank shaft pulley indent to "0" on the bottom timing cover, then checked the 4E mark on the cam shafts sprocket was lined up with the dot punch mark on the cam shaft bearing cap but it wasn't.
    The cam shaft valve lifters were loose on cylinder 1 and also on cylinder 4 on the shaft that the distributor runs off but on the other shaft which I believe is the intake cam shaft the valve lifters were loose on cylinder 1 and tight on cylinder 4 like it said it should be in the guide I'm following.

    I tried rotating the crank shaft one turn to see if things lined up any better but they didn't. Even after several turns (7-8) I couldn't get the crank and cam timing marks to line up.
    I've noticed that the timing belt has a nick in it and its inner edge is shredded away with its fluffy deposits built up in and around the timing cover and the pulleys/sprocket.

    So at the moment all this suggests to me like a slippage of the belt has occurred like some here have suggested. I am going to try taking pics 2moro and upload in hope that someone here can confirm that I'm lining the correct marks just to be sure as I can see 2 dot punch type marks on the cam shaft bearing cap near the top so I'm a bit unsure. Hope to get pics up 2moro!
     
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  5. Skalabala

    Skalabala Registered User +

    Waiting for pics :)
     
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  6. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    Lol! Here's the pics of where I'm currently at. I hope to get back to it this eve but I'm a little confused with some tippex mark someone put on the cam pulley before and why there's 2 dot punch marks on the cam shaft bearing cap. If anyone can explain this it would be much appreciated.

    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  7. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    Judging by the above it appears you were all right in thinking it was the timing. I have no crank pulley puller so I'm going to try get one tomorrow so I dont have much hassle as most of the crank pulleys edge is already chipped away from someone else before me. Can anyone tell me which of the marks in pic number 2 I need to line up (A or C) and what the tippex mark (B) is for?

    Thanks for your help so far.
     
  8. Jay

    Jay Admin

    Definitely looks dodgy..

    Right basically you turn the bottom pulley till the grooves on the pulley line up with the 0 mark on the bottom cover. This sets the bottom end to top dead centre.

    It's then time to check the cams. If you look through the 4E hole on the exhaust cam it should line up with that dot on the end cap that you have labelled C.

    On the reverse of the cam gears you should then see two marks that line up with each other to show that the cams are installed correctly.

    If none of this checks out then the timing is out of whack.

    That tippex mark is the give away that someone has been in before you and just manually marked it.

    Texx did a good thread on taking a cylinder head off so you can pick and choose the appropriate diagrams from here: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/commun...al-and-installation-info.100863/#post-1095817
     
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  9. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    Once you've the bottom cover off have a good look round the pulleys and tensioner see what's caused the belt to travel inwards, oil leaks weaken belts over time too, I've seen the same damage too belts from pulleys and tensioner bearings collapsing, while your in that deep be worth doing them too mate :)
     
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  10. Jay

    Jay Admin

    That looks like it's been wearing off something for a while. You can see the threads and worn off belt material around the cover and pulleys. Could find they have dropped a bolt when refitting the belt covers or something more sinister. As Skiny says keep your eyes peeled for something rubbing the belt down.
     
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  11. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    Thanks for the link Jay, that's actually one of the guides I've been using. I did check the cam timing marks were in line with each other and from what I can see there spot on, see pic below. [​IMG]
    I just don't understand why someone before me marked with tippex where they did as its not on the timing marks.

    Jay out of curiosity do you know what the other timing mark is used for at (A)?
     
  12. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    I think maybe the belt feels a bit loose but I hope not to have to have to go looking for parts like new tensioner or replacement oil seals.
    Maybe it was a bolt that nipped the belt where it did and the car was up on 1 Jack stand passenger side and lying down towards the timing cover for some time while doing some earlier jobs and it got some high revs which I guess could vibrate something like a loose bolt into the timing belts path.
    Thanks for the heads up though. I think I smell progress, let's hope. :)
     
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  13. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    I'm now going to get a timing belt, can anyone tell me if a Motor Factors one is good enough and should I need the whole kit-tensioner, idle pulley ect.?

    Also will a 3 jaw puller do the job of removing the crank pulley or does it have to be a crank pulley removal tool?
     
  14. Skalabala

    Skalabala Registered User +

    You only need a puller if the pulley is stuck. Most of the time you just need two levering devices(two old big flat screw drivers) and penetrating.
    As for the cam timing. In your last photo. Of the cam gears matching up. Where is TDC mark and 4E mark when the cams line up like it that photo?
     
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  15. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    Gates belts are probably the best option, you should be able to get the full kit for around 100£ on Ebay
    Pulley removal I knocked up a bit of flat bar with slots to bolt to the wheel, then a nut welded on and a long bolt through it pushing against the crank end, a smaller bolt I use to put in the crank for the long bolt to press on, I'm not a fan of the triple/double prong pullers myself mate :)
     
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  16. Skalabala

    Skalabala Registered User +

    100£ is like R2000 lol can almost buy an engine :p
    On a stock 4E you can buy any brand, they do not break belts. Its wide like two belts next to each other from other cars lol.
    A bolt went through that belt and it did not snap haha
     
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  17. Myweegem5

    Myweegem5 Member

    With my cam shafts both lined up with each other in the above pic I have the TDC mark on the other side of the cam cog also lined up with the 4E on the cam pulley lined up with the dot punch indent on the cam shaft bearing cap marked (C) in one of my earlier pics. Here's a pic of that side of the cam pulley and where the crank pulley timing mark is.[​IMG]
    Thats some handy homesteading SKINY, Im no fan of the 3 jaw puller either its awkward but I got the pulley off, it actually came off by hand turning my 3 jaw puller with a long reach socket to make up the distance on the threads. It then decided to fall and add itself a new missing piece of its inner edge. :confused:

    I've removed the belt and have a spurious timing belt kit ordered for the morning. I think my idler pulley is a bit noisy.

    Skalabala I might be heading your way to pick up one of those yet by sounds of it :)
    But there actually was no loose bolt found in or around the timing belt, I got nothing only the fibers of the shredded belt. So maybe the tensioner was weak and helped the belt slip?
     
  18. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    Yea a weak tensioner or idler bearing would throw the belt off alright mate
     
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