weeJohn
Lifer
I made a simple bracket out of 3mm steel plate, the mounting holes are the same as the original bracket and the big hole is just big enough for the actuator spring section to fit through. Read on if that is not clear, I dont have the measurements of the bracket, I just sort of lined it up where I thought it should go and made a template out of cardboard for it. When I was happy with the template I cut it out of the steel. The bracket I made looked like the one in this photo
Fit the plate onto the turbo using the original actuator fixing bolts.
The original actuator fixing bracket then needs to be cut along the line shown below. This is easily done with a hacksaw.
When finished the actuator should look like this.
Then pass the actuator rod through the plate from the compressor side as shown
Then holding the faces together, mark where the fixing hole needs to be drilled in the actuator, remove it and drill a 5mm to 6mm hole for the fixing bolt.
When done the actuator should look like this.
Then refit the actuator through the plate as before, fit a bolt through the drilled hole to hold the actuator in place.
Loosen the nut securing the rod end and twist the rod and end of the actuator until the rod end fits over the wastegate arm spud, and the rod is square with the arm as shown.
Check the waste gate button in the turbine exit is closed properly. If it is like this it is not.
To ensure the button stays closed, remove the rod end off the spud and turn the rod end securing nut all the way along to the end of the threads. Then turn the end all the way up the rod threads also. Refit the end to the spud and check the button again.
If it is still not closed properly, remove the rod end from the rod and cut about 5mm off the threaded end.
Then refit the end to the rod again and recheck the button. If it is still not closed, remove the end from the rod, cut a few threads off the end of the rod and refit and check again. When correct the button should look like this. Don’t have it so tight that you need to pull the rod to fit it to the spud. It should fit on with only a little tension on the arm.
Once correct, refit the Subaru c clip back onto the wastegate spud to hold the rod end in place.
Fit the plate onto the turbo using the original actuator fixing bolts.
The original actuator fixing bracket then needs to be cut along the line shown below. This is easily done with a hacksaw.
When finished the actuator should look like this.
Then pass the actuator rod through the plate from the compressor side as shown
Then holding the faces together, mark where the fixing hole needs to be drilled in the actuator, remove it and drill a 5mm to 6mm hole for the fixing bolt.
When done the actuator should look like this.
Then refit the actuator through the plate as before, fit a bolt through the drilled hole to hold the actuator in place.
Loosen the nut securing the rod end and twist the rod and end of the actuator until the rod end fits over the wastegate arm spud, and the rod is square with the arm as shown.
Check the waste gate button in the turbine exit is closed properly. If it is like this it is not.
To ensure the button stays closed, remove the rod end off the spud and turn the rod end securing nut all the way along to the end of the threads. Then turn the end all the way up the rod threads also. Refit the end to the spud and check the button again.
If it is still not closed properly, remove the rod end from the rod and cut about 5mm off the threaded end.
Then refit the end to the rod again and recheck the button. If it is still not closed, remove the end from the rod, cut a few threads off the end of the rod and refit and check again. When correct the button should look like this. Don’t have it so tight that you need to pull the rod to fit it to the spud. It should fit on with only a little tension on the arm.
Once correct, refit the Subaru c clip back onto the wastegate spud to hold the rod end in place.
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