Tuning Automatic

Discussion in 'ENGINE MANAGEMENT' started by Rondon, Oct 22, 2018.

  1. Rondon

    Rondon Member

    Alright Folks,

    My Glanza has an auto box due to having arthritis. I'm wanting a piggy back or standalone. The guy at Motorsport Electronics said that he didn't think it worked on automatics. I was considering an emanage but read a lot of negative comments.

    Has anyone tried a piggyback or standalone on an automatic. Any one got any recommendations or suggestions?

    Many Thanks in advance

    Ronz
     
  2. Jay

    Jay Admin

    First things first, what sort of power are you looking to run?
     
  3. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    Plug n play like a blitz or Tom's ecu is most likely your best bet bud, depending on what else your running.

    the ME one that fella ended up getting his money back i read,also read a few of them had issues too, personally now i wouldn't have the e-manage near me, good mates one died not long ago too.
    link would be my only choice id say now IF i carry on with it.
     
  4. Rondon

    Rondon Member

    Yer mate died?
     
  5. Rondon

    Rondon Member

    Sorry to hear it....related to emanage?
     
  6. Rondon

    Rondon Member

    The Glanza I have is stock with S.S exhaust.

    I'm trying to learn more about tuning.

    I have FMIC to fit and air ram induction to fit.

    Was looking the td04 kit and half size rad.

    Any advice much appreciated, 200ish would be good for a start as not forged. It's an automatic.. license....daily driver is an Abarth 595 MTA.

    Cheers

    Ronz
     
  7. Rev

    Rev Registered User +

    Assuming you have a ct9b you have early torque and possible 200hp at your disposal. As I understand it theK1 200v turbo was meant as an upgrade for stock auto but still around 200 hp but initial torque is more 3k-3.5k rather than the responsive 2.5 -3k ct9b torque.
    The K1 principle was power delivery is gradual with this turbo so reduces slipping and helps the life of an auto box. Power wise it extends the peak Hp to about 6800 rpm from stock rpm and some people have around 212HP as well.
    Because the peak power is higher up the rev range you are faster as revs are higher.
    The issue of gradual power seems relevant to the k24 turbo 240 bhp which brings torque on suddenly these kits often say not suited for auto box.
    If you have weaker rods like some Glanza this should be considered also but posts say auto box is slipping around 200 ftlb which is the earliest limit depends on boost and the tune you have.
    Rods permitting a setup to say 212BhP would be worth investigating with an ecu that allow tuning the torque down a bit as well as raising power on a healthy auto box. I will add for city driving its going to be hard to beat the ct9b.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
    SKINY likes this.
  8. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    RIP my mates e-manage Ron lol :)
     
  9. Rev

    Rev Registered User +

    @ skiny the issue you mention is interesting .... do you go lean if the piggy back dies ? This was one reason why I went for bigger injectors with management ; if management fails you generally flood the engine rather than lean it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2018
    SKINY likes this.
  10. SKINY

    SKINY Registered User +

    not sure Rev but it wasn't running right. He is on here the odd time but don't post that often.
     
  11. gorganl2000

    gorganl2000 Registered User +

    like some of the others have suggested, i think you should consider sticking to the ct9 or hybrid ct9 for maybe 180/200bhp on the autobox, as this would keep it responsive---you could probably get away with a little more bhp, but that's another story (i think someone on here or ttgt has done so in the past, you can try a search). You will need to keep your autobox well serviced at those power levels and should do so regardless.
    the td04l option or equivalent sized turbo will push power delivery up the rev range a little and may be more gradual which may be beneficial in putting less initial stress on the autobox, but at 180/200bhp, it may not be the best overall drive-ability

    regarding emanage,,,,i've run the same emanage ultimate since 2007/2008 iirc with absolutely no problems to date...my car is an auto to manual conversion and i've kept the stock auto ecu which is connected to the EMU (piggyback). i know others who run emamage in the past with no issues, once your tuner is able to tune emanage then you will have no issues-------same with any standalone ecu or piggyback you decide to run

    so first thing first, speak to your tuner to find out what they are capable of tuning and speak to various tuners if you have that option---it will give your more choice
     
    SKINY likes this.
  12. Jay

    Jay Admin

    I fitted a Blitz FMIC initially on mine (EP82 GT Auto) and made 144bhp to begin with. That lasted a while so as I could upgrade suspension and brakes then fitted hybrid CT9 (Tongs Malaysia) and made 155bhp at stock boost, the level wasn't reliable due to dips and spikes tbh so I didn't dare run higher boost. Got together a ported manifold, Walbro fuel pump, Blitz decat, Blitz exhaust and Blitz boost controller and started running a solid 1 bar since. Vast difference in fun, would guestimate 170 ish bhp or thereabouts.

    As far as management went I ran a JAM FCC to allow me to eliminate the factory safety fuel cut. So long as I checked air/fuel ratios as I went I felt safe enough. This was replaced when I spotted a SARD plug and play ECU on the auctions for a Glanza. The plugs are the same so I figured it would work okay on the GT. Seems good so far, a bit more aggressive than the stock tune and removed speed cut too.

    You could possibly get away with a TD04 running a bar although IMO the autobox is a limiting factor. They don't like torque or abuse, both of which a TDo4 will provide. I would echo the words above on K1 and K24 turbos. Much more gradual build of power so it's not so traumatic for the automatic :D

    Fuelling can be taken care of with a FCD and adjustable fuel regulator if you don't mind being crude about it but it's probably worth talking to whoever is tuning the car to see what they are happy to work with. No point fitting an emanage if no-one will tune them!

    Link to my auto in case it helps any: http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/jays-daily-lazymatic-gt.6869/
     
    thefalls and SKINY like this.
  13. Jay

    Jay Admin

    Oh and bonus fun fact - the first TDo4 GT in the UK was an auto o_O

    Image(785).jpg
     
  14. thomllee1981

    thomllee1981 Paid Member


    Jay

    is it easier to fit a P&P ecu to a MK1 auto???

    am i right in thinking the MK1 had the same ecu for auto and manual versions??
     
  15. Jay

    Jay Admin

    This is something I've never been able to confirm. From the parts catalogues the ECU's are the same but can you give me the part number of your stock ECU?
     
  16. thomllee1981

    thomllee1981 Paid Member

    give me some time to work out how to get the ecu out. LOL
     
  17. Jay

    Jay Admin

    Few screws either side. Brackets hold it to the underside of the heater box.
     
  18. thomllee1981

    thomllee1981 Paid Member

    will have a look tomorrow, looks simple enough plenty of space on the mk1 to get at it.
     
  19. thomllee1981

    thomllee1981 Paid Member

    well the 3rd screw was a shit to get at!!!

    got a pic of my ecu label though.
     

    Attached Files:

    Jay likes this.
  20. Jay

    Jay Admin

    That's the same part number as a mk1 manual transmission version so I'd figure that a modified mk1 ECU should have the same effects on an automatic.

    Only one way to find out.. cheap way to do it is get a standard ECU from a mk1 manual vehicle.

    The later ECU controlled aspects of the electronic transmission control (PWR mode for example). Enzo confirmed that a manual ECU wouldn't operate these on mk2 & 3 GT EP82 automatics a long time back.
     

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