New member intro & Advice request - Glanza V Auto

Shyam

Fresh Recruit
Hello Gents,

I'm new to the site so will start with a small introduction to get the ball rolling. I love cars, classics and modern classics in particular. Don't want to bore you guys with the details but I have some ability to work on cars however more the older stuff with less of the electronics. My first car was a mk2 fiesta. Swapped the little 1 litre lawn mower engine out for an 1.6 XR engine and box. Nothing amazing but was a fun little car which I drove around for 3 years. Since then. I've had a Renault Clio, BMW 520i e39 and currently drive an Audi 80 Cabriolet 1.8. It's a good car but can't justify the mediocre fuel economy with poor performance. And I've started missing my little fiesta and that go kart feeling! So I had decided to start looking for a hot hatch again which I could use as a daily. Oh, I'm also restoring a W123 280ce which is an ongoing project.

I always liked the Glanza. A 1.3 turbo engine which can go 0-60mph in 7 secs and can still achieve 35-40mpg is impressive even by today's standards. I've seen them around in their few numbers and always had a soft spot for them.

Picked one last week for sensible money from a 70 year old chap named Bob. It was Glanza V Automatic, which had failed it's MOT and had been abused, a couple of scrapes. Very untidy interior. It had failed it's MOT on the following:

Reason(s) for failure
Offside Body has a sharp edge caused by damage door wind deflector damaged sharp edges (6.1.C.1)
Rear fog lamp tell tale not working (1.3.1b)
Rear fog lamp missing (1.3.2a)
Registration plate lamp not working (1.1.C.1d)
Offside Headlamp aim too low (1. 8)
Offside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint dust cover excessively damaged so that it no longer prevents the ingress of dirt (2.4.G.2)
Nearside Rear Shock absorber has a serious fluid leak very soft no oil (2.7.3)
Exhaust emissions carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle excessive (7.3.D.3)
Parking brake: efficiency below requirements (3.7.B.7)
Advisory notice item(s)
Oil leak ()
rear disc corroding
n/s rear tyre wear bars and stepped inner edge

Overall the car was looking very sorry. However it drove well and more importantly, went like stink! Sure, it was a bit rough, suspension sounded quiet unhealthy over the bumps but an honest car with a healthy engine. The car was screaming at me to save her from the abuse of the 70 year old haha.

Anyway, I've never owned a turbo car, and never owned a glanza so would like to ask for some advice:

1. The car is high mileage, has done about 230,000km (143,000 miles), so I'd like to give it a full service to avoid any failure. As well as your standard service (oil change, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter?), what else would I need to consider servicing? Would I need to consider a rebuild?

2. The car is an Automatic and I would have preferred a manual. How hard is it to go from Auto to Manual? What parts would I need to gather for the change? Will add that I was surprised by the automatic experience in the Glanza, still very responsive and not a stupid amount of turbo lag either.

3. Being an import, I'm assuming parts are going to be a pain to get hold of. Any recommended suppliers? I wil need some parts to get it through it's MOT.

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UPDATE: Car passed MOT with only 2 advisers...RESULT

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Bumpers being repaired, should be ready for collection later today. :cool:

Look forward to hearing from you lads(and ladies).
 

Jay

Admin
Welcome to our quiet corner of the net Shyam, hope it proves useful.

Sounds like you have a good mix of previous cars to go on, the V should line up nicely amongst them!

I have to state that the site search function is broken ATM, the link for a google search is HERE if you fancy a bit of reading.

1) Well worth replacing all fluids and filters in case you do any long term damage bud. Schedule is HERE. The only additional thing I can think of is your auto fluid is probably overdue a change. Check the fluid on the end of the dipstick. If it's clear red it's fresh but if it's dark and has a burnt smell to it then get it drained and fresh fluid dropped in. Maintenance is key on these boxes.

2) I personally just enjoy the auto experience, they are a great driving thing. The extra weight over the front axle is actually a bonus in the corners for me. I've an auto GT that's staying auto as long as possible. Conversion bits are HERE if you need them. The bulkhead needs cut to accommodate the clutch cylinder so use someone who you trust.

3) Parts are actually more available now than 15 years ago. The aftermarket has grown to the point where most parts are a few days away. Naturally there are exceptions but for maintenance related items is easy going compared to the early years. Genuine Toyota stock although is dwindling, many decals, trims, panels and model specific parts are discontinued. It'll not be an issue until the breakers dry up though.

Hope that helps with those questions Shyam. Looks like you have a great base to build on there, everything seems stock and standard so that's ideal.

I'd concentrate on the maintenance front first then get yourself happy with the condition of the vehicle (interior/paint/any annoyances) then you can modify to your hearts either content or broken!

Enjoy,

Jay
 

Shyam

Fresh Recruit
Hello Jay,

Apologies for late response, I've been getting my hands dirty all weekend and then been getting behind the wheel in my free time. haha. Thank you for the warm and humble welcome fella.

Haha, yes I noticed from my experience from using the site, I had been using that feature since then.

1) So this coming weekend, I plan to change oil and transmission fluid. I've heard good things about Fuchs 5W-40 so that's in my basket. I am now in search for a transmission fluid. Do Glanza Auto boxes use Dexron 2 or 3? Any recommendations on which transmission fluid to go with? I also plan to replace cam-belt and water pump with the service this weekend.

2) I have to say, the auto experience has definitely grown on me, especially on the daily commute with the traffic. And I am very surprised at how responsive the auto box is and with very little turbo lag..it's literally point and shoot haha. My only concern is when I come to put some upgrades under the hood and squeeze extra power out the engine, how well will the auto box hold up..

3) aah, that is very reassuring to hear. Are there any Japanese websites that offer delivery to UK?

On an additional note, after a weekend of driving, I've noticed my fuel economy is pretty bad, I'm getting around 25-30mpg. Anything I can do to improve this? I imagine it will bump up a little bit when I replace oil and transmission fluid?

The handling on the Glanza is quiet shocking lol. So my current plan is do all the maintenance work, then invest in some coil-overs and front anti roll bar, powerflex bushes and maybe vented disc brakes. I've also read that a castor kit is quiet effective. I would appreciate any recommendations.

After sorting the above, I would like to tune the car to about 160-170hp without blowing the engine/box. I plan to do this with custom manifold, decat downpipe, performance exhaust, and turbo actuator to increase the boost a little. Would I also need to consider piggyback ecu, higher pressure fuel pump and front mounted intercooler? Fuel Cut Defender?

Thanks,
Shyam
 
welcome

that milage sounds relatively decent and in line with what you should see actually
a full tank (10/11 gallons or 40/45 litres) on a stock car should see you around 400/450km if you drive sensibly,,,,if you are on boost a lot, it will be lower.

if you plan to keep it stockish and as a daily, then maybe some "comfy" coilovers like meisterR, the brakes could benefit from some decent pads and brake fluid.

for 160/200bhp, maybe look into a plug n play ecu that is PROVEN to run the specs you plan to or piggyback

becareful with the auto transmission and crazy power.

try a search, lots of information on various power levels and what you can use
 

Jay

Admin
Good to hear you are planning to improve on a few areas Shyam, I'd certainly agree the EP91 isn't the best handling straight out of the box but a few choice mods should see you right.

I'd get 25/30mpg from my auto, the heavier kerb weight and the characteristics of old skool auto transmission sort of limit it rightly.

The only gearbox troubles I've had haven't been caused by power levels. The first box developed a leak and the second was damaged in a towing incident. My friend decided he would try bumpstarting his M3 whilst I was towing him. Muppet.. Mine has been running a hybrid CT9 at slightly over the stock boost so a reserved guess of 150-160 bhp for most of it's time with me (I've driven it approx 120,000 kms over the 9/10 years I've had it).

Outside of the UK based companies (Tuning Developments/Fensport/etc/etc) the likes of RHDJapan carry many upgrades but a few folks import (almost) direct from the Jap auctions via third party agents. The used parts market is fairly fluent with these cars so there's plenty of bits flying about if you know where to look.

Hope that helps,

Jay
 

Shyam

Fresh Recruit
Gorgani2000, Thanks for joining the thread and for the welcome. :)

Yes, I guess it's good for a high mileage car then. I have been looking for coilovers and from what I've read, Meister R's are looking most favorable at the moment. I do plan to keep it stockish, just would like to iron out the handling and make it more safe. Performance wise, I wouldn't do anything too crazy, just manifold, decat and exhaust system and might look at inter-cooler options and essentials.

Jay, that's reassuring to hear that I'm getting correct mpg. I imagine yours has some mods under the hood though? Does fuel economy get effected much with performance mods with these? I imagine because of the weight, theres not too much impact

That's a joke that your mate tried to jump start his m3 whilst a little starlet was towing it along, what a nutter. I hope he reimbursed you lol. Can you tell me what fluid you are using in your auto box? And how often do you change?

Thanks for the sources Jay, I will take a look at them! :)
 
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Shyam

Fresh Recruit
Hi Jay, What differences are you seeing with a hybrid turbo set up? Is it worth it? Did you need a standalone ecu to have it set up properly?

Thanks,
Shyam
 

Jay

Admin
Hi mate, I've used quite a few brands over the years but anything Dexron II friendly should be suitable. I used Redline Racing ATF at one stage which sharpened the changes up nicely but it was expensive.

Due to the small tank I have never really noticed any dip in the MPG after adding modifications. In fact with the manual Starlets I've had the leaner the mixture the more economical they get so tuning shouldn't affect things too badly.

The hybrid CT9 I used (Tongs Turbo) gives better spool and more mid range over the stock unit. I used a JAM FCC to support the extra boost and monitored fuelling with a wideband. Not everyone has the access for this but it worked for me until I found an automatic SARD ECU on the jap auctions. The opportunity was too good to miss so I snapped it up. Meant I could run a touch more boost (whilst still keeping an eye on fuelling with the wideband).

The wheels really suit her. Is she still boost restricted in first gear? Can't quite make the piping out on the hi/lo solenoid..

Jay
 

Shyam

Fresh Recruit
Hi mate, I've used quite a few brands over the years but anything Dexron II friendly should be suitable. I used Redline Racing ATF at one stage which sharpened the changes up nicely but it was expensive.

Due to the small tank I have never really noticed any dip in the MPG after adding modifications. In fact with the manual Starlets I've had the leaner the mixture the more economical they get so tuning shouldn't affect things too badly.

The hybrid CT9 I used (Tongs Turbo) gives better spool and more mid range over the stock unit. I used a JAM FCC to support the extra boost and monitored fuelling with a wideband. Not everyone has the access for this but it worked for me until I found an automatic SARD ECU on the jap auctions. The opportunity was too good to miss so I snapped it up. Meant I could run a touch more boost (whilst still keeping an eye on fuelling with the wideband).

The wheels really suit her. Is she still boost restricted in first gear? Can't quite make the piping out on the hi/lo solenoid..

Jay

Thanks for the info Jay, that's really helpful. What you describe sounds like exactly what I'm after. I'd like to tune the motor to get increased power over a broad wide range while not putting internals under too much stress. Other than the physical bolt ons, it sounds as though some attention is required with set up of ECU/piggyback/standalone. I guess I will need to take some things into consideration as my motor is high mileage. I'm new to the electronics side of things so I hope you don't mind me asking some questions when I get to that bridge. haha.

yes the wheels look great imho although shes begging me for a set of coilovers now. I'm also planning to fit new bushes all around, anti roll bars, panhard rod, and anti lift kit to tighten up the handling.

If you see my first post, you can see a pic of the engine bay when sold to me. There were no hoses connected to the hi/lo solenoid. After seeing pics of standard bay online, I found a couple of hoses in the garage and fitted them on as seen. Does it look wrong? I'm pretty sure I see all three green lights when on hi boost and foot down...

Thanks,
Shyam
 
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