timing belt help
- Thread starter jam35
- Start date
awsome thanx, I might get a pulley holding tool just in case. and already have a 3 leg bearing puller thing. I recon that might get the pulley off. 
I wish I had an impact gun! I rounded a lot of bolts already and had to replace them like said earlier. (Car did 300 miles in 4 years) untill I bought it. I shall flood that pulley bolt thing with penetration fluid and hopefully will come off.
I shall update how its getting on .
I wish I had an impact gun! I rounded a lot of bolts already and had to replace them like said earlier. (Car did 300 miles in 4 years) untill I bought it. I shall flood that pulley bolt thing with penetration fluid and hopefully will come off.
I shall update how its getting on .
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My bad that is the owners handbook. The EP91 workshop manual is on ebay with this link
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Starlet-EP90-Series-FACTORY-WORKSHOP-MANUAL-EP91-Glanza-/252122325822
but is the EP91 repair manual for Chassis and Body ref: RM486E.it states that for the EP91 Engine you should refer to the 4efe Engine Repair Manual RM 298E and 4efe Repair Manual Supplement RM 493E plus other manuals for gearbox, electrics and a Starlet new car features Manual.
dac69er
Super Moderator
awsome thanx, I might get a pulley holding tool just in case. and already have a 3 leg bearing puller thing. I recon that might get the pulley off.
I wish I had an impact gun! I rounded a lot of bolts already and had to replace them like said earlier. (Car did 300 miles in 4 years) untill I bought it. I shall flood that pulley bolt thing with penetration fluid and hopefully will come off.
I shall update how its getting on .
i wouldnt waste your time with penetrating fluid. its more the fact that its bloody tight, its unlikely to be corroded in.
you want to be using a pulley more like this:
a 3 legged puller will just chip the crap out of the edges of the pulley.
Ok Cheers, I seen then for sale, looks pretty handy actually. Ill order one just now then, Because last thing I want is not to have tools for the job once the car is all taken apart.
Abother thing is This holding tool - which is a stick with shorter stick welded on but somehow is very expensive god dammit. Im too scared to use breaker bar and starter method. But if I was to use it. Which way does the pulley spin - clockwise ? SO if I put breaker bar towards the driver and stop it from rotating clockwise with the pulley ?
How do i disable the ignition plz ?
Abother thing is This holding tool - which is a stick with shorter stick welded on but somehow is very expensive god dammit. Im too scared to use breaker bar and starter method. But if I was to use it. Which way does the pulley spin - clockwise ? SO if I put breaker bar towards the driver and stop it from rotating clockwise with the pulley ?
How do i disable the ignition plz ?
dac69er
Super Moderator
yes, the pulley will spin clockwise.
you would want to put the breaker bar in place and face the handle toward the front of the car, but rest it on the ground. turn the car over and the nut will be undone. make sure you hold the breaker bar in place when you do this so it doesnt fly off.
i have never personally done it, but others swear by this method.
best way to disable ignition is to pull the fuse in the engine bay marked EFI. this will disable the ignition and fuel system.
you would want to put the breaker bar in place and face the handle toward the front of the car, but rest it on the ground. turn the car over and the nut will be undone. make sure you hold the breaker bar in place when you do this so it doesnt fly off.
i have never personally done it, but others swear by this method.
best way to disable ignition is to pull the fuse in the engine bay marked EFI. this will disable the ignition and fuel system.
dac69er
Super Moderator
you only need to drain coolant if you are replacing the waterpump, which is a good idea to do.
you dont really need to move the engine anywhere, just get the mount out of the way. perhaps down a touch makes it a little easier to get the bottom pulley off, but its just down to preference
you dont really need to move the engine anywhere, just get the mount out of the way. perhaps down a touch makes it a little easier to get the bottom pulley off, but its just down to preference
dac69er
Super Moderator
you mean the bolt at the top? i just reach from underneath with either a small 1/4" drive ratchet or use a spanner. its 12mm. ive never had any issues getting to it, just get rough arm up past the rear of the alternator and you can get to it. dont try and see it, just feel it and its nice and easy
kl cheers haha its pretty tight for me, i almost rounded it off so i stopped trying and soaked it with WD40 and penetration. Now im away to go down and remove the bottom bolt from under it, do you think that Maybe that will slacken the bolt. (i had not too much problem with power steering tension-er tho.
Would getting engine mount off and lowering it be any useful for access to alternator tensioner ?
Would getting engine mount off and lowering it be any useful for access to alternator tensioner ?
hey,
I went and did what you said and that bolt came loose
Now im stuck - when I align 4E at the top like so
and bottom puley is covered in oil,
is that OK . i can not tell exacly
Anyhow I took the pulley off and the makr on cam pulley is just behind the notch on the engine side so it actually kinda looks like on the manual that was provided on page 1 , so i think im happy about that.
However I was unable to take cam plug seal out and made a mess of it, now taking off intercooler and top cover to get that sucker fixed
1. Do i need seal packer to refit rocker cover seal gasket ( its rubber )
2. how do i remove pcv valve without damaging it and clean it ?
I went and did what you said and that bolt came loose
Now im stuck - when I align 4E at the top like so
and bottom puley is covered in oil,
is that OK . i can not tell exacly
Anyhow I took the pulley off and the makr on cam pulley is just behind the notch on the engine side so it actually kinda looks like on the manual that was provided on page 1 , so i think im happy about that.
However I was unable to take cam plug seal out and made a mess of it, now taking off intercooler and top cover to get that sucker fixed
1. Do i need seal packer to refit rocker cover seal gasket ( its rubber )
2. how do i remove pcv valve without damaging it and clean it ?
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dac69er
Super Moderator
As long as the 4e Mark and the bottom pulley Mark lined up, then I wouldn't worry too much about the ignition timing Mark lining up. Looks about right though, you will soon know if it isn't right
Packer??? Do you mean sealant? If so, some people use it, I never use it and have no issues, as long as you clean the faces well and fit a new gasket.
As for the pcv valve, it's a case of just being careful. Some are really brittle and no amount of being careful will help. Just try and tease it out and see how you go. If you need to replace it, the. It's not the end of the world. If your concerned it might break and you don't want to replace it, just leave it.
Packer??? Do you mean sealant? If so, some people use it, I never use it and have no issues, as long as you clean the faces well and fit a new gasket.
As for the pcv valve, it's a case of just being careful. Some are really brittle and no amount of being careful will help. Just try and tease it out and see how you go. If you need to replace it, the. It's not the end of the world. If your concerned it might break and you don't want to replace it, just leave it.
thanks again.
I tool off crank pulley cos its stupid
So timing belt pulley has a notch and it happens to be right before the dot on the engine, But letter "E" that I can see on the crank timing belt pulley itself it pefrectly straight .
It probs wont matter cos Im away to clean it all up and put cover back on but in what position do the cams have to be ? i have rocker cover open but dunno what to look for
Pics of Oil pump seal and cam below. That is leaky crank and oil seal - can any one confirm please. Would i need to get oil pump or oil seal will do ( if oil pump is it the one with seal on the pump ?
I tool off crank pulley cos its stupid
So timing belt pulley has a notch and it happens to be right before the dot on the engine, But letter "E" that I can see on the crank timing belt pulley itself it pefrectly straight .
It probs wont matter cos Im away to clean it all up and put cover back on but in what position do the cams have to be ? i have rocker cover open but dunno what to look for
Pics of Oil pump seal and cam below. That is leaky crank and oil seal - can any one confirm please. Would i need to get oil pump or oil seal will do ( if oil pump is it the one with seal on the pump ?
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trying to get oil pump pulley off. Holding tool is not working well because pullry is too small.
Is there a good way of getting it off ?
Last thing I can think of is putting old timing belt back on and crank pulley, then use holding tool to secure that pulley to stop oil pump spinning so i can crack it. Would that work ?
Is there a good way of getting it off ?
Last thing I can think of is putting old timing belt back on and crank pulley, then use holding tool to secure that pulley to stop oil pump spinning so i can crack it. Would that work ?
Yes that had worked,
1. Im not sure about seals now. Do i put gasket maker on the seal or just dry or maybe with a touch of oil ? ? (crankshaft front seal , oil pump pulley seal, waterpump seal )
I see in videos people say you use grease on the seal and then slot it in but grease is not gonna help it seal isnt it ? I use grease on the break pads !
2 . oil pump pulley seal is not leaking. should I change it anyways ?
Thanks !!!
1. Im not sure about seals now. Do i put gasket maker on the seal or just dry or maybe with a touch of oil ? ? (crankshaft front seal , oil pump pulley seal, waterpump seal )
I see in videos people say you use grease on the seal and then slot it in but grease is not gonna help it seal isnt it ? I use grease on the break pads !
2 . oil pump pulley seal is not leaking. should I change it anyways ?
Thanks !!!
dac69er
Super Moderator
oil pump pulley seal is normally pretty good, but i would be tempted to change it anyway, so its done.
oil seals, use a smear of grease or oil on them, this stops you ripping or damaging the seal.
have you removed the whole water pump or just the front section with the pulley on? if it is just the paper gasket, if you clean it up well enough, it will be fine, but to be 100% sure, put some gasket sealant on it, but not lots. blue hylomar is good for that, but anything similar will be fine.
if you have removed the whole water pump, a little bit of grease on the Oring will help everything go together without damaging the seal.
oil seals, use a smear of grease or oil on them, this stops you ripping or damaging the seal.
have you removed the whole water pump or just the front section with the pulley on? if it is just the paper gasket, if you clean it up well enough, it will be fine, but to be 100% sure, put some gasket sealant on it, but not lots. blue hylomar is good for that, but anything similar will be fine.
if you have removed the whole water pump, a little bit of grease on the Oring will help everything go together without damaging the seal.
Thanks a lot for help. I have now put it all back together . And started the car up . Ok but the wining sound . I thought it sounds like belt rubbing on the timing cover
So I took off timing cover . Still whining . So now I'm making less tention on timing belt . Any ideas what it could be . Whining sound is annoying . And I even seen smoke after running the car for 3 min . Smoke was from inseide the timing cover in the middle of it . I switched off the engine and checked for damage . No damage visible on both timing covers or any of the belts . No idea !
So I took off timing cover . Still whining . So now I'm making less tention on timing belt . Any ideas what it could be . Whining sound is annoying . And I even seen smoke after running the car for 3 min . Smoke was from inseide the timing cover in the middle of it . I switched off the engine and checked for damage . No damage visible on both timing covers or any of the belts . No idea !
Done
Anyways, thanks for assistance !!! Job now done, I would say it feels better to drive.
The wining sound was due to timing belt being too tight and it actually got really hot and started smoking and smelling a little, I did not damage it tho. After I adjusted tension-er correctly the noise was gone.
Can post my pics and write up if anyone interested. ?
Anyways, thanks for assistance !!! Job now done, I would say it feels better to drive.
The wining sound was due to timing belt being too tight and it actually got really hot and started smoking and smelling a little, I did not damage it tho. After I adjusted tension-er correctly the noise was gone.
Can post my pics and write up if anyone interested. ?
dac69er
Super Moderator
if you got the belt hot enough to start burning it, i would throw it away and fit another belt.
the tension should self tension, so shouldnt be too tight or too loose if you have done it properly and everything is in good condition!?
also, its worth rechecking the base ignition timing after a belt change just to make sure its all spot on!
the tension should self tension, so shouldnt be too tight or too loose if you have done it properly and everything is in good condition!?
also, its worth rechecking the base ignition timing after a belt change just to make sure its all spot on!