Idle Control Valve - Removal and cleaning

dmw_86

Member +
Well, I recently had idle issues (idle speed down to 300~400rpm from a solid 800rpm) and after reading around was fairly certain it was the Idle Control Valve at fault. I first tried cleaning it out to see if poor performance was down to carbon/dirt build up but this confirmed the valve was defective. Anyway, a new ICV was ordered and fitted today and things are back to normal. Problem solved :)

I know this fault does crop up, but saw that the information was limited. It is fairly simple to investigate (and I am certainly no expert) but as I was there I thought it might be useful to make a quick post with some pics for easy reference.

Anyway.

Tools needed:
10mm spanner or socket & wrench
Flat blade screw driver

Located on the left side of the inlet manifold, next to the brake master cylinder. First remove the grey connector.

icv1.jpg
icv2.jpg



The ICV is attached to the inlet manifold by two 10mm bolts. The front is easily accessible (and also holds earthing wires), the back is a little more awkward as it is slightly obstructed by the strut brace, but still easy enough with a 10mm socket.

icvbolt1.jpg

icvbolt2.jpg



Once the bolts are out, remove the hose attached to the base. You may need to fiddle with the hose clip to loosen its grip.

icvhose.jpg



The valve can then be removed from the inlet manifold to the left. An o-ring provides a good seal to the inlet mani so it might need a little wiggle first.

One Idle Control Valve:

icvfull.jpg



Four metal tabs hold the two halves together. I used a flat blade screwdriver to prise the tabs away.

icvtabs.jpg

icvtabloose.jpg



Open carefully, and you will find the following:

I've read that the copper vane thingy (yeah, I know not particularly technical :D ) can break so if it comes out in bits then you'll be making a trip to Toyota!

vane.jpg

vaneout.jpg



A metal cup retains a spring, and holds the axle of the copper vane.

allpartsp.jpg



I used carb cleaner and cotton buds to gently clean the nozzles and other parts. Expect a fair amount of carb deposits! Once all clean and shiny (and free of any debris) re-assemble. I found a pair of pliers or chicken legs were best for reshaping the tabs back over the two halves.

Fingers crossed a simple clean sorts things for you. However, if not, then besides checking other possible causes of a bad idle it might well be a trip to Toyota for a new ICV.

Attached is the EPC diagram for reference.
The Toyota Part Number is: 17630-11050 "Valve Assy, Air"
Price is just under £96 at time of writing.

1708vaccuumpiping.png
 

Aimee

Member +
On sunday i noticed my car was sitting at 400rpm on idle :confused: was going to take it weston performance saturday, this thread may be very useful to me though :) will make the fella read it tomorrow and hopefully your info will sort my car too.
Aimee x
 

PPH

Fresh Recruit
Thanks for good instructions :) I have also very low idle rpm in my Glanza V, I think I have to try clean my ICV also. For temporary solution I tune idle speed from screw on throttle body. I don't know if it is good way to get idle rpm higher?
Does anyone know if idle control valve from 4e-fe fits to 4e-fte?
I think I could find 4e-fe valve from local used parts dealer. I tried to look it from Toyodiy, but for some reason it claims that there is no this part in 4e-fe engines:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_1993_TOYOTA_COROLLA_AE101L-AEMDKW_1708.2.html?hl=17630
I found some picture from 4e-fe engine from net, where I noticed that this part is in that engine also:
http://croom.w.interia.pl/szablon_obrazki/100_0370.JPG
But I'm not sure if it goes also to 4e-fte, because I cannot check part numbers from toyodiy :(
 

Fatman

Member +
The 4efte has an idle speed set screw, it's located under a black cap on the top of the inlet manifold beside the throttle body. Pop off the cap, blade screwdriver to adjust.
 

dekztagtturbo

Fresh Recruit
mine idles at 1500 and when i turn on my lights it goes down,and then squeaks,..i have to have it that high so it dont squeak..
 

AlexGTR

Member +
After cleaning mine, is the copper thing not meant to be connected to the black plastic ring? As mine was all one part. I would be careful when you take it out as i'm sure its meant to be one part.
 

JayJ

Fresh Recruit
My car was idling steady 1100rpm and I opened the ICV to find this:

735445_10151738927329209_1719808507_o.jpg


Because the copper thing is broken the valve is leaking all the time and rises the idle. I made a temporary fix and replaced the small spring with a spring from a ballpoint pen as it's longer, but it's not working very good as the valve is now completely blocked and car almost stalls in some occasions. I'm going to order a new valve tomorrow.
 
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