somthing i noticed, ct9 a/b turbo

taken apart a good few of these turbo's now and have noticed the the compressor wheel on a ct9b(glanza turbo) is bigger than a ct9a(gt turbo) and is also shapped differently.. have also noticed the inner workings, bearings etc are different.. alot of people know that the ct9b(glanza turbo) has an extra exhaust fin but said id put up these pictures of the compressor wheels to show that these are also different

ct9a(gt turbo) compressor wheel on the left and the ct9b(glanza turbo) compressor wheel on the right..


this picture shows a ct9b(glanza turbo) main housing that supports bearings etc.. ull see the bigger gap around the ct9a(gt turbo) compressor wheel in first picture.

ct9a(gt turbo) compressor wheel up against ct9b(glanza turbo) main housing..


ct9b(glanza turbo) compressor wheel up against ct9b(glanza turbo) main housing.. "snug fit"

good discovery pal i have never heard anyone say that the two wheels are of differnt sizes before ! repd for that

ya you always just hear about the extra fin really on the ct9b.. also the ct9b bearings are held in either side by small circlips whera as the ct9a bearings are floating.. the oil chamber between both are different 2.. its fun ripping apart tubbys

never noticed that beofre. i was sure my ct9 and ct9 a compressor wheel looked the same? maybe one has had some work done to it? cut back blades or something?

also, there are many different variants of the ct9, some used on diesels etc. could be the compressor wheel off one of those possibly?

i thought it was common knowledge the internals were different. they have a different setup to the way the bearings are held in.

dac69er said:

never noticed that beofre. i was sure my ct9 and ct9 a compressor wheel looked the same? maybe one has had some work done to it? cut back blades or something?

also, there are many different variants of the ct9, some used on diesels etc. could be the compressor wheel off one of those possibly?

i thought it was common knowledge the internals were different. they have a different setup to the way the bearings are held in.

Click to expand...

ive a ct9a on the glanza and its the same as the one above.. maybe.. the bearings are a bitch to take out on the ct9b, they just fall out of the ct9a once the shaft is removed and also, the ct9a has an slieve bearing in the oil chamber which has holes for bringing oil into the shaft but the ct9b chamber hasnt, shaft is exposed... inlet on ct9b is bigger

ct9b on left

both turbos are indeed stock applications for a glanza turbo and gt turbo but the glanza turbo has a bigger inlet and compressor wheel aswell as an extra fin on exhaust wheel..

http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/lofiversion/index.php/t5378.html

whod f thunk it :O

put this ct9b back together and on the car.. shes pull way better than the ct9a that was on it

I have a ct9b on mine aswell and was trying to find some info about it. Found this thread now so thanks mate.

nice info and pics, thanks for sharing

damn... good info bud... u learn something new everyday

repped

kon

Firstly a big thanks to John for answering all my questions on how to take apart a CT9.
Instead of starting a new thread I thought adding to this one where would be more beneficial.

I presume you have either type of turbo removed from the car. You then:

• 
  Remove the V-band and hammer off the exhaust housing with a few choice blows to blunt parts.

• 
  Take the large "C" clip from behind the compressor housing. you will also have to remove oil lines, water lines, and a blanking plate on the front to be able to fully remove it.

• 
  The compressor housing can now be gently hammered free.

you should be left with this. just the center housing assembly.



See where i have put tippex on the shaft, nut and compressor wheel? this is so that the assembly will be balanced to whatever prior setting on completion. Also count the number of turns it takes to completely twist off the nut on the compressor housing as an extra guide. It is a left hand thread, so be ware (thanks John!). Use two vice-grips to undo this bolt. be careful where the teeth slot into the grooves. Also pick a groove that will not scrape away the tippex. Put some on the tip of the shaft also.

Gt turbo:


Glanza:


As for the glanza turbo, you will have to remove small "C" clips, three in total.

This quick guide should help you disassemble the turbo.

Fantastic thread wondering if you have an accurate scale rule to measure the exhaust wheels dia and exhaust port dia opening for each turbo would be a good addition to the thread.

Good info guys
Vincent, what in the world did you do to the C-clips?
And normal sockets fit so you do not have to use vice grips.
You need to mark the compressor wheel to the core and also the turbine wheel.
Mostly the front nut is statically balanced
Guys just so you know sometimes it is a real struggle to tighten the front nut and get everything lined up again.
When the front nut is at the last bit of tightening the compressor wheel tends to move with it.

Skalabala, I didnt have a tiny "C" clip pliars so i used a long, thin and pointy screwdriver to bend the tabs inwards and then pulled them out using a long nose pliars.

As far as i know, only one out of the three has to be removed, and thats the first one in from the turbine/exhaust housing. If you are reconditioning the turbo, you will get new ones any way.

The collar inside the EP82`s turbo in my mind provides a lot more surface area for heat transfer which may explain as to why they are that bit more robust. Also this collar may slow down the oil aiding heat transfer. What are your opinions?

Vincent-ep91 said:

Skalabala, I didnt have a tiny "C" clip pliars so i used a long, thin and pointy screwdriver to bend the tabs inwards and then pulled them out using a long nose pliars.

As far as i know, only one out of the three has to be removed, and thats the first one in from the turbine/exhaust housing. If you are reconditioning the turbo, you will get new ones any way.

The collar inside the EP82`s turbo in my mind provides a lot more surface area for heat transfer which may explain as to why they are that bit more robust. Also this collar may slow down the oil aiding heat transfer. What are your opinions?

Click to expand...

the collar is needed in the ct9a to hold in the bearing's vincent.. the ct9a's are a better built turbo, the inner oil housing falls apart on the ct9b's...alot of people think they are the same turbo only for the comp wheel is a bit different and the ct9b has one extra blade on the exhaust wheel,couldnt be more wrong... i ran ct9a's at 1bar all day long and not one of them blew.. ct9b's even with their higher flow output dont last at the same boost from experience.... reason why most hybrid turbo makers use the ct9a oil housing etc... its all down to the condition of shaft tho if you intend on rebuilding them yourself as i said yesterday to you.. the comp wheel is balanced to the shaft so you cant use different comp wheels on original shaft unless you get them balanced.. i had 11 ct9's here and out of all of them i could only rebuild 3 myself as the others were too worn, 2 of them are still going strong.. the other blew after 6 months on a 5e at 1bar.. you can swap around exhaust housings no bother but ya cant swap them between ct9a's and b's... if someone has a good ct9b for example but the wastegate is shagged with cracks, they can swap it over to a good exhaust housing from a ct9b without messing with the internals...just that big clamp needs to be removed and the exhaust housing pops off as you explained above..

Cool Vincent
And I also say the ct9a is a stronger turbo.
uses the same bearing design as a K03/K04 which can handle 1.5-2bar for years.