So How Efficent Is My FMIC Really?

Gee

Gee

Member +
So, no more speculation!

Basically, I have full confidance in my FMIC, however part of it is blocked by the crash bar due to it's position. And if I am not mistaken, for the cooler to work properly, the air needs to PASS throught it?

So, therefore I have bought an inlet temp sensor pictured below, which cost me about £5 from Ebay:

th_Inlet1.jpg


Click here to enlarge

So my 2 questions are:

Where do I put the sensor (looks like a tampon for rodents) to get a temp reading?

th_Inlet2.jpg


Click here to enlarge

And what temp's are considered good/safe and what temps would I need to worry about and take action?

Thanks all!
 
TurboDave

TurboDave

Member +
Just as it enters the engine mate on the rubber hose which connects to the Throttle body is the best place imo.

If I was doing it I would undo the jubilee clip and slide the sensor in there and then do the jubilee clip back up so you dont need to cut the pipe.

I wouldnt want to leave it in there though if it comes off your in big trouble :).
 
Gee

Gee

Member +
Hmm..

Anyone got any tips on how to prevent this?

Is the pressure really big at the throttle body then?
 
Monkfish

Monkfish

Member +
Gee said:
Hmm..

Anyone got any tips on how to prevent this?

Is the pressure really big at the throttle body then?
Click to expand...

Only whatever your boost is, but can you really trust something that cost £5 from eBay?

As for mounting options, check my "Water temp sender" topic in the electrical section, GTti posted some very useful links :cool:
 
Gee

Gee

Member +
Monkfish said:
Only whatever your boost is, but can you really trust something that cost £5 from eBay?

As for mounting options, check my "Water temp sender" topic in the electrical section, GTti posted some very useful links :cool:
Click to expand...

Well it only cost £5 because the guy does not need/use it any longer. Looks like an old unit too.

Sensor does not look like it would fly off in all honesty. If I drive off boost, I can still tell what my inlets temps are while in motion, so should be OK.
 
TurboDave

TurboDave

Member +
The point of checking your inlet temps would be when you are on boost not off boost.

I cant see it falling off but I wouldnt want to leave it in there to decay for long.

:)
 
R

Red Hot

Member +
I don't think that’s a high speed sensor gee. So you won't get an accurate reading (or need to keep it at full throttle at 6k for 5 minutes:p. You need a sensor that has a metal casing.

I do agree on the idea that your cooler isn't as efficient as it could be because 10%?(don't know how large the parts is that doesn't get air forced through) doesn't work. Also, hot air travels faster, so the most inefficient part of the cooler has the best flowing properties?
 
Gee

Gee

Member +
Well car is getting mapped on the RR on Tuesday, could get a reading from there, but it wont be nowhere near to what in would be on the street IMO, as air is just blown towards the car with a large fan.
 
R

Red Hot

Member +
How much room do you got between the crash bar and the intercooler?(the crash bar is in front of the cooler?)

Can't you put some aluminium sheetmetal in like this:

 
Gee

Gee

Member +
Unfortunately, there is no such room :(

Thank you for the suggestion thou.

Only other option is to get a bigger intercooler in width.
 
T

tgidavid

Member +
Surprisingly its ok to have some area of the intercooler blocked. The aluminum does a good job drawing heat out of the entire surface covered or not. Think of it like a heat sink on a CPU. Not only is the base portion hot, but the entire heatsink is hot. And blowing air across the top fins will still cool the entire CPU.
 
T

tgidavid

Member +
BTW I would clamp the sensor on the outlet side of the intercooler on the bear metal. That is the temp that you really want to know.
 
Gee

Gee

Member +
I guess there is not danger having it there, but I wanted to see what the temps where going IN to the engine. Wouldnt the inlet be best? Could heat a bit before it got there?
 
R

Red Hot

Member +
tgidavid said:
Surprisingly its ok to have some area of the intercooler blocked. The aluminum does a good job drawing heat out of the entire surface covered or not. Think of it like a heat sink on a CPU. Not only is the base portion hot, but the entire heatsink is hot. And blowing air across the top fins will still cool the entire CPU.
Click to expand...


True true, but, it could be more efficient tho ;)

You can use you sensor to test the following gee:
put it in the intercooler fins, behind the crash bar.
Do some test runs
Put it on a place where you got airfow
Do some test runs

Think that could give an idea, about cooling efficiency at the crashbar.
 
TurboDave

TurboDave

Member +
It is all very good to get a temp sensor etc but it is unnecessary.

Go out and give it a blasting, lean down and feel the intercooler pipe on left where it enters the intercooler and then feel the otherside where it exits the cooler, it should be warm where it enters and cool where it leaves.

Dave
 
GTti

GTti

Member +
TurboDave said:
It is all very good to get a temp sensor etc but it is unnecessary.

Go out and give it a blasting, lean down and feel the intercooler pipe on left where it enters the intercooler and then feel the otherside where it exits the cooler, it should be warm where it enters and cool where it leaves.

Dave
Click to expand...

Well that test is a load of Rubbish.

The intake air running through the pipe will also be conducting heat from it and going into your engine.

Stock black rubber hoses do a good job at absorbing heat which is why it's used. The piping will be warm to touch, but at least you know it's not radiating inside it.

This can't be said for shiny metal rubbish which I should imagine has huge surface emissitivy! (Hence why it'd be cold to touch - heat is transfering to the air inside it) :rolleyes:
 
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