Wiki:Building a 5E-FTE - Some basic info

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This page is a chapter in the book Modification Tutorials.
Original Article Credit: KrissyB, _GAZ_EP85_



Guys , Girls , Sheeps, Cats, Hamsters, Dogs and all alike thinking of going 5e but are not too sure on what you need and what to do. Below is a basic guide.


Firstly and Foremost get yourself a badass 5e, now the 5e does have advantages but also disadvantages. Yes you will get slightly more power and which ever turbo you have will spool earlier also giving you the opportunity to use a larger more fancy setup. However the 5e does not particularly rev high and doesn't like to be revved hard with power usually dropping off alot earlier than in a 4e. A more technically qualified TGTT'er could explain but it's to do with the 5e not being quite square in terms of Bore/ Stroke.


PARTS:

When removing your 4e there are a numerous amount of things that you will need to aquire to fit on the 5e.

1. SUMP: The 4e sump has the oil return which is paramount obviously.


2. OIL PICK UP/ STRAINER: Needs to be used when using the 4e sump as its a different length to the 5e one do not mix and match these. 4e with 4e !!!!!


3. Oil Feed/ Oil filter Plate: Unbolt this from the 4e as it then prevents finding a different oil feed location and making up custom lines. You need to remove the large bolt from the 5e block drill and tap the 5e then fit the 4e one. Here are a couple of pics from my build showing the oil filter housing mod, in which you tap out 6mm holes to hold the housing on. I've seen a few engines without this done, and have had no problems. Some people say you don't need to this and you can hold the whole thing in place with just the big bolt in the middle, you can also hold your wheels on with 3 wheels nuts BUT you dont because it's not the proper job. If your gonna do a 5e conversion why not spend 10 mins and just drill and tap them out, toyota put them there for a reason.






i used 3 allen head bolts to hold the housing on shown here.


4. 4e or 5e Cylinder Head: This has been covered about a million times and now a million and one times. Both can be used here guys it's not really an Issue there is a water way in the 4e head on the Inlet side but thats blocked off by the Manifold and the Gasket. On the 5e its not there at all.


5. 5e Flywheel: The 5e Flywheel needs to be used as the 4e has a different Crank bolt pattern. However Aasco sell 5e Flywheels to fit 4e clutches as they are 212mm as opposed too 200mm on the 5e, as we all know 12mm can make all the difference:p. These Aasco flywheels are uber light and awesome bits of kit.


6. 4e Rocker cover: ensure you rob this as it has the PCV.


We have used cruise valve springs and speedvision one's in all our engines we have done so far, the standard springs are pretty poor esp if your planning on revving her higher than the stock rev limit.


SOME BOTTOM END INFORMATION:

The 5e Pistons are the same size as 4e but its the Rods that are different so when going fully forged as many of you do , ensure you get the correct combo guys.

Then also 5e bearings there are a few companies that supply these, Toga, Top line, ACL, Toyota etc etc. Don't forget your thrust washers also 4e ad 5e are different so beware.

A fully forged 5e with bottom end rebuild kits usually range from 1000 upwards. I bought the following but you guys don't have to do the same.

74.5mm Wosner Pistons
5e Scat H beam Rods and ARP Bolts
Bottom end rebuild kit (Seals, Gaskets everything to renew bottom end)
Cylinder Head rebuild kit ( Everything to renew head)
5e Cam belt Kit
Oil filters
Water pump
Oil pump ( Check if your pump has the seal in it or in the block)
Oil filters
Oil pressure switch
OEM Thrust washers
Top line big end bearings
Top line main bearings
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Headbolts
OEM Locating Dowels

That should sort you out for the time being in regards to the bottom end guys.

You need to ensure that your 5e is correctly rebored , honed and knotched to accept the Rods/ Pistons. Also your crank reground if need be and bearing purchased to suit. Any competent engine builder/ machinist will do this for you and may advice on fully balancing the bottom end depending on your budget and or application.


TIMING MARKS:

When timing up your engine whack it on the 4e marks this has been done many times and works a treat AZE_B used thisd method and got another 50ft/lbs of torque and loads more bhp.


OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE

The demon of the 5e OIL PRESSURE. The easiest and most common thing to do is to remove the valve give it a damn good clean and then remove the circlip and fit a washer pushing the spring furthur down and increasing the Oil pressure. Obviously to much pressure is not good but alot of well built 5e's have failed due to low pressure especially on Idle and also on full chat higher in the rev range. On start up im seeing 6.5 bars worth of Oil presure droppng off to 5 bar @ about 1500rpm when cold on first start up.


PRIMING THE ENGINE

Just another little pointer here and something which in normally overlooked as we all get nervous when its nearly start time. Ensure that everything has been checked and double checked. Remove the king leadand give her at least 5-7 cranks too get some oil around the system. Then plug her back in and start her. Alternatively remove the EFI fuse and do it like this. Observe the Oil pressure light carefully and be sure it goes out, also don't worry about new smells and burning if it's all new funny smells will be present.


Guys this is just a basic guide to get you started, its not a complex guide. once I have some more time i'll include the way in which AZE, GAZ and other 5e people including myself have done it.


HERE ARE SOME PICS OF PP'S BUILD:






5E head being used as it has no water way gasket and is less to go wrong .








Bottom end and Oil pressure releif valve here Guys, before we modified it


Rods and Pistons along with Bolts





Happy driving

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