If you've got a multimeter or have access to one, it should be easy enough for you to check yourself. It would be worth it at least to check the resistance on both the IG Timing and IG Feedback wires before paying someone to have a look. I can't tell you the wire colours, but you should be able to work them out by looking at the wires coming out of the igniter connector. They should connect to the ECU at connector 1 (the big multiplug connector), IGF should be pin 3 and IGT should be pin 22.
Unplug both the bigger ECU multiplug connector and the igniter connector. Then set the multimeter to the lowest ohms setting and probe both ends of each wire in turn. You may need someone to help you with this as it's difficult to be inside and outside the car at the same time. If you've got continuity and testing the right pins, you will get some sort of reading on the meter. If you get a reading of more than 0.2Ω then the resistance in the wire could be interrupting the signal between the igniter and ECU resulting in an intermittant fault. If you see no reading at all, then either your probing the wrong pins or there is a break in that wire between the igniter and ECU, usually a 'wiggle test' of the wire harness will be enough to remake the connection and show a reading on the meter, if you can pinpoint the point of the break, you can just chop that piece of wire out and bridge it back together with some more wire.
When you probe the pins in the connectors, particularly the ECU connector, you need to touch the probes at the front of the pins where they make contact with the component pins, make sure you don't damage the pins with the probes, a paperclip can come in handy here. The wires may not have high resistance, but their connection to the pins could so this needs to be checked.
If your happy with your test results, I would try another igniter and see if the fault clears.
I hope that makes some sense.