Recent content by Brad

i suppose different country's prefer to do different things to get different results.. you guys seem to love FPR's , you probly sell them aswell hey toby ? $$$ alot of the issues we find with the back end is solved with a rear strut brace and shocks , not neceserily the panhard rod.. i've...

the adjustable panhard rod is used to realign the rear axle slightly once the car is lowered,to stop oversised wheels from scraping on the right wheel arch..because of the design of the back end.. personally i don't think they are needed unless your having scraping issues.. when slammed to...

panhard rod does nothing for handling.. braces are excellent for keeping the car nice and tight, but it's more the front swaybar and springs/shocks that determines the adjustable swaybar positions. i prefer a starlet to have a bit of oversteer rather than understeer. so if the car has a...

factory LSD equipped gearboxes use driveshafts of equal length.. so if you look underneath the car and both driveshafts are exactly the same length , you have a factory LSD..

thats interesting , i didn't think they did.. purely for the fact that we have re-positioned 7 CT9 compressor covers , and they just rotated.. some easier than others i must admit , but certainly not to the point where it felt like it was locked into place.. i've always had to grind off the...

good question.. we were talking about that the other day when we fitted the manifold... i can't see a problem in doing that at all , it would probably work and look alot better than having these front mount intercooler pipes coming up, then turning and going back down again with an ugly bend...

alter the position of the compressor cover , not the turbo.. sometimes if the compressor outlet is to high , you'll find that when the new manifold gets put onto the turbo , it won't sit flat because it's touching the compressor outlet.. so just push it down a bit , simple... some CT9...

my apologies... i still don't understand why you take figures from the flywheel , when the dyno is on the tyres anyway... :) in Aust. all our dyno printouts are done at the tyres... the exhaust manifold is the biggest problem.. in comparison , my car with a front mount , intake and...

if your talking about meguiars gold class wax (like we have here) , thats fine on CF mate..

you have to buy new ones because it's not recommended to re-use them.. so just buy the bolts to suit whichever engine you need them for , and your laughin'

fitted one on saturday to an EP82... straight forward swap,no hassles at all... "cut away the turbo" is a load of crap... a stock replacement manifold is exactly that.. if your compressor outlet is too high , just stick a screwdriver handle or something in it , and just lever it down...

yeah , i'm unsure about that figure also... i think it's time to get their dyno calibrated.. wouldn't get near 150 with the stock exhaust manifold,no way in hell... unless it's a hiflow or something , but a stock CT9b at higher boost with around 10.0 AF's wouldn't. must be a highflow if...

yeah , emanage ultimate is supposidly a better unit , never used one tho.. 13.6:1 on idle is allright , but idle is totally different to revs under load... if it was running 10.0 at idle , the thing wouldn't idle smooth, letalone rev lol.. it's not necessary to run rich at WOT , wasting...

interesting.. yeah , we had JAM fcd's when we did the tests on the dyno...

the emanage is a cheap option for higher boost applications, and having the ability to adjust the ignition is ok , but if i was going to spend money on a decent engine/turbo build , i'd spend the extra money for a better standalone ECU that has much better adjustability.. we get the SAFC's...