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Alright so on the VF setup you would be limited to around 1.5bar. So with in mind you can afford a slight bump in C/R. I'd say 74.5mm Wossner flat tops and 1.0mm Cometic HG, about 8.5 C/R Speak to your mapper first, but with ECUs as good as they are now its not an issue. The low compression...

For peace of mind I'd be asking for the head to be checked for flatness by you machinist, or just a couple thou taken off so its perfectly flat. Same with the block. If you are going with the 74.5mm then the C/R is 8.37 using the flat top style. Or C/R is 7.65 with the dished style pistons. If...

There is no real need to run the 1.2mm headgasket. If your block and head will be getting skimmed / decked, the 1.0mm is perfectly fine. Cometic do 1.0mm gaskets, I've got one ready for my next build. The standard C/R is 8.2. Which is low by modern standards. I'd aim a little higher. I have...

Attached.

I've just fitted this setup to a N/a block I am building. Same issue with the bolt hole. A bit of extra sealer and it should be fine. Ideally you want 60-2 trigger wheel for more accuracy, but as there is no bolt on kit for Starlets the whole crank sensor setup can be a bit of a carry on. I'm...

Its something I've thought about aswell, I have a block with no main caps. Looking at them, they aren't snapped off like a conrod would be. However they are not exactly flat either. My machinist has previously said you would need to run a line bore through when swaping them out. It was the...

I run Bosch EV14 injectors. You do need adapters for the fuel rail and also for the multiplugs. For aftermarket ECU.

The easiest way to do the oil feed is by using the FTE oil filter housing. Some exhaust manifolds won't actually fit unless the oil filter is in this position, as opposed to directly on the block the N/a way, so something to watch out for. Again regarding the ARP studs, mine were not cut. My...

I'll check my 4efe oil strainer, not sure exactly what shape it is. As for the knock sensor, it is exactly the same place on all the 4e and fte blocks I have seen. I'll add a picture on Monday. I've had two 4e n/a engines that had knock sensors from standard. Others just have the thread. Its...

Assembling the engine yourself is always an option if you want to. I just did a refresh on my 4efe last week. I normally do diesels. The ARP studs are not required for 300bhp. Although it is actually less expensive to buy the studs over the bolts. Also I would advise that the ARP headbolts can...

With the oil pump, there are two different types, oil seal on block and oil seal on pump. You'll have to check your block and order accordingly. My last maxspeeding rods did not require the block to be notched. Maybe the earlier ones did. Its a very basic task to do anyway. Lastly to fit ARP...

Nice stash haha.

The best would be Pauter. The very best would be the new 148 titanium rods. Picture below. Bargain.. The rest would be Scat, PEC, Maxspeeding. They are all broadly similar if not the same. I've used maxspeeding in a couple of builds as advised by my machinist. I've got another new set to go...

Always used ebay for things like that.

Yes they can be sleeved, Future Motorsports UK do offer this for the 4e blocks.

Worthwhile getting it checked by a machine shop. I have a damaged block aswell that can only be saved by getting it sleeved.

I think you can rule out Wossner, they are nornally stamped with a long number ID number. The Wisecos I had were flat but if you look for pictures of different c/r Wiseco FTE they do look similar. Assuming it is not just generic pictures. Ross pistons used to be quite popular, they are stamped...

They had a closing down sale a good few months ago. I tried to buy camshafts at the time but got no reply.

I like how the pictures are of non Toyotas.

You can get an adjusable panhard rod from flos.ie. I've got an Ultra Racing one on the GT, that is adjustable on the car.