Search results

I have installed a kinugawa actuator on my TD04. It's the same like the MAMBA one. It should work fine. You might have to make a custom bracket or something.

You don't need to bleed the brakes if you only change the brake booster. Just unbolt the master cylinder from the old brake booster and put the new one in place, if you have room to do it. If you change the master cylinder as well, just bleed normally. Some times abs unit gets air and it needs a...

That was it. Problem solved

I found out the the small boot on the starter's positive wire was not covering anything lol. And I had my rear engine mount loose so it must be it, I haven't moved the car because I am installing a new coilover kit. That explains the split second death :) If + touches the ground for a second...

UPDATE I haven't figure it out yet but today it developed a new problem. As I said before, the car drives fine and does this shit only in reverse. Now, if I move let's say on 3rd gear, 5000rpm and go full throttle, and let it go suddenly, it shuts off for a split second and turns on again. For a...

I have disconnected every connector I could think of.. even the alternator! Still the same crap. Won't reverse if I give it some gas with the clutch released. It jerks and tries to die. It's like for a second engine shuts and turns on again. If I insist, shuts off.

I agree to that but I think it would behave like that even when the wheels are jacked up? Or maybe the box is broken and it does that when it takes load? Any ideas? and only in reverse? It makes a lot more sense if it was 2nd, or 3d, or whatever gear, the car is 230hp. But reverse? ? OMG this is...

Here we go, jacked up the front wheels, put in reverse, accelerate , no problems! wtf is this? Once the car is down and try to touch the gas pedal when I release the clutch dies. IN F** reverse!

Checked the wiring is ok. It acts like that and wants to die only when I let off the clutch. Once the clutch is at 3/4 it dies as soon as it hits 2000rpm! I don't understand. Maybe something in the gearbox? Everything electrical is ok, nothing touches nowhere the chassis, no shorts no nothing...

UPDATE. If I put the car in reverse, release the clutch , the car moves backwards fine. Once I touch the gas pedal, it jerks and falls on it's face and tries to die. Eventually it does. Help please..

It drives fine. no problems! When I put in reverse , I move a bit and when it hits 1600-2000rpm the car shuts off! It does it every single time! I've unplugged everything I could think of , reverse valve, tps, speedometer, nothing. If I slip the clutch it moves, if I release it, bang.. dies...

When I put in reverse and try to move, the car dies! 1500rpm, hit the gas. bang.. It started happening 2 days ago out of nowhere! Other than that, it drives fine! Any ideas?

Yes I know they aren't forged but as we all know , the 4efte stock pistons are sensitive to its ringlands. So, I was wondering maybe they are better in some way . Anybody? It must be a reason that someone put them in there don't you think?

I wonder why they put them in there. Perhaps stronger than the oem 4efte?

g13b really? Any other specs? They hold pretty good @ 1 bar with a td04l..

On the bottom of the piston it shows ART . That's all I could see when I was replacing the oil pan. Oh the pistons measure 74mm

I opened up my engine to change a headgasket as it was leaking oil from the lower right corner and I saw this. Can someone tell me what pistons are these, because they aren't 4e-fte stock for sure. See the lower valve pockets? Any ideas?

No need for adapter plates mate. I welded a td04 triangle flange directly to the autobahn's ct9 flange which I was using and I bolted the td04 there. Works perfectly. Keep your ramhorn mani and weld a td04 flange to it. Just see where it sits first and weld it. Then custom make your downpipe and...

As the title says. Looking for a tial external wastegate

Turbo is sold. Thanks