4EFE vs 4EFTE engine block differences for forged engine build.

Djaniero

Djaniero

Member +
daniel_g said:
I would go with 1.0mm or 1.2mm Cometic headgasket.



Mine wasn't line bored. The actual engine failure was detonation (melted pistons) so it is possible that is how the crank cap snapped.

Just a lot of people say it has to be line bored when using studs.

See if your machine shop will do it as I'm told it can be quite a pain to do or get right.
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I was doing some further research and it seems like using the original bolts maybe a lot less hassle. Upgrading the main bolts doesn’t really seem necessary unless running 350bhp +. I don’t think many of my local machinist will be able to line bore better than Toyota did from the factory.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

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Djaniero said:
I was doing some further research and it seems like using the original bolts maybe a lot less hassle. Upgrading the main bolts doesn’t really seem necessary unless running 350bhp +. I don’t think many of my local machinist will be able to line bore better than Toyota did from the factory.
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Interesting. We always think we can upgrade an engine easily, but we always have a thought thought in the back of our heads that the engine came from a factory where everything (usually) is calculated and properly done. At least it was until the year 2000
 
Djaniero

Djaniero

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Frankieflowers said:
Interesting. We always think we can upgrade an engine easily, but we always have a thought thought in the back of our heads that the engine came from a factory where everything (usually) is calculated and properly done. At least it was until the year 2000
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Exactly this @Frankieflowers . I will discuss it further with my engine builder to get his thoughts on the matter. But from I can gather camp dogs and many others have pushed the limits of the 5e bottom end using the oem caps and bolts. My goal is only 300bhp.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

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I think the OEM caps are sturdy enough to manage 300 bhp. Let me know what
Djaniero said:
Exactly this @Frankieflowers . I will discuss it further with my engine builder to get his thoughts on the matter. But from I can gather camp dogs and many others have pushed the limits of the 5e bottom end using the oem caps and bolts. My goal is only 300bhp.
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I think that the OEM cops are sturdy enough to manage 300 bhp.let me know what you decide.
 
Djaniero

Djaniero

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Hey guys,
Just a quick one. What are your thoughts on using uprated valve springs if you plan to leave the stock rev limit in place ?
I’m building a forged 5e and don’t plan on revving past the stock limit.

Thanks
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Djaniero said:
Hey guys,
Just a quick one. What are your thoughts on using uprated valve springs if you plan to leave the stock rev limit in place ?
I’m building a forged 5e and don’t plan on revving past the stock limit.

Thanks
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This is an interesting question to those who have done the valve upgrade. I personally think that if you don’t rev further 7000 and 500 rpm you don’t need to upgrade them. But I did buy the uprated valve kit from America even if I don’t think I will put a big tirbo and rathe higher than 7500 rpm. Why did I buy them then? Everyone said I had to because it was better. Not a technical explanation but I got influenced by people who forge engines.
Princetons I bought Maxpeeding rods because the Australian guys who work on these engines say that they are very good. When I talked to friends in Italy and abroad, they said that they are a cheap product compared to other brands that could fit the engine. So as you can see, it is about different opinions and experiences.
Should I buy a different brand? I don’t know.

To answer your other question the 4efe block is identical to the 4efte.
 
G

gorganl2000

Lifer
Djaniero said:
Hey guys,
Just a quick one. What are your thoughts on using uprated valve springs if you plan to leave the stock rev limit in place ?
I’m building a forged 5e and don’t plan on revving past the stock limit.

Thanks
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if you have a 4efte or 5efhe head, then i'd stick with the oem valve springs
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
gorganl2000 said:
if you have a 4efte or 5efhe head, then i'd stick with the oem valve springs
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Could you please explain why? The 4efte head is identical to the 4efe. The only difference is the valve springs. I already bought the uprated springs, but as for the rods (Maxpeeding rods) I would like to be sure that an aftermarket part will gain safety and stability to the engine instead of making it more vulnerable.
A forged engine has a shorter life, but it should be stronger to hold more power. You have to deal with the gearbox as well, but this is another story. My goal would be to change the turbo to a bigger one with a exhaust manifold built in Sri Lanka to be able to reach 350 hp. Otherwise, it wouldn’t have sense.
If you think that, I currently run a stock engine with a hybrid CT9 modified by a company in Italy that has bigger internals and so 20% more efficiency that produces 206 hp at 1.1 bar. Are used the Starlet solenoid to be able to run 1.3 bar that produces 260 + hp ish.
Obviously stay low because it is enough as I drive the car as a daily.
Everything so far so good since a few years considering the engine was shipped from Japan with apparently 88,000 km past.
A lucky story that continues!
 
G

gorganl2000

Lifer
Frankieflowers said:
Could you please explain why? The 4efte head is identical to the 4efe. The only difference is the valve springs.
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i've read many different opinions on some of the components in and the construction of the 4efe/5efe/4efte/5efhe heads (cams, valve springs, coolant ports, etc)...however, an EPC check may be able to provide more guidance ....what's the stock rev limit on a 4efe ???? Either way, if remaining at the stock 4efe rev limit, then the stock valve springs should do the job.

i stated 4efte and 5efhe heads specifically as i have first hand experience with both operating at the stock rev limit (approximately 7200 rpm)....in my opinion, if someone is planning to keep the stock rev limit, then there is no need to spend money on uprated valve springs and the associated costs...the 4efte/5efhe oem springs/set up is proven to be capable at that level.
 
Djaniero

Djaniero

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Thanks for the input guys.
I was thinking as my current springs are close to 30 years old it would be wise to replace them. However when looking in the Toyota data base the 4efe springs have the same part number as the 4efte springs. I was always led to believe the turbo springs for stiffer ?
 

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SKINY

SKINY

Lifer
Has anyone tried the NA exhaust cam swap in the FTE engine ?
we swapped a few into 3SGTEs over the years, they gave a longer duration than the GTE cam and helped everything flow more smoothly
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
To my knowledge there's two types of standard valve spring:

20241011_121814.jpg

The thinner spring on the left is used in UK spec 4efe and 5efe.

The thicker one on the right is used in the 4efte.
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
gorganl2000 said:
https://www.ukstarletowners.com/upl...ison.gif.10ee9acd34a8b28a3b341ba37b899e09.gif

that has some engine cam information
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Weirdly that conflicts with some of the figures stated by Toyota for the 1996 EP91 4EFE:

20241011_110254.jpg


This was a new engine to replace the 2EFE in the UK, here's a good bit of info from the same UK training manual:

20241011_110403.jpg

You can read it as reasons to pick a 4E over a 2E in the UK market but remember the 4E was already in production in other markets for 6 years at this point so the majority of the improvements also apply to old JDM 4E versus new JDM 4E (ye olde GT versus Glanza debate). Spot the explanation for switching to thinner rods, the change in sump design, and the change in cylinder head coolant port as proof.

TBF there are a few variations of the 4E over the whole decade of production so some markets got different configurations. For example, the UK never got the fancy 100bhp version of the 4EFE that was used in the GI and a few EP85's. We also never got the 85bhp 4EFE used in Japan for the EP91. There's always exceptions to the case so it's best to see what you are dealing with firsthand where possible.
 
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gorganl2000

Lifer
Jay said:
Weirdly that conflicts with some of the figures stated by Toyota for the 1996 EP91 4EFE:
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thanks Jay for that information
nothing is weird anymore about the information floating around on these engines...so many years, so many variants, so much misinformation,,,but we usually find a way to get some accurate feedback along the way
 
Djaniero

Djaniero

Member +
Jay said:
To my knowledge there's two types of standard valve spring:

View attachment 11737

The thinner spring on the left is used in UK spec 4efe and 5efe.

The thicker one on the right is used in the 4efte.
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@Jay do you think the springs listed above from Amayama will be the thicker type springs even though they have the same part number as the 4efe springs?
 
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