4efte bogging/stuttering at low rpm

Badmoon

Member +
Hello friends!

I need some help/opinions on my lattest problem.
I've rebuilt my engine and now it is bogging and stuttering until it gets to around 3000rpm, then it is just perfect no problem throught the rest of the rev range.
This is really bad to me because I drive the car almost everyday and throught traffic and I have to hit the clutch a lot for the car to properly move.

Appreciate your help!

Thanks!!
 
try an engine diagnostic to see if there are any recorded error codes.
you can also check your TPS and MAP sensors/connections
 

Badmoon

Member +
try an engine diagnostic to see if there are any recorded error codes.
you can also check your TPS and MAP sensors/connections
Only have error 42 registered but I always had that error.
All the connections to those sensors seem to be just fine.
My ECU it's a Mine's and it's boosting 1bar with the CT9 turbo. I've tried lowering the boost to 0.7bar and its the same, after 3000rpm all good.
 
taking a stab in the dark, but may be recheck timing marks, distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, ignitor/coil and its grounding, knock sensor connection

do you have the stock ecu that you can try?
there's also a vacuum line that runs from the plenum to the MAP sensor, check for breaks/crimps
did anyone remove the TPS when the engine was down?
 

Badmoon

Member +
taking a stab in the dark, but may be recheck timing marks, distributor cap, spark plug wires, spark plugs, ignitor/coil and its grounding, knock sensor connection

do you have the stock ecu that you can try?
there's also a vacuum line that runs from the plenum to the MAP sensor, check for breaks/crimps
did anyone remove the TPS when the engine was down?
Well that's lots of rechecking to do then. I'll pass the info to my mechanic so he can double check all those things when he got the time.
Yes I still have my stock ECU and the HKS PFC F-CON I used to have installed before buying the Mine's ECU.
The vaccum lines was the first thing I checked with new hoses and the problem persisted.
I don't believe the TPS was removed from the manifold.

This is not the first time the engine was taken off the car but it was the first time that I had this problem. I think all the normal procedures were done this time as well as others.

I also think this is not timing or ignition related as the idle is stable, if I turn on lights and air blower it does not move up or down at all and the engine sounds really on time, it was set to 10º BTDC, it does not fail or skips in any RPM with the car parked.
 

Calum122

Member +
I had similar misfire issues when the king lead got wet and oxidised.

So check the connections on the distributor cap and king leads are free from oxidisation.
 

Badmoon

Member +
I had similar misfire issues when the king lead got wet and oxidised.

So check the connections on the distributor cap and king leads are free from oxidisation.
Did it only happen until 3000rpm then the rest of the rev range was okay in yours?
All this stuff was checked last week when the engine was put into the car again and the mechanic didn't mention anything wrong with the king lead or distributor cap.
 

SKINY

Lifer
But did he remove the cap and leads and inspect them bud ?
I had a very slight misfire on mine, that slight it was only picked up on the dyno by the operator, can see it on the graph. Turned out my king lead and cap where toast
 

Calum122

Member +
The insides of the king lead (where it connects to the distributor + ignitor) had oxidised. Yes it would run lumpy at idle and clear up. Although would jolt under high boost high application high load.
 

SKINY

Lifer
The insides of the king lead (where it connects to the distributor + ignitor) had oxidised. Yes it would run lumpy at idle and clear up. Although would jolt under high boost high application high load.
Exactly same as mine, the lead gave up sat in Jay's yard luckily and the Big Legend lent me a good 1 and cap until mine came from Toyota, think it was about 45£ for both
 

Badmoon

Member +
But did he remove the cap and leads and inspect them bud ?
I had a very slight misfire on mine, that slight it was only picked up on the dyno by the operator, can see it on the graph. Turned out my king lead and cap where toast
Don't know if he checked them, believe so but will tell him to check again. I don't think it is misfiring it just doesn't want to rev as it should and did before the rebuild until it gets to 3000rpm then it revs all the way up just fine.
 

Badmoon

Member +
The insides of the king lead (where it connects to the distributor + ignitor) had oxidised. Yes it would run lumpy at idle and clear up. Although would jolt under high boost high application high load.
Mine doesn't run lumpy at all, actually I've never seen this engine run so smooth and stable at idle as it is right now. Also not jolting at all under high boost/load, it's jolting until it gets to around 3000rpm then its smooth all the way up.
 

Badmoon

Member +
Exactly same as mine, the lead gave up sat in Jay's yard luckily and the Big Legend lent me a good 1 and cap until mine came from Toyota, think it was about 45£ for both
Can you provide me the part numbers for the king lead and the cap so I can get in touch with Toyota here in Portugal? Or should I get them in ebay? It is still all stock material so wouldn't hurt to get new ones anyway.
 

SKINY

Lifer
Can you provide me the part numbers for the king lead and the cap so I can get in touch with Toyota here in Portugal? Or should I get them in ebay? It is still all stock material so wouldn't hurt to get new ones anyway.
Jay should have them on here somewhere Bud, far as I remember there is a push on type and a clip on type.
For all the part numbers I need I use toyodiy.com :)
 

Jay

Admin
From an old thread:


There's two types, boots were used on the plugleads from 1989 until 1991 then it switched to clips holding the leads to the distributor cap. Check which you need before ordering from Toyota as these are pricey.

BOOT TYPE

Part number: 19101-11070
Price: TBC
Pic: TBC

CLIP TYPE

Part number: 19101-11080
Price: £25.79
Pics:

DSC_0016-9.jpg



Contacts should be like this, if yours are worn down or damaged then it's time to change the cap (and rotor arm if required):

DSC_0015-9.jpg


Replacement for any 4EFTE from 1989~1999.

Part number : 19102-74040
Price : £22.07
Pics:

DSC_0010-5.jpg


Prices were accurate at the time but will have moved. Your local Toyota dealer can advise on availability.

Jay
 

Badmoon

Member +
From an old thread:


There's two types, boots were used on the plugleads from 1989 until 1991 then it switched to clips holding the leads to the distributor cap. Check which you need before ordering from Toyota as these are pricey.

BOOT TYPE

Part number: 19101-11070
Price: TBC
Pic: TBC

CLIP TYPE

Part number: 19101-11080
Price: £25.79
Pics:

DSC_0016-9.jpg



Contacts should be like this, if yours are worn down or damaged then it's time to change the cap (and rotor arm if required):

DSC_0015-9.jpg


Replacement for any 4EFTE from 1989~1999.

Part number : 19102-74040
Price : £22.07
Pics:

DSC_0010-5.jpg


Prices were accurate at the time but will have moved. Your local Toyota dealer can advise on availability.

Jay
Thanks a lot mate!!
 
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Badmoon

Member +
Sorry to just answer to the thread now...
New rotor and distributor cap solved this problem. Everything works perfect again.
I also decided to buy a new set of NGK spark plug leads as my old ones were from different engines and some were not in the best shape.
Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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