4EFTE - Engine Worth??

Djaniero

Member +
Hi guys,

I was just wondering if anyone could give me a rough idea how much a complete 4EFTE engine is worth these days?

I had the engine fully rebuilt around 8k miles ago roughly by a well respected starlet guru (pics and proof of build). It’s an extremely strong reliable engine, and can be heard running before I remove it from the car. However number one question….how much would it be worth?
I’m based in the UK if that helps with prices.
Thanks for any info.
 
Hi guys,

I was just wondering if anyone could give me a rough idea how much a complete 4EFTE engine is worth these days?

I had the engine fully rebuilt around 8k miles ago roughly by a well respected starlet guru (pics and proof of build). It’s an extremely strong reliable engine, and can be heard running before I remove it from the car. However number one question….how much would it be worth?
I’m based in the UK if that helps with prices.
Thanks for any info.
in australia, Aud pricing here. idk if its changed much
a base 4efte without a rebuild is worth maybe 2k Aud to 3k aud depending on condition and fully dressed.
a fully forged on of the same type is 6k or so. again fully dressed with paperwork. usually comes with a gearbox too

for instance to repair my starlet with a 4efte as is,

i would have to import one to australia from japan that is 5k or so Minimum landed, then to rebuild it, reseal it, + forge the engine with rods and pistons, springs etc etc etc, clearancing, porting, honing, cleaning, etc etc, would be 20k after all of the work was done including labor.
hence why i went Kswap. you can certainly do it cheaper. but for aussie's the Currency conversion on buying bits, + shipping massively adds to the cost.
 

Djaniero

Member +
in australia, Aud pricing here. idk if its changed much
a base 4efte without a rebuild is worth maybe 2k Aud to 3k aud depending on condition and fully dressed.
a fully forged on of the same type is 6k or so. again fully dressed with paperwork. usually comes with a gearbox too

for instance to repair my starlet with a 4efte as is,

i would have to import one to australia from japan that is 5k or so Minimum landed, then to rebuild it, reseal it, + forge the engine with rods and pistons, springs etc etc etc, clearancing, porting, honing, cleaning, etc etc, would be 20k after all of the work was done including labor.
hence why i went Kswap. you can certainly do it cheaper. but for aussie's the Currency conversion on buying bits, + shipping massively adds to the cost.
Thanks for your response.
I actually didn't realise that the engines were still that expensive. However I can't say I'm suprised as the price of 90s JDM cars has gone through the roof, here in the UK.

I have owned a few hondas in the past = love them - but I didn't know k20 starlet swops were a thing until I recently came across this vid:


Can you tell me whats involved with a k swop and how easy/hard it is to do?
 

SKINY

Lifer
Over here they are 2K shipped in from jdm distro Bro, more than doubled in the last 18 months since Aaron bought his from them at 900
Then you have had yours rebuilt, what all went in to the rebuild ? By todays crazy prices 2.5K should be about the area ?
 
Over here they are 2K shipped in from jdm distro Bro, more than doubled in the last 18 months since Aaron bought his from them at 900
Then you have had yours rebuilt, what all went in to the rebuild ? By todays crazy prices 2.5K should be about the area ?
they are not overly available but easier to get there, uk/ireland area's anyway. we never got them in aus, you have to pay to play here.
 
Thanks for your response.
I actually didn't realise that the engines were still that expensive. However I can't say I'm suprised as the price of 90s JDM cars has gone through the roof, here in the UK.

I have owned a few hondas in the past = love them - but I didn't know k20 starlet swops were a thing until I recently came across this vid:


Can you tell me whats involved with a k swop and how easy/hard it is to do?
not easy. but if you Are desperate enough anything is possible.
ill rough breakdown parts and requirements. costs change with country and labor rates. keep in mind its a desperate swap for me to get the car going, so anything that wont benefit me later will not be used. Hence the Non turbo Aspect.

ECU
i already had the haltech elite 1000, And the ic7 dash and wideband 02 kit, so costs were slightly cheaper for me for this one, but any haltech 1000+ will do the job.
some use K-pro or MSQ ecu's as well

Wiring
i added a brand new Fuseless elite 1500 loom to supplement my PD16 power Distro Module, and fuse/relay removal. Ofcourse you could just stick with a fused haltech /k-pro tucked, etc loom. and no pd16 to cut costs massively.



Engine
Any k20, OR k24. pick one. does not matter which, the difference usually lies in small variations to vtec etc and engine displacement, if you want the nitty gritty, the k24 wins. simple as that, if you wanna go nuts, stick a k24z1 head on the k24a3/2 and make good power. gains are minimally added on the N/a cars.

Gearbox
DC5r gearbox for mega fun, or CL9 / CL7 accord euro gearbox for functionality. either works, difference isnt crazy in a starlet.



Engine Mounting.
starlet has no front Kframe. this is both Very good, and kinda bad.
k series engines fits relatively easy in there, but like all honda and toyota's that are fwd, they are used to 3 mounts, front left, right, and rear

Engine mounting P2,
you will need custom engine mounts, a kit does not exist.



FWD front Hubs
custom machining OR custom driveshafts. pick one.



Bonus Section below.


Weight Reduction.
to offset the larger engine you should displace as much weight as possible from the engine bay, these items should be

Custom coolant overflow Tank Mounted as far back as possible in the engine bay.

battery relocated to Rear Left Tail light section, or atleast behind passenger seat somewhere this offsets driver weight.

Front Wiper bottle swapped for a custom one with pump, and mounted at the Rear Right hand Tail light section of the inside of the car, the Factory Water line runs the whole length of the car around there and can be reveresed to send liquid up front. this corrects weight to the rear, to stop The starlets main weight/crash issue.









BONUS P2
Ktuned shit, buy it all. all of it. its good stuff.
 
Last edited:

Djaniero

Member +
not easy. but if you Are desperate enough anything is possible.
ill rough breakdown parts and requirements. costs change with country and labor rates. keep in mind its a desperate swap for me to get the car going, so anything that wont benefit me later will not be used. Hence the Non turbo Aspect.

ECU
i already had the haltech elite 1000, And the ic7 dash and wideband 02 kit, so costs were slightly cheaper for me for this one, but any haltech 1000+ will do the job.
some use K-pro or MSQ ecu's as well

Wiring
i added a brand new Fuseless elite 1500 loom to supplement my PD16 power Distro Module, and fuse/relay removal. Ofcourse you could just stick with a fused haltech /k-pro tucked, etc loom. and no pd16 to cut costs massively.



Engine
Any k20, OR k24. pick one. does not matter which, the difference usually lies in small variations to vtec etc and engine displacement, if you want the nitty gritty, the k24 wins. simple as that, if you wanna go nuts, stick a k24z1 head on the k24a3/2 and make good power. gains are minimally added on the N/a cars.

Gearbox
DC5r gearbox for mega fun, or CL9 / CL7 accord euro gearbox for functionality. either works, difference isnt crazy in a starlet.



Engine Mounting.
starlet has no front Kframe. this is both Very good, and kinda bad.
k series engines fits relatively easy in there, but like all honda and toyota's that are fwd, they are used to 3 mounts, front left, right, and rear

Engine mounting P2,
you will need custom engine mounts, a kit does not exist.



FWD front Hubs
custom machining OR custom driveshafts. pick one.



Bonus Section below.


Weight Reduction.
to offset the larger engine you should displace as much weight as possible from the engine bay, these items should be

Custom coolant overflow Tank Mounted as far back as possible in the engine bay.

battery relocated to Rear Left Tail light section, or atleast behind passenger seat somewhere this offsets driver weight.

Front Wiper bottle swapped for a custom one with pump, and mounted at the Rear Right hand Tail light section of the inside of the car, the Factory Water line runs the whole length of the car around there and can be reveresed to send liquid up front. this corrects weight to the rear, to stop The starlets main weight/crash issue.









BONUS P2
Ktuned shit, buy it all. all of it. its good stuff.

Thanks a lot for the informative response :cool: . It seems like a lot of work, but then I guess the possibilities are endless with that k20/24 engine and gearbox setup.
What sort of power and torque do you make with your setup?

Over here they are 2K shipped in from jdm distro Bro, more than doubled in the last 18 months since Aaron bought his from them at 900
Then you have had yours rebuilt, what all went in to the rebuild ? By todays crazy prices 2.5K should be about the area ?
Thanks man. Its been a good while since I bought a 4e so was a bit unsure about the prices. I would keep my 4e as spare and its been 110% reliable, but simply don't have the space.
@Djaniero Lift off oversteer much?

Sure do. Tokyo Drift Styleee ;)
 

SKINY

Lifer
It's not that big really tho, make a nice coffee table feature ;)
I wish I hada bought the conversion kit for the 3s swap years ago when I had the chance when I had the Rep and a good 3s sitting there :(
There is another solution to lack of space and its my favourite, don't be a wee hondawanker and keep the 4efte in lol :)
 
Thanks a lot for the informative response :cool: . It seems like a lot of work, but then I guess the possibilities are endless with that k20/24 engine and gearbox setup.
What sort of power and torque do you make with your setup?


Thanks man. Its been a good while since I bought a 4e so was a bit unsure about the prices. I would keep my 4e as spare and its been 110% reliable, but simply don't have the space.


Sure do. Tokyo Drift Styleee ;)
k24a3 will make 202 odd hp, torque is also a huge improvment over the starlets measly amount
my advice is steer clear, drive those 4e's until you cant anymore, then do the swap, overall it is costly as hell in the long run to do it anyway
 

SKINY

Lifer
Just 200ish hp
Hybrid ct9 or tf035 your in that area sure :)
I think we all know my opinion on this lool but at the same time I'm wanting to see the end result, respect the build and efforts but not the brand :)
When I was at Phils helping him with his k swap mrs I made sure I touched no Hondung parts, he was very amused lol
 

Djaniero

Member +
k24a3 will make 202 odd hp, torque is also a huge improvment over the starlets measly amount
my advice is steer clear, drive those 4e's until you cant anymore, then do the swap, overall it is costly as hell in the long run to do it anyway
I can imagine so. If I was going to go to all that effort, I would much rather to k20 turbo an EK9 :cool: . Out of all the cars i have ever owned, that was the one I regret selling the most. Prices for them in the uk have gone crazy at the moment too!:rolleyes:. I'll be sticking with the 5e insteafd for the time being....its makes more financial and logical sense....well until my gearbox decides to give up the ghost lol.
Just 200ish hp
Hybrid ct9 or tf035 your in that area sure :)
I think we all know my opinion on this lool but at the same time I'm wanting to see the end result, respect the build and efforts but not the brand :)
When I was at Phils helping him with his k swap mrs I made sure I touched no Hondung parts, he was very amused lol
LOL @ Phil's misus not allowing you to touch any honda parts. Don't worry bro...I'll be sticking with my original plan to go 5e instead of k20 :cool:
 
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