4efte forged build guidance needed

So ive fixed up all my electricals and am now at the point i can start work on my engine, i have found a local machine shop who i have spoken with today and started planning my build, what i want is to build this engine to take abuse on the track and drag strip and id like to be able to increse power over the years to keep it fun, id be heppy with 300-400hp,

i am going to be doing alot of the work myself with the help of some mechanic friends, the machine shop asked me what i wanted done and i wasnt exactly sure, what he offered was the following

Acid dip
test it for cracks,
check cylinder roundness,
deck it,
bore+hone it,
new oil galley plugs and clean galleys

and replace any core plugs and notch it out to fit the forged rods

He said he could do whatever i want so my question is ,what do i want?

I am in australia and plan on using wossener forged pistons and pec rods, link just because they are available and affordable

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/323165326048

He asked what id like done to the crank and heads also which i could use advice on?

Ive read toyota bearings are the best way to go over ACL or others but im not even sure if they are available, also what headgasket and thickness should i aim for?

Im keen to start purchasing all the parts for this engine but i need to be sure as ill likely be buying from overseas,

thanks again for everyones input
 

SKINY

Lifer
when i was planning on building my gt4 engine the plan was,
block bored decked honed checked and cleaned, head checked for tolerance and skimmed, valves and seals replaced, new oil and water pump, full engine gasket set, crank checked and all bottom end bearings from Toyota, you can get them still no bother. Head gasket i was going to use the steel gasket from the later model gt4 as they can and have been proved to take it.
wouldn't be sure about starlet head gaskets but I've read enough people have issues with some of the aftermarket ones.

should help a bit but ultimately you want to build it to want you need so id say have a good yarn and get to know what all does what with your tuner :)
 

Padders_GT

Member
You might find using aftermarket bearings such as ACL, King etc you might not get the correct oil clearance if you are staying standard.

Toyota do different sized standard bearings. I recently gave them part numbers of the bearings I needed and it was around £350....that was just for the mains!!

Don't forget you might have to grind the block to allow for the forged con rods.
 

Jay

Admin
Yeah, I dont see any red flags with the plans but the toyota bearings can be pricey. You could be fancy and lighten or knife-edge the crank but there aren't huge gains to be had from the endeavour. Still sounds cool though..

So long as it all looks good in there a solid bottom end with forged rods and pistons is a good base to start from.
 

H_D

Member +
The block does not need to notched if you are using PEC rods. I have built 3 engines with PEC rods and none of them needed notching. Also stick to genuine bearings. I would stay under 400hp as wossner piston wrist pins are only rated to 100hp per cylinder and they dont have a thicker wrist pin option.
 

Padders_GT

Member
The block does not need to notched if you are using PEC rods. I have built 3 engines with PEC rods and none of them needed notching. Also stick to genuine bearings. I would stay under 400hp as wossner piston wrist pins are only rated to 100hp per cylinder and they dont have a thicker wrist pin option.

I think it was something ridiculous like £500 for the mains and big end bearings from Toyota. I don't know how they can get away with charging that short of money, crazy.
 

H_D

Member +
I think it was something ridiculous like £500 for the mains and big end bearings from Toyota. I don't know how they can get away with charging that short of money, crazy.

Full set of bearings and thrust washers was approx £250 from toyota
 

Padders_GT

Member
If you want to get the CORRECT journal oil clearance the only way is through Toyota. They are the only ones who supply the various STD sized bearings.

If you are going to regrind the crank then yes, any .25mm will be fine as you can adjust the clearance when grinding.
 
Top