Boost issues

kalibwenm

Member +
Hello all,

As the title states, i'm having some boost issues. My engine is basically stock, with:

- FMIC,
- SARD fpr,
- HKS ssq BOV,
- 8mm HT leads,
- Irridium spark plugs ( heat 6 ),
- Walbrow fuel pump,
- i had the catalytic converter removed.
- 2" exhaust pipe all the way to the back.

With that setup, i used to boost 0.9bar, and sometimes i'll hit 1bar or 0.8bar, depending on the weather conditions, but it's been a while now i've noticed that the power output isn't the same, i mean a stock turbocharged toyota mini-van could keep up with me on the freeway, and yesterday i decided to check all the pipings for leaks, there's no play in the CT9 turbo, it's not smoking, i checked and replaced the vacuum line, and when i took it for a run, i got 0.6bar max.

- Could that be a bad actuator, and how can i check it?

- I remember the mechanic, who worked on my car the last time, was fiddling with the distributor, could he have messed up my timing, by setting it on retard?

- any other possibilities, of what could be causing this?

I would be very grateful for your prompt response / feedbacks, thanks in advance.

Cheers :rockon:
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
sluggish performance and someone fiddling with the distributor does sound like the timing has been altered.

what was the "mechanics" reason for fiddling with the distributor?

you need to get the timing set back to the stock 10 degrees.
 

kalibwenm

Member +
sluggish performance and someone fiddling with the distributor does sound like the timing has been altered.

what was the "mechanics" reason for fiddling with the distributor?

you need to get the timing set back to the stock 10 degrees.

Well, according to him, he had raised the boost, (which is weird, because i don't have a boost controller nor an adjustable actuator) and he was fiddling with the distributor to synchronize the timing to match the new boost level...

That just doesn't sound right to me...does it?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
Sounds like he doesn't know what he is doing. 99% of modified starlets run the standard base setting of 10 degrees ignition advance
 

kalibwenm

Member +
Sounds like he doesn't know what he is doing. 99% of modified starlets run the standard base setting of 10 degrees ignition advance

Yeah, i stopped going there ever since, he even tried to overboost my engine, by cancelling the actuator, and setting the dumpvalve to super hard...but anyway, i've fixed that myself...so how do i go about with checking / setting up the timing?...would i really need a timing light, or it can be done without it?...
 

kalibwenm

Member +
Thanks mate...gonna have it checked out today.

Meanwhile i wanna share my little DIY attempt to raise the boost from 7psi, without a boost controller, which actually works. This was done by tying a stainless tying wire to the end of the actuator arm, where it connects to the wastegate flap, and tie the other end of the wire to the turbo outlet flange, where i tightened it to the point where it allows the actuator to open at halfway only, and after a test run lastnight, suprisingly i was boosting up to 7.5bar :D...now i'm still deciding wether it's a good idea to tighten it a little bit more, so that i can raise the boost to 0.8bar / 0.9bar, or just keep it as it is, a temporary setup untill i get my turbosmart (in-cabin) boost controller...

What do you guys think?...is it safe?...has anyone tried this before?

Cheers :)
 
Thanks mate...gonna have it checked out today.

Meanwhile i wanna share my little DIY attempt to raise the boost from 7psi, without a boost controller, which actually works. This was done by tying a stainless tying wire to the end of the actuator arm, where it connects to the wastegate flap, and tie the other end of the wire to the turbo outlet flange, where i tightened it to the point where it allows the actuator to open at halfway only, and after a test run lastnight, suprisingly i was boosting up to 7.5bar :D...now i'm still deciding wether it's a good idea to tighten it a little bit more, so that i can raise the boost to 0.8bar / 0.9bar, or just keep it as it is, a temporary setup untill i get my turbosmart (in-cabin) boost controller...

What do you guys think?...is it safe?...has anyone tried this before?

Cheers :)

fml :confused:

7.5bar... warp speeds? :drive:

my 2 cents; ditch your homemade and do it properly with an actuator, or at least a boost tap
 

kalibwenm

Member +
7.5bar = KABOOM!!

obviously i made a mistake...i meant to write 0.75bar, and now am at 0.85bar and it's as fast as it was when i first fitted the engie...simply amazing.
 

Rev

Member +
Thanks mate...gonna have it checked out today.
a temporary setup untill i get my turbosmart (in-cabin) boost controller...
What do you guys think?...is it safe?...has anyone tried this before? Cheers :)

I use a door spring as a second spring on the actuator. This works fine mostly if you can look at the boost gauge but there are exceptions you must allow for eg. The wastegate usually opens at 18psi but with recent cold weather I was easily hitting 22psi. Also the most dangerous is if you back off and then try to accelerate hard again the boost can spike and prematurely open the wastegate gate leaving you with less boost than you need for the driving situation.

I haven't used a boost controller or saftey boost cut with this arrangement but from experience what ever the setup you do not want unpredictable boost or sudden power loss especially when overtaking that means you are head on to other vehicles I would say unsafe.
 
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kalibwenm

Member +
hmm...usually i rev-match when i shift, but since yesterday i've noticed the car tends to jerk while shifting (only when driving uphill), so maybe i should take your advice and wait for my boost controller, it's only 2 weeks left before it gets here...
 

Skalabala

Member +
7.5bar makes the engine run backwards and then you go back in time, everyone knows that!
But the problem is to get it to 7.5bar :D
 
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