Can I put standard 1.3 block into my glanza v

darylmc93

Fresh Recruit
Hey guys might be a stupid question but I have a glanza v 1.3 turbo and 2 years ago I blew the piston rings and I started to rebuild it but family things piped up so had to stop half way through so I don't remember what bolts go were all I need is a engine block to get her back on the road but I want to know can I put the standard 1.3 starlet block into it and bolt on the mani turbo and front mount and all onto her or dose it have to be a glanza block ?
 

Jay

Admin
Hi Daryl, sorry to hear of the drama mate but things are looking good.

I dropped an EP85 4EFE straight into a Glanza a few years back. Two things of note - there was no threaded hole for the knock sensor and the where the oil filter housing is bolted to the block there are 3 studs missing. I was in a rush so left the knock sensor loose and just used the big bolt to secure the oil filter housing. Car ran fine for it's time with me (well over a year) with just the code 52 for the knock sensor on. I ran it at .5 bar on CT9, .7 bar on CT9 and .5 bar on TD04 keeping an eye on AFR's with a wideband. Always went well. A UK spec EP91 engine should offer a similar story, some fellas have run them in the past as a stop-gap.

Also dropped a 4EFE into a GT. Engine was from an E11 Corolla so came with the hole for the knock sensor already there. This sorted the code 52 out. Also came with cam positioning stuff on it which I just ignored/removed. It ran on low boost (.4bar on CT9) and achieved 110-ish bhp on the rollers if I remember correctly which is right around where a stock 4EFTE should be.

The differences you are up against are increased compression which will promote knock (and detonation and a dead engine) and the fact the valve springs are weaker. My advice is to in low boost and keep the RPM down.

Jay
 

darylmc93

Fresh Recruit
Thanks for you reply yeah I only wany it to run so I can move it from out side to dry storage starting to rust small bit now but I'm definitely going to look into it more and see if there are any other options or cheaper ways cause here in Ireland it's so hard to fine a glanza block
 

Calum122

Member +
Hi Daryl, sorry to hear of the drama mate but things are looking good.

I dropped an EP85 4EFE straight into a Glanza a few years back. Two things of note - there was no threaded hole for the knock sensor and the where the oil filter housing is bolted to the block there are 3 studs missing. I was in a rush so left the knock sensor loose and just used the big bolt to secure the oil filter housing. Car ran fine for it's time with me (well over a year) with just the code 52 for the knock sensor on. I ran it at .5 bar on CT9, .7 bar on CT9 and .5 bar on TD04 keeping an eye on AFR's with a wideband. Always went well. A UK spec EP91 engine should offer a similar story, some fellas have run them in the past as a stop-gap.

Also dropped a 4EFE into a GT. Engine was from an E11 Corolla so came with the hole for the knock sensor already there. This sorted the code 52 out. Also came with cam positioning stuff on it which I just ignored/removed. It ran on low boost (.4bar on CT9) and achieved 110-ish bhp on the rollers if I remember correctly which is right around where a stock 4EFTE should be.

The differences you are up against are increased compression which will promote knock (and detonation and a dead engine) and the fact the valve springs are weaker. My advice is to in low boost and keep the RPM down.

Jay
Jay, apart from the above mentioned, 4EFTE and 4EFE blocks (and I am purely just looking at the blocks). Any reason why you can't substitute one for the other, replacing everthing with 4efte components.

I was just wondering if the 4efte engine blocks suddenly dried up what could we do.
 
i know on the 5efe/5ehfe blocks the "3 studs" are also missing for the oil filter housing, but the centre bolt will hold it in place fine.....as Jay said regarding the 4efe
for the knock sensor, before you install the 4efe block, you could probably look into drilling and tapping the block for the knock sensor and that would sort your code 52
 

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
Hi Daryl, sorry to hear of the drama mate but things are looking good.

I dropped an EP85 4EFE straight into a Glanza a few years back. Two things of note - there was no threaded hole for the knock sensor and the where the oil filter housing is bolted to the block there are 3 studs missing. I was in a rush so left the knock sensor loose and just used the big bolt to secure the oil filter housing. Car ran fine for it's time with me (well over a year) with just the code 52 for the knock sensor on. I ran it at .5 bar on CT9, .7 bar on CT9 and .5 bar on TD04 keeping an eye on AFR's with a wideband. Always went well. A UK spec EP91 engine should offer a similar story, some fellas have run them in the past as a stop-gap.

Also dropped a 4EFE into a GT. Engine was from an E11 Corolla so came with the hole for the knock sensor already there. This sorted the code 52 out. Also came with cam positioning stuff on it which I just ignored/removed. It ran on low boost (.4bar on CT9) and achieved 110-ish bhp on the rollers if I remember correctly which is right around where a stock 4EFTE should be.

The differences you are up against are increased compression which will promote knock (and detonation and a dead engine) and the fact the valve springs are weaker. My advice is to in low boost and keep the RPM down.

Jay
Hi. I am about to buy a 4efte to swap with a 4efe in a Corolla E11. I was told I can use a 4afe gearbox as it has same resistance to torque as the 4efte. Is that true? If so it would save my money. It will cost me £350 compared to the £700 for a 4efte gearbox. I also need a list with every component I need for a smmoth swap. I will buy the engine with the original fuse box. This will save me labor time. I’m concerned about the loom, wiring and of course gearbox. Thank you
 

SKINY

Lifer
Hi. I am about to buy a 4efte to swap with a 4efe in a Corolla E11. I was told I can use a 4afe gearbox as it has same resistance to torque as the 4efte. Is that true? If so it would save my money. It will cost me £350 compared to the £700 for a 4efte gearbox. I also need a list with every component I need for a smmoth swap. I will buy the engine with the original fuse box. This will save me labor time. I’m concerned about the loom, wiring and of course gearbox. Thank you
Hang on, who is charging you 750 for a FTE gearbox :oops: that my friend is pure daylight robbery, I would avoid them like the plague !!
 

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
Hang on, who is charging you 750 for a FTE gearbox :oops: that my friend is pure daylight robbery, I would avoid them like the plague !!
My friend I’ve been looking for an engine for so long and I found nothing for a complete 4EFTE with gearbox under 2500 pounds. 2000 and €700 in Italy. $1900 in the US. If you can help me find one for a lower price it will make my day!
 

Jay

Admin
Worth asking the question - what are your plans for the car?

We already know the only difference between 4efe and 4efte is how much boost they are happy with. If you're not planning on silly figures the costs shouldn't be too significant.

Also where are you based?
 

SKINY

Lifer
2 engines on Ebay UK 1000£ & 1500£ a few weeks ago, not sure about boxes tho but have seen a glanza box lately for 250£ I think on the UK owners forum (boo, hissssss)it was there a while too
Yea so where are you in the world and what's the end goal
 

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
Worth asking the question - what are your plans for the car?

We already know the only difference between 4efe and 4efte is how much boost they are happy with. If you're not planning on silly figures the costs shouldn't be too significant.

Also where are you based?
My plan is to use it for the daily. My goal was to reach 180 hp. Or whatever doesn’t destroy the engine in a year and doesn’t cost me too much Obviously with the lowest budget. I am currently in Milan in Italy.
 

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
2 engines on Ebay UK 1000£ & 1500£ a few weeks ago, not sure about boxes tho but have seen a glanza box lately for 250£ I think on the UK owners forum (boo, hissssss)it was there a while too
Yea so where are you in the world and what's the end goal
I checked so many times on eBay and there is nothing right now besides these engines sold at £1850 with box or £2500 with the box. £250 discount if I wait 6 weeks. It’s a shop in England. I didn’t find anything else in the UK. If you can point me out some thing cheaper I will make my day.

My goal is to get a decent power around 180 hp for a daily use. I am in Milan Italy.
 

Jay

Admin
Ah, explains the prices you are getting quoted, I can't remember any members based in Italy before so you are probably in a very small minority. That might make the journey more interesting.

Even stock 4EFTE is a lot different to 4EFE - you might find doing the build in stages makes more financial sense and is quite satisfying in the long run.
I'm guessing you have someone willing to take on the mechanical work, although you may require a more specialized tuner for final set-up. Just on that, have you someone lined up to do the electrical work on the loom?

The mechanical side of the build is the straightforward stuff but the 4EFE ECU will crap itself once you apply boost to the equation. It's a choice between splicing bits from the 4EFTE loom into your current 4EFE one to run the 4EFTE ECU or using an aftermarket alternative to handle the boost side of things for the 4EFE ECU.

Be prepared, we are probably going to ask a hundred random questions about your car here because no-one is familiar with an Italian Toyota model :)
 

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
View attachment 5251
Just type 4efte engine into Ebay uk and there are a few
Nice! The thing is that I have to get the wiring, the ECU, loom, manifold, fuse box, turbo and IC. I need everything for the swap. If I buy the engine by itself then I have to find all the other parts and I don’t have the experience to do it. What do you suggest? Thank you
 

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
Ah, explains the prices you are getting quoted, I can't remember any members based in Italy before so you are probably in a very small minority. That might make the journey more interesting.

Even stock 4EFTE is a lot different to 4EFE - you might find doing the build in stages makes more financial sense and is quite satisfying in the long run.
I'm guessing you have someone willing to take on the mechanical work, although you may require a more specialized tuner for final set-up. Just on that, have you someone lined up to do the electrical work on the loom?

The mechanical side of the build is the straightforward stuff but the 4EFE ECU will crap itself once you apply boost to the equation. It's a choice between splicing bits from the 4EFTE loom into your current 4EFE one to run the 4EFTE ECU or using an aftermarket alternative to handle the boost side of things for the 4EFE ECU.

Be prepared, we are probably going to ask a hundred random questions about your car here because no-one is familiar with an Italian Toyota model :)
Your passion excites me. It’s the enthusiasm that makes this a fun and expensive way to spend time!
Let’s start from the car. It’s a Corolla E11 Hatchback. The engine is the 4EThe engine is the 4efe 1997-2000 version. The 86 hp version Basically the last version before they changed the shape of the front lights. I will post a few pictures.
The mechanic is a Subaru expert and he’s done a lot of swapping on those. They produce track custom alpha Romeo cars. They are quite good in my opinion but they have a never done a swap like this without plug and play electrical parts. This is why I was considering buying the 4EFTE version without gearbox but with the entire fuse box. Usually they cut it in Japan. This could help him transfer the electrical parts from one fuse box to the other. I suppose.
About the ECU, you guys should tell me what is best for this operation to save labor and get the engine running with a decent amount of horsepower for a day use. When money will come in the future I will definitely change the full exhaust and turbo and so on to get more power without exaggerating and risking to blow the engine as I will not open it and change pistons etc. what I will demand when I buy the engine is the cylinder compression data.
What I was thinking is what you mentioned about the mapping. There is a mapping genius close by that does call the race cars and it cost €240. What I don’t know here’s what kind of piggyback I should buy for the 4EFTE ECU. Should this be done afterwards and keep the original ECU with original settings? What I’m trying to understand is that it is impossible to map the original ECU. And as you are saying I will not be able to get more than 135 hp from it if I don’t buy a piggyback. If you can clarify this part it will be easier for me to put it in the budget. Thanks
 

Attachments

Frankieflowers

Fresh Recruit
View attachment 5251
Just type 4efte engine into Ebay uk and there are a few
How much can I save if I buy this and I buy all the extra parts missing. Could you make a list for me with prices to help me out and see if it’s really convenient? Buying the full engine for me is a safer option because it all comes attached. I don’t have the experience to find all the missing parts and buy them separately. Thanks
 
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