Electical fire on Motorway!

Blak_Mamber

Member +
Sweet. Good news mate.

Sure is dude. Ill bell you when shes back up n running :)

@Blak_Mamber: good one on finally finding the culprit. i would imagine the starter teeth were totally chewed out and some damage may have also been transferred to the flywheel. that's worth checking too imo. i know it's a lot of work to pull out the trannie and take a look but it's worth it. if this may be too much work, you may at least want to get a bright torch (and maybe a mirror) and a mate to rotate the engine by hand slowly as you peek through the starter hole to check the flywheel teeth.

no point swapping the starter only for it to also be chewed out by the bad teeth on the flywheel..

Hey dude, yeah i was thinking this too, but ill post a pic up of the old one and will check over the flywheel etc.. Just ordered a new motor from camskill, should be turning up asap.

Need to bleed the brakes. Anyone got a tutorial?

Cheers :)
 

dark_knight

Member +
brake bleeding

there are several threads on bleeding brakes but this one is one of the many that will give a general guideline on how to.

here's my general how-to:
[1] jack the car up starting with the farthest wheel. there are 2 schools of thought in that thread but i'd go with starting with the farthest wheel from the brake servo.. :)
for RHD models, this would be rear left --> rear right --> front left --> front right.

[2] clean the area around the bleed nipple using a dray rag. better if you have an old toothbrush to get to the tough-to-reach spots. then use an 8mm ring spanner to undo the bleed nipple - you need just to undo it slightly.. ensure you use a ring spanner, not an open-ended spanner or a pliers :) as once you round it off, you will hate yourself :p

[3] be careful as brake fluid strips paint so you will want to get a clear bottle and clear pipe if possible so that you can see the fluid and air bubbles as you bleed. get some rags to wipe off excess and to keep the place tidy.

[4] have a mate pump the pedal slowly maybe 8 to 10 times on each wheel. on the last pump, have them hold the pedal down as you secure the bleed nipple. this evades air going back into the system, thus the reason you want to have a clear bottle and pipe to see the movement of bubbles in there. also, once you have some old fluid in the bottle, try to keep the end of the bleed pipe under the fluid surface so that it doesn't suck air back in.

!! keep an eye on the reservoir to ensure that the fluid level doesn't drop too low and suck in air from the master cylinder side !!

[5] repeat for each wheel in the order given above and you should be sorted. when done, top up the fluid to the 'MAX' mark. don't overfill. imo, you are still ok if your fluid level is anywhere between half of 'MIN' and 'MAX' and 'MAX'.

hope this helps you somewhat..
 

dark_knight

Member +
bleeding check-list

not a problem mate. just tryna be helpful.. :)
also thought of a basic check-list for this procedure so here goes:

- dot 4- or 5.1 fluid, about 300ml should be sufficient for a complete flush
- 8mm ring spanner
- some wd-40 in case the bleed nipples are 'welded in'
- old rags (absorbent & lint-free if possible)
- old toothbrush
- clear (perspex) pipe (should fit snugly over the nipples to avoid leaks)
- clear bottle (half liter is sufficient)
- a mate to pump the peddle :)
- jack & wheel chocks
- some time and patience

hope i didn't forget anything.. :)
 

Blak_Mamber

Member +
Cheers dude.

If i havnt changed the back brake lines, does that mean i'll just have to bleed the fluid in the front two brakes, which are the only ones im changing the lines for.?
 

Paul_JJ

Member +
Cheers dude.

If i havnt changed the back brake lines, does that mean i'll just have to bleed the fluid in the front two brakes, which are the only ones im changing the lines for.?

As a bit of advice if you bleed 2 wheels then it won't be that difficult to bleed all 4, it's not that expensive on fluid either! It's always good to bleed the whole system as often as possible - say once a year for normal driving or after every track event. That's of course if you want optimal performance from your brakes.
 

Paul_JJ

Member +
not a problem mate. just tryna be helpful.. :)
also thought of a basic check-list for this procedure so here goes:

- dot 4- or 5.1 fluid, about 300ml should be sufficient for a complete flush
- 8mm ring spanner
- some wd-40 in case the bleed nipples are 'welded in'
- old rags (absorbent & lint-free if possible)
- old toothbrush
- clear (perspex) pipe (should fit snugly over the nipples to avoid leaks)
- clear bottle (half liter is sufficient)
- a mate to pump the peddle :)
- jack & wheel chocks
- some time and patience

hope i didn't forget anything.. :)

I think you forgot to start with the rear passenger side wheel -) But for a better picture why don't you make a tutorial with the pictures and thorough instructions?
 

Blak_Mamber

Member +
Cheers Paul. I'll do the lot then, sounds best. Rep'd :)

brand new Starter motor turned up yesterday, ill be fitting that one night this evening. THen its just down to bleeding the brakes and she'll be back on the road :cool:
 

dark_knight

Member +
sticky luck

@Paul_JJ: i did my brakes a long minute back and hadn't started taking pix then. will see if i can scrounge up something though and maybe it can go to the sticky section if there isn't one already.

@Blak_Mamber: glad that things are looking up. all the best when back on the road. rem to take it easy the first few miles, just in case something decides it doesn't want to stay on the car and falls off.. :D
 

Blak_Mamber

Member +
UPDATE

Fitted the new starter motor yesterday. Bled the brakes. Was a productive morning.

Starts fine, runs so much better now all earthed properly. Its sooo quiet when you start it now, sounds amazing. My old starter motor must have been on its lasts legs. Cant beleive how well the car goes at standard boost, really does go well.

Thanks for everyones help on this, always appreicated and couldnt do it without this site :D
 

dark_knight

Member +
sorted!

@Blak_Mamber: glad that all is running great. you mentioned that the car is quiet(er) now.. are you on the stock exhaust..?
i'm sure you are loving the kick of the new starter motor..
 

Blak_Mamber

Member +
Cheers mate. I meant the initial startup when the key is turned is so much quieter, its a silent starter lol.

I have a Japspeed exhaust system, with the bung in the back box, which is still quite loud, however its stupidly loud without the bung in.
 

dark_knight

Member +
bunged

i see.. :p the beauty of nu stuff.. :D
i run without the bung on my exhaust all the time - love going by a row of parked cars and setting off alarms.. :p lol
 
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