external WG on stock cast manifold

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Hey guys,

As you are aware I am having problems with boost creep. I ported the CT9 wastegate last week and thought I resolved the issue. But its back.

Was going to put in a FCD and FPR but having issues with that,

Sooo Im going to put in an external wastegate and TIG up the crack and WG penny in the turbo, which hopefully will cure the creep.

I am going to TIG the EWG onto the stock manifold and have bored a hole into the runner of cylinder 4......Im guessing this wont be a issue as none off the runner are seperately sealed off, so the pressue in the whole mani will be the same?



has anybody else done this with the stock cast manifold?

thanks for your help again ppl :)

Mark
 
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5e colin

Member +
it will work budget tuning :) :) there is no real problem having it there but i would of had it ontop of where it merges so you could of deleted the + inthere for better flow

i dunno if the tig weld will hold on cast ??? welds are so thin i used arc rods for cast when i did it
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Thanks for the reply Colin, Im going TF035 soon so dont really want to spend cash on the CT9 setup, so just trying to get a stable setup for now.

I think the TIG should be ok, Ill just burr into both the steel steam pipe and the manifold until shiney metal is revealed and Ill lay down a few fillets to build up the welds, letting it cool down each time :)

I wish I asked the question of where to put it before I drilled it out :(

cheers
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
dont tig a cast manifold. heat the manifold and the pipe up and then stick weld it. once done. let it cool naturally. will still probably crack, but will give you the best chance.

if your changing the turbo soon the cheapest way would be just to stop putting your foot down!?!? before i swapped out my jam actuator i hit fuel cut when i floored it. i just controlled my right foot for a couple of years before i swapped it out.
 

Skalabala

Member +
You will hang yourself if you try to tig weld cast manifold :eek::haha:
As said. But heat it up real good before welding and heat it gently after welding. Use the correct welding rods for cast iron, normal ones work but crack easy.
Do not let a cold wind breeze blow over it after welded.
If you have a spare scrap manifold then practice a bit on that.
 

MR FAB

Fresh Recruit
cast iron can be tig welded with the right filler rod ;),,,but theres a process to it heat etc and the way it cools down
 

5e colin

Member +
i trew my 1 in a bucket :)

marco get a metal bucket and fil up a quarter with coal set it alight when it glows start welding then trow the mani in the bucket and fill up the rest of that bucket with fine ( dry ) ( not a problem where you are ha ha ) sand and let cool down over 24 hours it will cool down sooo slow it will never crack again
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Thanks for the replies all :)

So went down to the local welding shop to see if they had any tips for cast. Turns out they have rods for welding cast. So bought a few and welded on the flange for the gate

:)

Few pics

Flange welded on with normal tig rods



area all cleaned







Tacked together



welded



gate on :)



And not a crack in sight...................YET lol
 

Jay

Admin
That's a really neat looking job!

Have you put it in place to check it clears the radiator & hose? I've seen a few clearance issues with various set ups in the past is all.

Might it be worth adding a brace to support the wastegate just as a precaution too mate. There's a bit of extra weight to consider but it could be unnecessary hassle if you're only thinking temporary.

Jay
 

weeJohn

Lifer
Thats a real nice job you did there, but I cant help thinking it will be problematic due to the fact it is basically on the runner of #4 cylinder and not at the collector.

Some gasses will pass up that runner when #4 cylinder is not in its exhaust stroke and pass out the wastegate when it is opened. But gas flowing that direction will make a pressure barrier that will hamper gasses passing down that runner during #4 cylinders exhaust stroke. I think this could lead to some burnt gasses not being pushed out, which can lean out the fresh mixture entering the cylinder and prevent it burning correctly.

That means there will be excessive heat in that cylinder and that can lead to piston failure, as happens with the restriction in the runner already on higher boost. Short term it may work ok, I dont know how well it will regulate boost, but long term I think it may kill your engine.

Nothing would make me happier than this to prove me wrong, I love a bit of "Russian engineering" and the work looks top notch, but if it does work after testing, I would consider getting another stock mani and fitting the wastegate right on the collector point.
 

MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
@ Jay - Cheers bud, I measured it all up when I had my tubby off porting the internal wastegate, so misses the rad hose by a few cm's

@ Colin - Took me an absolute age to get it to that point :( MIG'ing is a much faster process, but if you want to get similar results I just turn up the amps and turn down the wire speed so its kind of spray arc'ing and move a little faster during your runs :)

@John - As it turns out it is on a spare manifold. I am kind of concerned at what you said now. I did think at the time I wonder if it would cause some sort of restriction, but then thought that deleting the + would be a problem too, so decided to go where it is now.

There is another stock manifold for sale on the AUstarlet forum so might just pick that up and put it in the correct place. For the sake of $30 (15-20quid) and the price of a stainless steel flange, I might as well do it right and safe.







cheers
 
http://www.toyotagtturbo.com/forums/showthread.php?105430-Customer-Project-Nik-4e-fte-EP91-Glanza

seeing as how good your diy manifold looks...maybe you could consider taking it a step further when your other stock mani arrives
i'd suggest you port the runners, especially #3
also, if u had the time and tools, i don't know if this is even possible, but maybe cut out the top of runners 2 and 3 (the area between the exhaust flange and collector) and replace both with pieces of carved pipe like what you used to make the WG with (steam pipe i assume)...kind of make the stock mani a more free flowing unit like the JAM manifold---something like how the runners look in the tread above
instead of having the oem unit's two sunk areas on runners 2 and 3 like in the pic below
http://www.tercelreference.com/tercel_info/component_library/4efte_exhaust_manifold_1.jpg

with your WG in the collector area...i'd assume it would all work very well

may take some skill and time though and would still need to ensure the "replacement" pieces at runners 2 and 3 dont hinder you from screwing up the manifold to the head

oh well, just a thought
 
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MarcoGTTurbo

Member +
Hey Gorgan,

Already done that last week lol! That manifold is on the car at the minute. Once I get this other manifold I can take a few days to get it right.

D234F7CC-2FDD-461E-9411-B6D0166CBB9A_zpsihvfytf5.jpg


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Not seen that first thread before, looks interesting. Might sit down with a potta tea and have a browse :)

Cheers
 
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