Gearbox/clutch????

Paul-GlzV

Member +
this is pissin me off an need2 know. car is stickin in 1,2,3,4(mainly 1,2) when comin down gears an grindin on full throttle shiftin up, reverse is also a no go most of the time it'll grind it's nuts off tryna go in an thats at idle :confused:.

wat wud be possible causes?
1. low on oil
2. too heavy a grade of oil
3. clutch pressure or friction plate gone?(it's an orc 309 was in abut 2k ago)
4. gearbox bearings?
5. linkage prob?

all advice much apprecited
 

Paul-GlzV

Member +
was bought 2nd hand wit 80% left on friction plate an rest lik new as u'd imagine? and to be fair it doesn't see a hard life cars only runnin around 170-180hp
 

corofin12345

Member +
was bought 2nd hand wit 80% left on friction plate an rest lik new as u'd imagine? and to be fair it doesn't see a hard life cars only runnin around 170-180hp

sounds like selector but could b wrong... if u hold down clutch pedel for a few seconds does it go into gear then with no hassle..?
 

Chris@CCM

Member +
those type of clutchs r like that abit dude my orc draged abit and my os gilken in the silvia did too but on the up shift there were fine
 

Paul-GlzV

Member +
those type of clutchs r like that abit dude my orc draged abit and my os gilken in the silvia did too but on the up shift there were fine

i know wat u mean chris the odd time when i'm at the lights an in 1st an pedal rite to the floor it's still kinda bitting an tryin to move
 

Paul-GlzV

Member +
sounds like selector but could b wrong... if u hold down clutch pedel for a few seconds does it go into gear then with no hassle..?

usually i wud come on an off pedal a few times then it wud go in no prob. i check selector wit engine off wit an without clutch engaged an it literally falls in2 gear
 

12345678

Member +
i know wat u mean chris the odd time when i'm at the lights an in 1st an pedal rite to the floor it's still kinda bitting an tryin to move

try bleeding the clutch mate, i've had to do it a few times

EDIT: deffo give this a try, just realised you have just fitted it and i have had to do it every time but once when changing clutchs/gearbox's in starlets
 
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Paul-GlzV

Member +
try bleeding the clutch mate, i've had to do it a few times

EDIT: deffo give this a try, just realised you have just fitted it and i have had to do it every time but once when changing clutchs/gearbox's in starlets

now that u mention it i hav bleed be4 an solved the prob for a while. good man i'll giv it a go an keep u posted on the outcome

rep to all :rockon:
 

Paul-GlzV

Member +
still no joy wit this unfortunately, gonna start savin the pennies for a orc repair kit :( £300 i didn't wanna be spendin. thanx 4 the help every1
 

rmsnoel

Member +
Before u spend £300 check everything else. My thrust bearing collapsed and it gives all the simptons your getting. Doubt thats the problem, but you should check that the clutch is pushing out the slave cylinder piston enough to push the clutch arm thing enough to release the clutch if thats makes sense. When u push in the clutch the arm on the gearbox moves abit over 10mm on mine although u could measure yours and someone elses to compare. Its free to check that before you spend £300.

Also in america when the clutch cylinder starts to wear out instead of buying a new one they buy a longer piston for the cylinder on the gearbox, it costs $15 and fixes the problem for another 50k miles
 

rmsnoel

Member +
To sum that all up get a measuring tape and measure how far the arm on the front of your gearbox moves when an assistant presses your clutch pedal to the floor. Then measure on someone elses GT to compare.

The americans also use that $15 part I mentioned when they fit a heavy heavy clutch, sounds like your thing too. I'll find the link.
 

rmsnoel

Member +
http://www.speed-source.net/products/pushrod.htm


This items falls under the classification of “dirty little problem solver”.

Many people have found that aftermarket clutches, especially those with heavy pressure plates, make complete disengagement of the clutch difficult.

This makes gear changes difficult and may make the transmission grind when shifting from neutral. This clutch slave cylinder push rod is ¼” longer than stock and is made from CNC turned 303 stainless steel.

This slightly longer shaft puts the slave cylinder piston further back in its bore, thus allowing a longer stroke and more disengagement. Installation is simple, and does not require bleeding the clutch.
(Although recommended.)

The Toyota version fits most transmissions, including MR2, Camry, Celica, etc.

Extend your rod!
 

350ep70gr

Member +
http://www.speed-source.net/products/pushrod.htm


This items falls under the classification of “dirty little problem solver”.

Many people have found that aftermarket clutches, especially those with heavy pressure plates, make complete disengagement of the clutch difficult.

This makes gear changes difficult and may make the transmission grind when shifting from neutral. This clutch slave cylinder push rod is ¼” longer than stock and is made from CNC turned 303 stainless steel.

This slightly longer shaft puts the slave cylinder piston further back in its bore, thus allowing a longer stroke and more disengagement. Installation is simple, and does not require bleeding the clutch.
(Although recommended.)

The Toyota version fits most transmissions, including MR2, Camry, Celica, etc.

Extend your rod!

What he said...^^^^ and your problem will disappear.
Reped!

Chris
 

Paul-GlzV

Member +
thanx lads i'll giv this a try 1st for all it is. beta than spendin £300 on somethin i mite not need.:drive:

rep for all
 
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