Glanza V Ep91 TD04 turbo conversion

Minns_ep91

Fresh Recruit
Hi all, first post on this forum so bare with me!

ive recently bought a half finished glanza, im a beginner to a lot of this have a basic understanding of how it all works but that’s about it so explain it fairly basically, no parts for the CT9 remain, this is the build so far and what it’s got fitted:

- TDO4 turbo
- I believe it’s the stock td04 actuator but unsure
- braided oil feed
- oil return
- coolant lines in and out
- eBay mani
- eBay downpipe
- lambda sensor removed and blanking bolt in
- RX8 injectors
- forged engine 10,000km ago
- walboro fuel pump
- braided fuel lines

I know some of these aren’t ideal like the eBay mani, however I’m trying to finish it with what I’ve got seems a waste to start from scratch.I’m not looking for crazy crazy power, just looking to reliably manage and get the most out of what ive I know externally gated is better but for now it’s not financially an option

main questions are:

do I need a specific actuator to control boost such as hks and where is best to buy one?

I’m aware I can get a full link ecu kit, however, is there an alternative way of ecu management? Been told FCD and RRFPR, also had blue emanage mentioned, apexi etc,

basically loooking to achieve 200-220hp with what I’ve got, looking for a fairly reliable way of achieving that, don’t need to be tuned up and powered up to be smashing 300bhp.

any help or advice appreictaed

josh
 

Djaniero

Member +
yO Josh,

Welcome to the fold.
The mods you listed above sound like a good foundation for your power goals.
These threads may help you in regards to mounting the actuator.

https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/62858-how-have-you-got-your-actuator-mounted-td04-people/

https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/44401-hks-actuator-with-td04/

I'm running an external wastegate setup so unsure as to the best way to mount a stock or hks actutor. Hopefully one of the other members can advise further.

I hate to be that guy, but ditch the ebay mani and get a WEPR one or similar. The ebay ones are made of cheese and will crack and snap sooner rather than later. I ran both mild steel and stainless stainless steel ebay manifolds, both braced and they still cracked. I learnt the hard way in the end and eventually bought a WEPR kit. Never had an issue since and really well made bit of kit.
If you cannot afford a new mani, post up on the starlet Facebook groups. Usually used ones can be bought cheaper on there.

Fuelling wise, some mappers prefer to stick with oem injectors, while others decide to go with the rx8 yellow ones. FCD and RRFPR is crude, but tried and tested. That being said, emb can be bought pretty cheaply these days so again speak to your mapper to see what they can do for you.
Failing that, just run the car below fuel cut...td04 at 0.7-0.8 bar is still fun on the streets (get the fuelling checked or a wideband to keep your eye on things)...until you have the funds for a piggyback or standalone unit...whichever takes your fancy :cool:
 
Last edited:

SKINY

Lifer
Welcome along :)
Plenty of information on here Bud you won't need to look anywhere else.
My plan for when I put my tf035 kit on is a sard fpr, fcd and a wideband checked with a few fuel runs by the Legend :) eventually I will go link or ecu master ecu, in Northern Ireland the starlet folk have a very low opinion off the e-manage ecu range, lose maps, fight with the factory fuelling are a few things I've been told. No experience with them myself tho.
 

Minns_ep91

Fresh Recruit
yO Josh,

Welcome to the fold.
The mods you listed above sound like a good foundation for your power goals.
These threads may help you in regards to mounting the actuator.

https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/62858-how-have-you-got-your-actuator-mounted-td04-people/

https://www.ukstarletowners.com/topic/44401-hks-actuator-with-td04/

I'm running an external wastegate setup so unsure as to the best way to mount a stock or hks actutor. Hopefully one of the other members can advise further.

I hate to be that guy, but ditch the ebay mani and get a WEPR one or similar. The ebay ones are made of cheese and will crack and snap sooner rather than later. I ran both mild steel and stainless stainless steel ebay manifolds, both braced and they still cracked. I learnt the hard way in the end and eventually bought a WEPR kit. Never had an issue since and really well made bit of kit.
If you cannot afford a new mani, post up on the starlet Facebook groups. Usually used ones can be bought cheaper on there.

Fuelling wise, some mappers prefer to stick with oem injectors, while others decide to go with the rx8 yellow ones. FCD and RRFPR is crude, but tried and tested. That being said, emb can be bought pretty cheaply these days so again speak to your mapper to see what they can do for you.
Failing that, just run the car below fuel cut...td04 at 0.7-0.8 bar is still fun on the streets (get the fuelling checked or a wideband to keep your eye on things)...until you have the funds for a piggyback or standalone unit...whichever takes your fancy :cool:
Hi mate, thank you for the response!
Il take a look at those threads when I’m home from work cheers!

i can completely understand where you’re coming from with the mani, am looking into a RAM one on tuning developments, but if that’s the case I may as well go EWG as they all seem to come with that option and include a screamer pipe, so would just need to be a case of purchasing an EWG actuator to get it running I take it? And spot weld the penny on the IWG?

As it stands I only have the RX8 yellows and no oem so hopefully that’ll work

as I say I’m unsure kn which route to go down for management, ideally standalone.. I’m in no rush to drive it so what I don’t want to do is spend money on the FCD and RRFPR way of doing it with a wideband, If it’s going to be wasted money if I do end up going the standalone route later on if you get me?
 

Minns_ep91

Fresh Recruit
Welcome along :)
Plenty of information on here Bud you won't need to look anywhere else.
My plan for when I put my tf035 kit on is a sard fpr, fcd and a wideband checked with a few fuel runs by the Legend :) eventually I will go link or ecu master ecu, in Northern Ireland the starlet folk have a very low opinion off the e-manage ecu range, lose maps, fight with the factory fuelling are a few things I've been told. No experience with them myself tho.
Hi mate

thanks for the welcome!

appreciate the insight on what you’re doing, my plan was to use ME221 as I’ve heard good things, stand-alone and can download base maps to pass you by whilst you save for a proper tune, il have to do my research on the forums
 

Djaniero

Member +
Hi mate, thank you for the response!
Il take a look at those threads when I’m home from work cheers!

i can completely understand where you’re coming from with the mani, am looking into a RAM one on tuning developments, but if that’s the case I may as well go EWG as they all seem to come with that option and include a screamer pipe, so would just need to be a case of purchasing an EWG actuator to get it running I take it? And spot weld the penny on the IWG?

As it stands I only have the RX8 yellows and no oem so hopefully that’ll work

as I say I’m unsure kn which route to go down for management, ideally standalone.. I’m in no rush to drive it so what I don’t want to do is spend money on the FCD and RRFPR way of doing it with a wideband, If it’s going to be wasted money if I do end up going the standalone route later on if you get me?
No worries man. Happy to help.

Exactly that. If you go with an EWG mani, you just need to get the wg welded on your td04 and buy an external waste gate with your desired spring.
I personally hate the screamer noise - maybe alI’m getting old lol - so mine screamer pipe is plumber back into the exhaust.

If you’re in no rush just go stand-alone. I had an ME221 but was unable to get the car started on with the oem trigger setup. You will need a crank trigger wheel with the ME221. Unsure if that’s the case for the link and ecu master though.
Emanage Ultimate has been working great for me for over a year with no issues.
 

SKINY

Lifer
Hi mate

thanks for the welcome!

appreciate the insight on what you’re doing, my plan was to use ME221 as I’ve heard good things, stand-alone and can download base maps to pass you by whilst you save for a proper tune, il have to do my research on the forums
There is another forum, it's a disaster tho trying to get an answer to a question or even getting the admin team to get back to you, loads of good information on it too but this is the No1 site worldwide
The me221 had a load of issues and they went quiet the last I heard
The fcd/fpr method has been tried and tested for years, as long as your fuel/air is good you should be good, going by what I've seen others do.
 
As it stands I only have the RX8 yellows and no oem so hopefully that’ll work

as I say I’m unsure kn which route to go down for management, ideally standalone.. I’m in no rush to drive it so what I don’t want to do is spend money on the FCD and RRFPR way of doing it with a wideband, If it’s going to be wasted money if I do end up going the standalone route later on if you get me?

in my humble opinion, if you are using the stock ecu, with FCD and rrfpr...you may have some issues with such larger injectors...from a quick glance online those are rated between 400/430cc,,,,stock injectors are 295cc....potential fuel/tuning issues without a piggyback or standalone
 
in Northern Ireland the starlet folk have a very low opinion off the e-manage ecu range, lose maps, fight with the factory fuelling are a few things I've been told. No experience with them myself tho.
i've used emanage ultimate (emu) since 2007/2008, with 295cc, 360cc, 460cc, 565cc injectors...5e engine with ct9/td04l/vf series/other turbos ...no real issues or drama (knock on wood)...never lost a map...by nature, a piggyback will have to "fight" with the stock ecu, as its altering the stock ecu signals...but once tuned, everything should be ok.
my tuner hates EMU/piggybacks but was able to tune it properly every time, over the years.
Emanage Ultimate has been working great for me for over a year with no issues.
similar experience to this member

granted a piggyback/standalone should be obtained based on a discussion with your potential tuner and your budget,,,some people are more familiar/comfortable with setting up and tuning certain ECU brands, and you'll get a better job overall---the most expensive and capable ecu is useless if the tuner doesn't know how to program it.

now in saying all of that, i'd suggest that when you can, you get the standalone ecu if you have the budget for it---Link has some good reviews in the UK, NI, Ireland and surrounding regions based on the feedback on these sites
 

SKINY

Lifer
i've used emanage ultimate (emu) since 2007/2008, with 295cc, 360cc, 460cc, 565cc injectors...5e engine with ct9/td04l/vf series/other turbos ...no real issues or drama (knock on wood)...never lost a map...by nature, a piggyback will have to "fight" with the stock ecu, as its altering the stock ecu signals...but once tuned, everything should be ok.
my tuner hates EMU/piggybacks but was able to tune it properly every time, over the years.

similar experience to this member

granted a piggyback/standalone should be obtained based on a discussion with your potential tuner and your budget,,,some people are more familiar/comfortable with setting up and tuning certain ECU brands, and you'll get a better job overall---the most expensive and capable ecu is useless if the tuner doesn't know how to program it.

now in saying all of that, i'd suggest that when you can, you get the standalone ecu if you have the budget for it---Link has some good reviews in the UK, NI, Ireland and surrounding regions based on the feedback on these sites
Yea Bro this is what I mean lol, hated here rated everywhere else lol. Most tuners here will hang the phone up when you mention them
 
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i suspect in this day and age,,,piggybacks are relics and frowned upon by most.
i think it was a decent tuning unit and reasonably priced option for me in 2007/2008....i'd certainly not buy a new EMU and accessories in 2022, for that money go standalone, the prices are very competitive nowadays

PS but if a cheap used EMU with all the sensors and specific ep91/82 harnesses pops up, it may be useful for a mild project build, and even to learn some tuning skill yourself....if your tuner doesn't like it, stay far from it regardless :D
 

Minns_ep91

Fresh Recruit
Yea Bro this is what I mean lol, hated here rated everywhere else lol. Most tuners here will hang the phone up when you mention them
Sorry for the delay in reply. I’ve come up with a huge list and am unsure what’s overkill and what’s not..
- ram horn mani v band
- tial 38mm v band external waste gate
- TD fpr
- aem wideband
- blitz boost control (although been told with link ecu you don’t need the boost controller?)
- civic rad
- link monsoon ecu

is this overkill? I’m aiming for 250-260 bhp

on a side note, a friend of mine has offered me a zisco mani with CT12 turbo, with an ewg and screamer pipe.. for £600.. how much of a loss in power would I be sacrificing for this setup? As I understand it would eliminate a large amount of my list making it cheaper and quicker to finish, but would also mean changing the turbo and suffering less power
 

Djaniero

Member +
Sorry for the delay in reply. I’ve come up with a huge list and am unsure what’s overkill and what’s not..
- ram horn mani v band
- tial 38mm v band external waste gate
- TD fpr
- aem wideband
- blitz boost control (although been told with link ecu you don’t need the boost controller?)
- civic rad
- link monsoon ecu

is this overkill? I’m aiming for 250-260 bhp

on a side note, a friend of mine has offered me a zisco mani with CT12 turbo, with an ewg and screamer pipe.. for £600.. how much of a loss in power would I be sacrificing for this setup? As I understand it would eliminate a large amount of my list making it cheaper and quicker to finish, but would also mean changing the turbo and suffering less power

I don't think the above is overkill at all for your power goals on a forged engine. At least then, you have a future proof setup should you want to change further down the line. Depending on how confident the tuner is, they maybe able to yield closer to the 300bhp mark. EBC is not necessary with most standalones. The oem hi lo boost button could be wired in to work with the link, along with a mac 3 port boost solenoid.

I'm sure others will chime in about td04 vs ct12

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/ct12b-or-td04.70233/

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/ct12-vs-td04l.64231/


I haven't seen anyone running a ct12 for a while. I'm guessing it would give you a quicker spool in comparison to td04, where as the td04 would spool up later but give a bigger punch. TD04 is cheap as chips should it ever need replacing also.
IMO for your power goals I would stick with TD04....old turbo tech now, but its tried tested and works on the 4e.
 
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