GT/Glanza Auto Box Questions

Kalpesh

Member +
My GT Auto box is well overdue an oil change, and I'm looking to syphon out the old oil from the dipstick tube.

I should be changing the sump gasket and filter but I'm put off by the £85 price quoted from my local dealer especially when most of the older oil will be held in the torque converter.

I'm curious to hear from Autobox owners past & present on your own procedures in changing the ATF, the brand of ATF fluid you've used, and your go to place for a new sump gasket & filter.

Has anyone flushed all the ATF fluid in one go?

What's your views on using LubeGard Platinum?

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-113/LUBEGARD+Platinum+High+Performance+ATF+Protectant

Thanks

Kalp
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
rather than wasting your money on snake oil, you would be far better off changing the oil properly including the filter. some filters can be cleaned and re-used, so worth looking into that option.

it is false economy trying to do things the way you suggested. the only time i would suggest doing that is if you wanted to really flush the system. you could suck the oil out, replace with fresh. run the car for a bit then dump the oil, change the filter and fill with fresh again.
 

Jay

Admin
I'd base the decision between full atf flush and simple drain and fill on the vehicles previous maintenance. In some cases the swarf in old atf can be promoting friction, especially if the oil has never been changed. To completely remove this can have an impact on gearbox operation.

I've always used Toyota for genuine parts so can't comment on the aftermarket filters and gaskets. As far as the gasket goes make sure it's a cork one. Filter can be cleaned if you are not fussed on the cost of replacement.

Jay
 

Kalpesh

Member +
Many thanks for your replies

The car has been used within the family and I can not recall the ATF being changed at all since purchase.

Due to health reasons (I'm a Paraplegic) I haven't driven the car for the last 5 years. So I'm treating the car as everything needs to be looked at.

The car has been stood for the last 8 months and I'm slowly getting it mechanically sound to pass an MOT, my brain is 5 steps ahead of what my body is currently capable of and I'll get there in the end.

Ill drain the fluid first, but how many miles should I cover before draining it again? Then I'll put in a fresh filter

And what should I use the clean the filter please?

Thanks

Kalp
 

Jay

Admin
Yeah we used brake cleaner as it's basically just steel mesh, you could use acetone if you wanted to be more careful.

At this point I would drain the oil and top up with fresh fluid then roadtest to ensure the box is happy with it's new contents. This process will replace a good percentage of the fluid and mix it with the old oil so is a halfway house between the (sometimes damaging) full flush you can see done on youtube and ignoring it altogether. I did the same recently on my RX300 at 120k.

As for service intervals I would suggest dropping the oil every 2 years to keep it clean from now on. Probably overkill but prevention is better than cure.
 

Jay

Admin
Just re-read the original post and realised I'd only answered half the question :homer:

Roadtest vehicle to warm up oil
Drain oil from box and measure volume
Renew sump bung washer (part number 35178-30010) and refit bung
Add same volume of fresh Dexron II equivalent ATF via dipstick tube
This will take patience
Once everything is back together start engine
Sitting at idle cycle slowly through the gears (P,N,D,2,1,2,D,N,P)
Check ATF level with engine running and adjust as required
Roadtest to ensure all is good
Recheck ATF level at regular intervals

I've used a few different brands of Dexron II and III without noticing any variance. Only exception was when I used Redline racing ATF, changes were sharper and smoother but it could just be in my head.
 
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