GT Turbo Auto

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steve-gers

Member +
Looking at swapping my car (corsa redtop) for a starlet GT Turbo Automatic. Was unsure of a few things and thought this would be the place to ask the questions. Ok so obviously I would rather have a manual but just now that's not the option I have got. I have the spec list of the starlet I have been offered and a few questions if anyone can answer some or all of them, that would be greatly appreciated.

All the work that has been done to the car was carried out by CRD

Spec List
Engine and gearbox were rebuilt at the end of 2009
Cruise 1.6mm headgasket
Samco hoses and hard boost pipes
HKS FMIC
HKS actuator
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Adjustable FPR
Greddy in car boost controller
Greddy forged dump valve
Unknown turbo manifold + decat and exhaust system (2.5 inch)
EBC disks + greenstuff pads

Few other things like new CV's and omp racing seats but nothing too exciting.

Question 1 - In standard form how much slower is the auto than the manual in 0-60 terms?

Question 2 - What is the general performance of the auto's and how much difference will these small amount of mods add to this?

Question 3 - How much would it be to convert to manual (I've been told £700-£1000)

Question 4 - What kind of things should I look for when checking it other than the normal car checks + smokey turbo, also where do they tend to rust?

Any replies/questions or opinions would be great, thanks.
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
Definitely the right place to ask buddy.

Question 1 - In standard form how much slower is the auto than the manual in 0-60 terms?

Stock on stock the autobox is slightly slower but not by much. You have the perfect view of the manual driver wrestling with the gear shifts whilst you grin and wave in comfort. On average a car length or so till 80mph.

Question 2 - What is the general performance of the auto's and how much difference will these small amount of mods add to this?

The autos can be tuned just the same as the manuals with the same gains although there is a question mark on when the torque convertor starts to let go. Think it's about the 200bhp area depending on the torque output. The mods on that one should offer around 150~170 bhp but it will depend entirely on the tune. I think you will be pleasantly surprised when the boost kicks in.

Question 3 - How much would it be to convert to manual (I've been told £700-£1000)

£500 upwards usually. Depends where you shop. If you play it smart/lucky you can sort it for less.

Question 4 - What kind of things should I look for when checking it other than the normal car checks + smokey turbo, also where do they tend to rust?

Check out our buyers guide mate, it should give you a heads up on most things : Clicky here

My honest advice is to go drive it. You will know after the first 3 miles if an auto is for you. I have the choice of both here and nine times out of ten I'll jump in the auto. It's very easy to drive.

Hope that helps,

Jay
 
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steve-gers

Member +
Thanks for the reply. That's made me feel alot better about getting it as I thought it might be quite slow. I will definitely be taking it a test run to see if I like it or not. So I take it the 500 quid is for parts then you got labour on top of that? Had a read at the buyers guide, very helpful, alot of the common problems mentioned in it have been fixed recently with receipts to prove. Hopefully going for a look on saturday and possibly swap if its good.
 
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bucketep91

Member +
where about in scotland you from buddy?

not that hard to find the parts to convert it to manual, there a couple of people breaking starlets local to me in glasgow so you could get the parts easy and its not that big of a job to do.
 
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steve-gers

Member +
From a wee crappy town called stranraer. I would be able to do some of it but i think the majority of it would need to be done by someone who knows what they are doing. What's all involved? I can think of gearbox, pedal box, gear stick, linkages, mounts, clutch, cable......
 
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steve-gers

Member +
Yeah the place is full of them there's a couple of really really quick ones. When I click that link I just get "Sorry, the link that brought you to this page seems to be out of date or broken." also i was thinking that while I was changing transmission it would probably be a good idea to just put a better gearbox and clutch on so that if I want more power later on I don't need to worry about it.
 
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iamlegend

Member +
automatics are FTMFW mate!!
you WILL not be dissapointed trust me i have had a GT turbo and now i have my TDO4 glanza V automatic and it fucking flys! shocks ALOT of people! it will 100% give the manual owners a good run i tell thi!
IMG_0394.jpg

IMG_0407.jpg


:p
 
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Rev

Member +
iamlegend said:
automatics are FTMFW mate!!
you WILL not be dissapointed trust me i have had a GT turbo and now i have my TDO4 glanza V automatic and it fucking flys! shocks ALOT of people! it will 100% give the manual owners a good run

Legend and Jay what gear box and diffs do you have , Steve may not realise their are different autos to choose from?
Click to expand...
 
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Rev

Member +
Ok , I can tell you what I found on the net but if auto owners could post their gearbox axle details from their engine bay that would be confirmation.

Toyota___4E FTE____ Model____TRANS/AXLE____ R&P RAtio____Drive____Type

_________1998__________________A242E/05A_____3.15_________FF_______Auto
_________1992_____EP82_________A242E/ ?_______3.15________ FF_______Auto____3 speed + Electric OD
__________________EP82_________A242L/562_________________ FF_______Auto
__________________EP91_________A242E/562_________________ FF_______Auto


As far as I know the main performance difference is in the axle ?


Sera______1992_____5E-FHE________A242E/712_____2.962_______ FF_______Auto____
 
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Paul_JJ

Member +
Rev said:
Ok , I can tell you what I found on the net but if auto owners could post their gearbox axle details from their engine bay that would be confirmation.

Toyota___4E FTE____ Model____TRANS/AXLE____ R&P RAtio____Drive____Type

_________1998______________A242E/05A_________________FF_______Auto
_________1992_____EP82_____A242E/712_____ 4.63________ FF_______Auto____4 speed + Electric OD
__________________EP82_____A242L/562_________________ FF_______Auto
__________________EP91_____A242E/562_________________ FF_______Auto


As far as I know the main performance difference is in the axle ?
Click to expand...

I agree with Rev, the axle would be different depending on the year!

Mine is 98 glanza v and 242E 05A which is pretty good gearbox I'd say - I can do 80 mph in 2nd...
 
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Paul_JJ

Member +
Japanese auto gearboxes are pretty good I'd say! Compared to the US and EU ones! No wonder nobody likes the European Auto as they're dull and it takes ages to kick in..... well apart from the most expensive ones of course!

In my case the gearbox kicks in WITH the turbo - as you have a lag anyway for the turbo no matter the gearbox......
 
Jay

Jay

Admin
Rev said:
Ok , I can tell you what I found on the net but if auto owners could post their gearbox axle details from their engine bay that would be confirmation.

Toyota___4E FTE____ Model____TRANS/AXLE____ R&P RAtio____Drive____Type

_________1998______________A242E/05A_________________FF_______Auto
_________1992_____EP82_____A242E/712_____ 4.63________ FF_______Auto____4 speed + Electric OD
__________________EP82_____A242L/562_________________ FF_______Auto
__________________EP91_____A242E/562_________________ FF_______Auto


As far as I know the main performance difference is in the axle ?
Click to expand...


Just for reference I made a comparison of the autoboxes and found them all the same ratio wise:

1996 JDM Glanza V Automatic

1st : 3.643
2nd : 2.008
3rd : 1.296
4th : 0.892
5th : -
Reverse : 2.977
Counter gear ratio : unconfirmed
Differential gear ratio : 2.821
Fluid Capacity : unconfirmed
Fluid Type : ATF Type DII or Dexron II or Dexron III


1992-1995 JDM GT Automatic

1st : 3.643
2nd : 2.008
3rd : 1.296
4th : 0.892
5th : -
Reverse : 2.977
Counter gear ratio : unconfirmed
Differential gear ratio : 2.821
Fluid Capacity : unconfirmed
Fluid Type : ATF Type DII or Dexron II or Dexron III


1989-1991 JDM GT Automatic

1st : 3.643
2nd : 2.008
3rd : 1.296
4th : 0.892
5th : -
Reverse : 2.977
Counter gear ratio : unconfirmed
Differential gear ratio : 2.962
Fluid Capacity : unconfirmed
Fluid Type : ATF Type DII or Dexron II or Dexron III

My auto should be a A242E/712 but I'll doublecheck next time the bonnet is up. As Paul says they are a damn fine match for the engine, very easy driven. I personally would choose an auto made after 1992 as they introduced the Electronic Transmission Control system at that point and it is a severe bonus in terms of driveability.

Jay
 
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Paul_JJ

Member +
Fluid Capacity : unconfirmed

A242L, A242E, A244L, A244F - 7.2L Dexron III - this is how much fluid you would need to change the fluid in the gearbox and the toque converter!

E at the end - means Electronic Controlled.
 
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Paul_JJ

Member +
Thanks to REV I found that I have the same AXLE as Celica! AXLE 05A

Also I found something here

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/toyota-differential-identification-18588.html

oyota Differential Code Decoder - Vehicles with 4Txxxxxx... VINs
First Position - Diameter of ring gear Positions 2 & 3 - Ratio Final Position - Differential type
A = 7.5" 01 = 3.42 02 = 3.58 A = 2 Pinion, Open
B = 8" 03 = 4.10 04 = 4.56 B = 4 Pinion, Open
05 = 3.15 06 = 3.91 C = 2 Pinion, OEM Limited Slip

So in my case 05A - would be 3.15 - 2 Pinion, OPEN - what do you think???
Can someone confirm regarding the OEM Lim. Slip - do You have "C" at the end of your AXLE code???
 
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steve-gers

Member +
Thanks for all the great advice, went and looked at the car and fell in love instantly lol.

Mine has the electronic overdrive not tried it on/off yet to see how much difference it makes. Got 10 grand's worth of receipts with it dating back to 2007 for various things so going to update spec list now and maybe someone can give me some idea of BHP and how much it's worth?

Updated Spec List
Full engine rebuild
Samco hoses & hard boost pipes
Forge Dump Valve
HKS actuator
HKS fuel cut defender
Greddy boost controller
HDI FMIC
De-cat pipe
Walbro 255LPH fuel pump
Adjustable FPR
CRD uprated manifold

Loads and loads of receipts for things like new cv joints, air con re-gassing, wheel's and tyres, 4 wheel laser alignment, seats, harnesses, anti rollbar bushes, filters, oil...........etc. All seems well hope it stays like that. What would be the next step in getting more power?
 
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Paul_JJ

Member +
Drive with the O/D off - the car will be faster, but will drink more fuel. Changing the gears manually would be even more faster -) But don't forget to change the fluid in the gearbox at least once a year it's crucial!

ALso, don't forget to leave the rep. for those who helped you!
 
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steve-gers

Member +
I'm new to turbo'd cars so don't really know anything about them but learning slowly. What exactly is overdrive and how does it work? Yeah kinda worked out how to change them manually, much better. is the gearbox oil easy to change? Also there are 2 buttons above the gearstick that say "manu" and "power" + a small red one, what are these for? Lastly how do you leave reputation? Cheers
 
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