Hard starting and check engine light when cold and warm

alex farmer

Member +
been dogged with this issue since buying the car, it's been a pig to start no matter what i do. ICV has been out and cleaned, then replaced and cleaned to no avail. The car also refuses to prime the fuel pump on ign-on, addign to the issue.
the real treat is the management light that comes on from complete cold to about 25% up on the gauge, then reappears at 50%>
I'm at my wits end for troubleshooting and hav resorted to just throwing money at parts to little success, tried a brand new 5E icv but it doesn't fit the 4E sadly.
the car in question is a 1998 Starlet S 1.3 with 142k miles on the clock.
Any help or advice that doesn involve scrappign the car is appreciated
 

alex farmer

Member +
as a further note, the car is very unwilling to rev when the management light is on when cold, it splutters and coughs a lot.
i have changes the sparkplugs as i thought those were the cause but it has made no effect
 

Jay

Admin
The fact the engine warning lamp is on hopefully means you will have a fault logged to go on rather than guessing.

Give this a whirl:

EFI Diagnosis system description

The ECU contains a built in, self-diagnosis system which detects faults within the engine signal network. When the system detects a fault the "CHECK" engine warning lamp in the instrument panel will illuminate.

By analyzing various signals the ECU detects... https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/efi-self-diagnosis-system.71074/

And report back. If its temp related that could point towards the coolant temp sender but let us know what the codes are.

Jay
 

alex farmer

Member +
The fact the engine warning lamp is on hopefully means you will have a fault logged to go on rather than guessing.

Give this a whirl:

EFI Diagnosis system description

The ECU contains a built in, self-diagnosis system which detects faults within the engine signal network. When the system detects a fault the "CHECK" engine warning lamp in the instrument panel will illuminate.

By analyzing various signals the ECU detects... https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/community/index.php?threads/efi-self-diagnosis-system.71074/

And report back. If its temp related that could point towards the coolant temp sender but let us know what the codes are.

Jay
i did that, that's how i'd sorta narrowed it down to the map or the throttle body sensors.
i'll check it again tomorrow to be sure
 
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Jay

Admin
Best to confirm the fault numbers you are seeing mate. Taking out the EFI fuse for a few minutes will clear them for testing purposes.
 

Jay

Admin
Then I would tackle the code 22 first. Check that the sensor (green one iirc) on the thermostat housing is connected and the wires are solid.

It's common for the distributor o-ring to weep oil on older engines and this can contaminate the sensors and wiring below making them brittle and full of oil so check that hasn't happened as well.
 

alex farmer

Member +
after a bit of reading up on other forums and ECU code lists, code 33 is for the ISCV
i've replaced the iscv previously, and since cleaned it.
the throttle body gasket is rather tired, would it be advisable to replace it?
 

Jay

Admin
Would do no harm.

Probably best to stick with the temperature related issue as it explains the symptoms.
 

alex farmer

Member +
i've swapped the coolant temp sensor for a used yaris part, it's made no difference to the car's starting apart from two starts after i put the part in
i cleared the codes before installing it, just to be sure
 
i've swapped the coolant temp sensor for a used yaris part, it's made no difference to the car's starting apart from two starts after i put the part in
i cleared the codes before installing it, just to be sure
you really should use 4e-Fte specific sensors when on a stock ecu. not every sensor is calibrated the same way
 

SKINY

Lifer
Did you have an engine fitted to this ?
Was chatting with a mate about working on a starlet doing what yours is doing and pit an engine in
 
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