HKS actuator length

M

milo

Member +
Hello chaps,

im swapping over my hks actuator from my old turbo to my new one, could someone tell me what length it needs to be to be the same as stock?

thanks very much :)

Miles
 
Glanza_cl

Glanza_cl

Member +
basicaly when you fit the actuator, wind it out almost as far as it will go then once connected wind in far enough that it holds the slack of the wastgate arm and maybe one more just to make sure it's tight... that should be around 0.6bar.
 
M

morpheus

Member +
normally what u do is set it same length as the stock one and then fine tune it..
THE MORE U SHORTEN THE ARM =MORE BOOST PRESSURE....
2 TURNS ON THE NUT=0.1 BAR[APPROXIMATIVELY]:p
 
glanza_dan

glanza_dan

Fresh Recruit
you will need a boost gauge aswell to see what boost you are runnin.
as the other person said shorter the rod =more boost , longer the rod= less boost. dont put on the C clip intill you have the right boost beucase there a bugger to get off, I used a R clip very easy to put on and off. Oh be carefull its very hot
 
Texx

Texx

Super Moderator
milo said:
im swapping over my hks actuator from my old turbo to my new one, could someone tell me what length it needs to be to be the same as stock?
Click to expand...

What you need to remember is that it's not the length of the rod that actually adjusts the boost level, it's the pre load on the actuator spring that is increased or decreased when the rod is shortened or lengthened that adjusts the boost level, so there is no fixed length to adjust the rod to keep the stock boost level.

I've found the best way to initially setup a HKS actuator is to adjust the length of the rod so it just about reaches the wastegate arm with the wastegate fully closed. Then shorten the rod by about 3mm so you have to pull against the actuator spring to get the rod to attach to the wastegate arm. This pre load you've added by pulling the rod out that 3mm will keep the wastegate closed whilst the turbo spools. If the actuator spring has insufficient pre load the wastegate can start to creep open as the turbo spools and boost pressure is applied to the actuator diaphragm, this results in excessive turbo lag and poor engine performance.

It's a case of matching the desired maximum boost pressure to the amount of pre load on the actuator spring, so that's why it's more trial and error than anything. I would try and adjust the actuator so it is as short as possible without the turbo boosting above your required boost level.

As already suggested though, leave the clip off the actuator pin until you are happy with the rod adjustment.
 
M

mike23

Fresh Recruit
thats interesting im sure i shortened my arm the other day and it was running at .9 before now it runs at .7.and yes the e clips are a nightmare.
 
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