bender

Fresh Recruit
Hi everyone greetings from Vancouver Canada, i recently bought a glanza v and am trying to fix it up.... i am trying to diagnose my radiator fan i feel like it is not kicking in when reach operating temperatures. the car is completely stock. sometimes i turn the engine on(warm) and hear the fan try to boot on and after 2-3 attempts it will run for about 10-20 seconds and turn off again. i heard the fan turn on while driving only a couple times, may i also add that the fan is obnoxiously loud when running and sounds like it needs to be replaced. I read on another post from years ago someone said that if you unplug the thermostat sensor that goes to the fan relay switch your fan will run at all times (if i understood correctly). is this true can i try this to diagnose my fan? what you guys think based on the fan attempting to boot on when starting the engine hot, leads me to believe the fan itself is just old and my sensor is still functioning.

thanks in advance for the help guys as there is no one on my side of the pond with a glanza to check out.
 

SKINY

Lifer
Hey bud, yea normally if you unplug that or the air con plug the fan should run full time. Mine (GT) had the AC removed so it runs full time, new slimline fan and its noisy lol
To test the fan itself just unplug it and use 2 bits of wire to connect it to the battery as it's not that far away.
 

Skalabala

Member +
Welcome :)
Have a look at the wiring, any corrosion in plugs etc. Have a look if the wires are in factory condition, aka no monkey mechanic was there.
Then there is the relays. I have not worked on one of these cars before as they never were in south africa lol.
But what I can see on my computer is that in the engine bay fuse/relay box there is three relays 1,5,7 "cooling fan"
One of them I guess is for the A/C and the other two for fan low and fan high.
It is easy to test the relays, just give them an external signal on the coil of the relay(Ground pin 85 with a wire and straightened paperclip)
Yes you can unplug the coolant sensor and the fan should go on constant.
 

Skalabala

Member +
Hey bud, yea normally if you unplug that or the air con plug the fan should run full time. Mine (GT) had the AC removed so it runs full time, new slimline fan and its noisy lol
To test the fan itself just unplug it and use 2 bits of wire to connect it to the battery as it's not that far away.
You should fix/modify your wires so that the fan does not run constant, the fan is not designed for a 100% duty cycle XD
 

SKINY

Lifer
You should fix/modify your wires so that the fan does not run constant, the fan is not designed for a 100% duty cycle XD
Think we did try a few things when I 1st got it but then gave up and accepted it :) combined with the triple core rad my temp guage never made it past maybe a 3rd no matter what death I gave it
 

Skalabala

Member +
Think we did try a few things when I 1st got it but then gave up and accepted it :) combined with the triple core rad my temp guage never made it past maybe a 3rd no matter what death I gave it
Remember a cold combustion chamber is a dirty inefficient chamber. Have you tried a resistor in the plug?
 

SKINY

Lifer
Remember a cold combustion chamber is a dirty inefficient chamber. Have you tried a resistor in the plug?
Yea Jay from memory did try the jumper wire in the plug but no use, could well be the sensor on the elbow away itself or the rad I suppose, maybe get a look at it soon loool
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
Thanks guys will try these tonight, willing to bet something else is messed because when i turn my AC on the cooling fan kicks in along with the AC fan. So it seems my car wont turn the fan on when it reaches operating temp. Do you guys think the car is just not reaching temp for the fan to kick in. or on your cars it is usually on at some point in your drive? Will go to the junkers and see if i can find a suitable fan incase i need to replace it, wont have any luck finding another oem fan in canada
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
Welcome :)
Have a look at the wiring, any corrosion in plugs etc. Have a look if the wires are in factory condition, aka no monkey mechanic was there.
Then there is the relays. I have not worked on one of these cars before as they never were in south africa lol.
But what I can see on my computer is that in the engine bay fuse/relay box there is three relays 1,5,7 "cooling fan"
One of them I guess is for the A/C and the other two for fan low and fan high.
It is easy to test the relays, just give them an external signal on the coil of the relay(Ground pin 85 with a wire and straightened paperclip)
Yes you can unplug the coolant sensor and the fan should go on cons

Welcome :)
Have a look at the wiring, any corrosion in plugs etc. Have a look if the wires are in factory condition, aka no monkey mechanic was there.
Then there is the relays. I have not worked on one of these cars before as they never were in south africa lol.
But what I can see on my computer is that in the engine bay fuse/relay box there is three relays 1,5,7 "cooling fan"
One of them I guess is for the A/C and the other two for fan low and fan high.
It is easy to test the relays, just give them an external signal on the coil of the relay(Ground pin 85 with a wire and straightened paperclip)
Yes you can unplug the coolant sensor and the fan should go on constant.
Thanks will test these when i get home tonight
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
Hey bud, yea normally if you unplug that or the air con plug the fan should run full time. Mine (GT) had the AC removed so it runs full time, new slimline fan and its noisy lol
To test the fan itself just unplug it and use 2 bits of wire to connect it to the battery as it's not that far away.
Do you know where the aircon plug is normally located, can probly find it when i have a look later.
Also are you running that aftermarket fan with stock radiator? Thanks alot
 

SKINY

Lifer
From memory it was in around between the battery and the guard at the right hand top area bud.
The radiator is a half size Suzuki gsxr600 job :)
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
From memory it was in around between the battery and the guard at the right hand top area bud.
The radiator is a half size Suzuki gsxr600 job :)
I can unplug this for the meantime and all is good while i figure out what is causing the fan to not turn on? Thanks SKINY

I think i need to sort a half radiator too as i have manifold, ct9 hybrid and screamer pipe that came with the car a little reluctant on installing though its completely stock
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
I read on another old post that the glanza has different wiring scheme then starlet GT in regard to the cooling fan system, my thermostat housing only has one plug (1pin) and looks like it goes back to the cooling fan relay. if this is the fan switch sensor then where is the coolant temp sensor on the glanza? im going to go unplug the 1pin sensor on the thermostat housing and see if that sorts my fan out
 
unfortunately i haven't the time to read the entire post now, but on the glanza i think the green single wire sensor on the back of thermostat housing is the fan switch---pointing to the firewall
there is another triangular 3 wire switch that i think may be the ecu coolant temperature sensor
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
update: i tested some connections, i tested the power wire from the cooling fan to the relay, the relay wire that runs to the coolant fan sensor; they both checked out for continuity.

when i run the engine with the coolant fan sensor off, and ground that i hear a clicking sound from the passenger headlight beside the battery (where the fuses/relays are) Is there a way i can test the system without the relay in place?
 

bender

Fresh Recruit
update: i tested some connections, i tested the power wire from the cooling fan to the relay, the relay wire that runs to the coolant fan sensor; they both checked out for continuity.

when i run the engine with the coolant fan sensor off, and ground that i hear a clicking sound from the passenger headlight beside the battery (where the fuses/relays are) Is there a way i can test the system without the relay in place?
Could this be caused by my fan being bad, and the relay is constantly trying to start it?, my fan will come on when the AC is turned on, but that is only at half speed i believe. any one have any input? i think im getting closer
 

Skalabala

Member +
Do not use a multimeter in continuity mode for these types of testing. You need to test with a load like a test light.
To test without the relay just bridge the two high current pins, Pin 30 and 87 do not use a thin wire to bridge it as t will go up in smoke.
 
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