if your good with wires please help here...,

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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
thanks weejohn... no i definitly dont have any type of immobiliser or keycode ignition. as far as i know no jap spec starlet had any security system as standard. will check the voltage now and report back
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
ok ive checked the voltage of the injectors with the ignition turned on. all 4 black/red wires are showing 11.9 and the battery is showing 12.4
 
Fatman

Fatman

Member +
So youre getting fuel and spark but it still won't start? Check timing with a timing light to ensure it's at 10 degrees btdc. Check order of the leads on the dizzy cap, remembering number 1 is at the crank pulley end of the engine. If still no go check for error codes
 
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speedfreaq

Member +
your injectors are clicking.. but are you sure there is fuel in the line?

pull the plugs and check if they smell of petrol (if they are wet)

check if fuel is in the fuel line as well
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
so have i to get a diagnostics test? i dont think any of the local garages have the machines for that. there is spark and there is fuel in he rail, the plugs are dry and kind of sooty but i never checked them before the conversion so they could be like that a while, the engine was running very well tho and i dont understand how, if i changed the engine, gearbox, and all the wiring, the ecu, and 2 fuse boxes how is it not starting now??
 
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speedfreaq

Member +
i would think that if you have been trying to start the car for a while and you are getting fuel in the line then the plugs should be wet and smell of petrol....

i cant see no reason for it to not start when you have spark and fuel.....

remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and put the hose coming from the filter into a bottle or can or something to catch any fuel that may come out.
then turn on the ignition and see if fuel is pumping out of the line...

how did you test for spark?
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
i took each plug out at different times and put them back on the lead and turned the key... it sometimes tries to start but hasnt started
 
weeJohn

weeJohn

Lifer
alotofpower said:
thanks weejohn... no i definitly dont have any type of immobiliser or keycode ignition. as far as i know no jap spec starlet had any security system as standard. will check the voltage now and report back
Click to expand...

Sorry, there are 4efe and 5efhe UK spec cars available with immobiliser systems as well, like EP91`s and EL54`s

Try swapping the plugs for another set, dont need to be new just fresh.
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
i swapped the fuel pumps around one night while i was tired and went to bed after. then i couldnt find time to get to try start it. but i went out today put the battery in. tried it once for a second to kick in the pump and the second attempt it started strait up. im a happy camper
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
thanks for all the help. how do i add rep? im now having an idol problem... its going between 700rpm and 1200rpm just on idol. as soon as you drive its perfect. ive no indicators/hazard lights.
 
rmsnoel

rmsnoel

Member +
Idle up and down like that means theres a vaccum leak round the manifold somewhere.
Have you a ACIS manifold?
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
i have the complete cynos and starlet exhausts. im using the starlet exhaust at the moment but i will be using the cynos exaust mated to the starlet backbox. will this help? is it ok to drive like this?
 
Fatman

Fatman

Member +
Congratulations on getting it running.

rmsnoel is referring to the intake manifold, did you use the ACIS manifold (there should be a label on it) that came on the 5e-fhe or did you use the original manifold?

There are some vacuum tanks and lines plus a solenoid or two which run the runner switching ability on the ACIS manifold, if these aren't connected correctly or wired then it might explain the vacuum leak causing your wandering idle.

Is it fine to drive? Sure. Not going to cause any harm other than probably chewing through a little more fuel.

You say the problem resolves itself once you've driven the car, what does the idle stabilise at?
 
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alotofpower

Fresh Recruit
sorry about the delay, ive been flat out all week. (a womans work is never done!!)

im using the 5efhe intake manifold, all i kept from the 4e was p/s pump and radiator.

yes its driving ok its just up and down rpm at idol, once im driving its fine? a friend of mine said it was something to do with "vacuum return"??
 
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Olamun

Fresh Recruit
speedfreaq said:
there will be a few differences between the 5efhe and the 4efe wiring as they use two different types of ignition setups.

the 5efhe will, as you noted carry an external coil. so the 5efhe loom will need extra wires for the external coil and ignitor.
one two pin plug for the coil and a 5 pin plug for the ignitor.

the 4efe distributor will have 2 plugs (one 2 pin and one 4 pin)
the 5efhe distributor will have one 4 pin plug

most everything else will be the same.....
the 5efhe is more similar in wiring to the 4efte as they both use the same type of ignition setup.
Click to expand...
Kindly help to label the wires of each plug of 4efe distributor
 
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