I'm confused. I keep getting this error on my Emanage Ultimate. I'm confused because, I don't have a VTEC equipped engine. Its a 1995 Toyota Starlet GT running a 5efte with a gt2835R and an ACIS intake manifold and obviously an Emanage Ultimate. also having some other odd issues including datalogged throttle position not responding(it shows when I go to the paramater setup, but not on the datalog) also I am getting no ignition timing feedback, which I believe is due to my wiring, but I can adjust timing, just have no feedback while datalogging. and last but not least, if I monitor Water temp, it is always at 267*. I noticed on the EMU that I can only run a water temp or a knock sensor monitor, not both. It is hooked up to the knock sensor, so I'll be messing with it a lot this weekend, but the low vtec signal one confuses me. anyone have any ideas?
I'm having a couple small problems with my EMU
- Thread starter tersplat
- Start date
bump. I figured out one of the problems, My question is, do I hook the knock sensor/water temp sensor wire from the EMU up the the water temp sensor, or knock sensor? and which wire do I use to get ignition feedback? right now it is spliced in to pin 7 on the 26pin connector. is that correct?
FIXED I connected the knock/water temp wire on the emanage to the water temp sensor on the car. works great. for datalogging the ignition, you have to click on Ignition map in the datalogging screen, not just ignition timing. the throttle in the datalogging seems to have fixed itself. I also wired in my wideband, built the timing map using 1* retard per psi or .689V on the greddy pressure sensor, while running 92RON gas. set intial timing to 10*BTDC, found and fixed a fuel leak on the #1 injector, remounted the stock ecu under the radio, mounted the emanage in it's place, mounted and wired in an EGT gauge, and a boost gauge. Both are Autotechnics, and they are amazing. I got the car to idle and rung great on the 440CC injectors, now I am having two new issues. I hadn't gone in to boost since I dropped the 5efte in due to not being tuned, so these problems might have been there before.
First is if the car is running for a couple hours at a time, it will start to run lean(20+AFR), then if I let it sit for a while(an hour or so), and start it up again, it will run great.Any ideas?
Second is once I get to above 5psi, the car seems to misfire quite badly no matter the RPM. it doesnt feel like fuel cut and the wideband reads slightly more rich when it happens. I am guessing it is the spark plugs, but I am open to ideas. It has a new dizzy cap, rotor, and magnacore leads. I have a new set of plugs ready to install, just ran out of time. does anyone have any other ideas? Rep will be added for useful help.
First is if the car is running for a couple hours at a time, it will start to run lean(20+AFR), then if I let it sit for a while(an hour or so), and start it up again, it will run great.Any ideas?
Second is once I get to above 5psi, the car seems to misfire quite badly no matter the RPM. it doesnt feel like fuel cut and the wideband reads slightly more rich when it happens. I am guessing it is the spark plugs, but I am open to ideas. It has a new dizzy cap, rotor, and magnacore leads. I have a new set of plugs ready to install, just ran out of time. does anyone have any other ideas? Rep will be added for useful help.
hardcoreep
Member +
Probably heat, or EGTs.
Check what heat range you using, should be 7, and then check the plug gap. If its still misfiring then you need to either back off fueling or look at what the ignition data log is saying.
ok not I am stumped. I have looked at my datalogs, and I still dont see actual timing. I see the adjustments I made to the timing map, but not the actual engine timing. I dont know how to post a screenshot of the datalog, but pretty much what it is saying is that when I go in to boost, the injectors are still doing the exact same thing, and the boost when I'm in 5th at low rpm it will do the same thing, but
I start seeing it at exactly 0psi as measured on both map sensors. so that leads me to believe that the stock ecu is somehow pulling timing when it sees boost. and I dont know why. same thing seems to be happenning with the whole running lean after a long period of running. even just idling, it will start running lean, then if I floor it, it will spit and sputter, even build some boost at less than 1500rpm so that also leads me to believe that the stock ecu is retarding timing a massive amount for no reason. does anyone have any ideas what might be going on, and what I can do to fix it?
I start seeing it at exactly 0psi as measured on both map sensors. so that leads me to believe that the stock ecu is somehow pulling timing when it sees boost. and I dont know why. same thing seems to be happenning with the whole running lean after a long period of running. even just idling, it will start running lean, then if I floor it, it will spit and sputter, even build some boost at less than 1500rpm so that also leads me to believe that the stock ecu is retarding timing a massive amount for no reason. does anyone have any ideas what might be going on, and what I can do to fix it?
I am doing so many double posts, but I keep getting more and more stumped. the idle issue is not one with the timing, but with the fuel instead. I checked the timing with the timing gun and it is still at 10btdc which is where I set it at. so that's not the problem. still confused and would love any suggestions.
gorganl2000
Lifer
now i'm not a tuner and i dont deal with tuning
but based on what i heard, it seems with emu you can alter the car's ignition timing, but you cant get the actual timing figure your car is running
does your water temperature actually show on the emu?...as in actual degrees celcius
and if so, is the emu water temperature reflective of actual coolant temperature or is it just some random useless number??
but based on what i heard, it seems with emu you can alter the car's ignition timing, but you cant get the actual timing figure your car is running
does your water temperature actually show on the emu?...as in actual degrees celcius
and if so, is the emu water temperature reflective of actual coolant temperature or is it just some random useless number??
Sheldon
Malta Area Rep.
water temp reading is good.
gorganl2000
Lifer
thanks sheldon
HYBRID
Super Moderator <a href="http://www.toyotagtturbo.
ok woah... seems like uv got some panic in ur wireing mate...
so...
1.) blue/yellow emu wire gets spliced into the oem water temp wire on oem ecu..
2.) purple/yellow ecu wire gets spliced into air intake temp, as using knock is uselss as even calibrated it still reads to much noise.. so ait is a better choice
3.) ur misfire sounds like uv got either ur i/j or ign wires jumpers set incorrectly...
4.) have you set up the parameters correctly?
5.) is the emu reading in deg celcius?
6.) post up screenshots please
7.) on the gt ecu.. DONT HOOK UP THE DAMN TPS WIRE.
8.) on the glanza ecu, the tps reading is pretty useless as its an open/closed type sensor.. so ull only get a reading at the last 10% of the pedal being pressed
9.) u cant read the correct ign timing from the datalog on the emu as the correct correction angle to be input in the parameters is till today still unknown... so basically it reads fuck all.. except timing it imagines lol...
10.) are you using the a/f tune feature? if you are turn it off.. it will hinder not help your tuning as ur forcing the emu into closed loop...
hope that helps..
kon
so...
1.) blue/yellow emu wire gets spliced into the oem water temp wire on oem ecu..
2.) purple/yellow ecu wire gets spliced into air intake temp, as using knock is uselss as even calibrated it still reads to much noise.. so ait is a better choice
3.) ur misfire sounds like uv got either ur i/j or ign wires jumpers set incorrectly...
4.) have you set up the parameters correctly?
5.) is the emu reading in deg celcius?
6.) post up screenshots please
7.) on the gt ecu.. DONT HOOK UP THE DAMN TPS WIRE.
8.) on the glanza ecu, the tps reading is pretty useless as its an open/closed type sensor.. so ull only get a reading at the last 10% of the pedal being pressed
9.) u cant read the correct ign timing from the datalog on the emu as the correct correction angle to be input in the parameters is till today still unknown... so basically it reads fuck all.. except timing it imagines lol...
10.) are you using the a/f tune feature? if you are turn it off.. it will hinder not help your tuning as ur forcing the emu into closed loop...
hope that helps..
kon
hybrid, you are amazing. so as a reply to your post here's exactly what I have right now.
1)blue/yellow is hooked up to water temp(reading degrees F... I'm in the US)
2)I have my knock sensor hooked up with no settings changed, I will change that
3)I will double check, but I have all my jumpers in the original position from greddy
4)I have my parameters set up like your pictures in the EMU tuning thread.
5)EMU is reading in Fahrenheit.
6)I'm not sure how to do a screenshot.
7)I have the TPS hooked up for the launch control feature, should I use the MAP sensor instead?
8)running a gt ecu
9)k, I wont worry about reading actual timing then.
10) yeah I was using the autotune feature so I could get to and from work.
1)blue/yellow is hooked up to water temp(reading degrees F... I'm in the US)
2)I have my knock sensor hooked up with no settings changed, I will change that
3)I will double check, but I have all my jumpers in the original position from greddy
4)I have my parameters set up like your pictures in the EMU tuning thread.
5)EMU is reading in Fahrenheit.
6)I'm not sure how to do a screenshot.
7)I have the TPS hooked up for the launch control feature, should I use the MAP sensor instead?
8)running a gt ecu
9)k, I wont worry about reading actual timing then.
10) yeah I was using the autotune feature so I could get to and from work.
Sheldon
Malta Area Rep.
im almost 100% sure the autotune works only when a laptop is connected, your going to work and back with the laptop on ? lol
it definitely works when a laptop is not connected. it is a feature you activate and a map you select. It seems to work pretty well, but I guess I'll be turning it off. one more question, my plx wideband has 2 output wires, one for a narrowband signal, one for a wideband signal which I am using on the emanage to datalog. which wire do I use to connect the narrowband signal to the car's harness. I am no longer running the stock o2 sensor, which is why I wish to use the narrowband output of the wideband. Do I just use the lambda sensor wire(pin 10 on the 26 pin connector)? or another wire?
