instrument cluster swap help :(

dac69er

Super Moderator
got myself an import ep82 dash cluster with rev counter to replace my gay basic one. it all plugged in ok but nothing really worked as it should :(

spent a good few hours swapping wires about, getting all the warning lights working correctly. got the temperature gauge working etc.

final 2 bits i need to finish off i need a bit of help with:

the left and right indicator arrows work correctly when used separately, but when i use the hazzard switch they dont blink together like they should, nothing happens. the actual indicators are ok, just the arrows on the cluster.


secondly. where do i pick up the rpm wire from? i was using a wiring diagram as a guide and it says it should be a white wire. i have no white wire up at the cluster but do have a few other spare wires :(



anyone able to help me out?
 

weakboy2

Member +
Ah thats a pain mate, would have been nice to just plug it straight in! i had a look at the boot seal yesterday and its perfect, also if you need anything that might help sorting the rev counter out get on to me bud :)
 

Texx

Super Moderator
The easiest place to take a tacho feed from would probably be the IG- terminal of the diagnostic port.

Does the original combination meter have independent turn signal indicators, or has it just one indicator that represents both left and right?
 

weakboy2

Member +
Also just for reference, its out of an EP82 starlet S, so not quite the same as a GT one (although, i think it looks better!)
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
original is independent mate. followed the connections through at the back and it all seems to be fine. its just odd that it works when you select the direction, but they just wont flash together. could just be me though, may just need a clear head and another go at it.

is there a -IG signal at the ecu? would be alot closer and easier?


i know what you mean mate. was expecting it to be nice and easy, just swap over and it worked. all that may help mate, is if you could take a pic of each plug so i could see what colours go where originally. nothing is ever as easy as it first seems ;)
as for the seal mate, sounds good. fitted alot of the other bits now ;) i have a few other bits i need but will send you a pm when the car is on the road to let you know.
 

Texx

Super Moderator
is there a -IG signal at the ecu? would be alot closer and easier?

Unfortunately the tacho signal is produced by the igniter, so you'll have to run a wire out to the engine bay mate.

Not really sure why the turn signal indicators aren't working, did you check they were working with the hazard switch before you swapped over the combination meter?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
Unfortunately the tacho signal is produced by the igniter, so you'll have to run a wire out to the engine bay mate.

Not really sure why the turn signal indicators aren't working, did you check they were working with the hazard switch before you swapped over the combination meter?

hmmm. this 4efte has the coil etc build into the distributor so ill have to have a gander there!

ill be honest, im not 100% sure about the indicators on the old cluster, just assumed it would do as it does on my girlfriends ep91 and both my ep82's.

so the rev counter on a GT has a wire taken from the ignitor and back into the car to the instrument cluster?
 

weeJohn

Lifer
The tacho wire is a screened cable, when I did the clock conversion on my EP91 sportif, even though it had no rev counter the wire was still behind the clocks, just not connected. Have a look for a screened cable and try it.

The indictor one is an odd one alright, its making me wonder if mine flash at all with the hazzards on!
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
definitely no screened cable mate. unless its wrapped up in the tape thats on it or something.

ill get everything else working on it and then ill see what wires i have left. im wondering if i can take the signal off the IGF terminal on the ecu? other electronic guages take the signal from there? or is the power draw for the tacho a bit too much and could it mess up the signal recieved by the ecu?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
I can't see any harm in trying it, the worst that might happen is the ECU throwing code 14 and possibly cutting fuel.

right. got everything working 100% apart from the rev counter and im not sure about the fuel gauge???

the big fuel gauge that was on the old cluster indicated a bit under half way. the new cluster shows it at about 1 3rd. could they be scaled slightly differently or something? so when i have a full tank with the new cluster i only have around 2/3s shown on the dial?


as for the rev counter. does anyone know which wire i need to splice into for the -IG signal? want to wire it up as it would be from the factory if i can. may as well do a proper job while im at it ;)
 

weeJohn

Lifer
There is an IG- signal at the diagnostics plug, you could pick it up there or trace it back from there. The screened cable will have the screen stripped back off it about 5cm and connected to an earth somewhere local to the end of the cable, inner core you need obviously.

Is there a small pot (dial that can be adjusted with a screwdriver) on the circuit board in the clocks between the connection plug and the needle coil?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
without taking the cluster apart im not sure mate. i will have to have a look. want to take the cluster apart and fit the mph speedo in place of the kph one anyway ;)

i did notice the -IG port. i have an ep82 engine loom spare so ill trace it through on that to find out where it goes and pick up off there ;) cheers
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
weejohn, do you happen to know what is under the 2 flaps under the rear seats? drivers side just has a 2 pin plug and the other side has 4 or more (just looked breifly).
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
removed both the fuel gauges and there is a small difference. they have 2 resistors fitted. the one that was originally in the car has a 75 ohm and 100 ohn resistor on it. the new one has a 75 ohm and 120ohm resistor on it.

they are direct swap so hopefully just swapping them over will sort that little problem out ;)
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
right. other than the fuel gauge which im not 100% about its accuracy. i have got the dials in and they all work perfectly.

got the rpm signal from right near the cluster. there is a black wire on the larger multiplug that connects to the interior fusebox. that is the -IG signal. it does come out the other side as a white wire and goes into the loom, couldnt see the point in stripping back the loom just to find the end of that.
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
all back together now. think the fuel gauge is fine. ill working 100%. also boshed a mph speedo face on there too. just the foglight to do now ;)
 

weeJohn

Lifer
all back together now. think the fuel gauge is fine. ill working 100%. also boshed a mph speedo face on there too. just the foglight to do now ;)

Use one of the reversing lights for that, the tail light relay is below the dash, take a feed of there and run it through the switch, then run a wire to the light and snip the wire off the lamp base and connect to the base.

Looks far neater and totally legal.
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
ive done the control side of things yesterday for the foglight. done it properly with its own relay and seperate fuse ;)

just need the damn rain to stop so i can finish it off :(
 
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