Johnoglanza
Member +
I have a 5e which I'll be forging and I also want to build the head aswell And I'm not sure what high lift cams,shims etc to get
Need info about headwork
- Thread starter Johnoglanza
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Johnoglanza
Member +
Basically I want the works,
I plan to fully forge the engine (5e engine) (8:1 comp)and plan on running a Garrett gt28 , not sure on ecu yet
The head seems to be a black art so I want to get the best for the car
Thanks
I plan to fully forge the engine (5e engine) (8:1 comp)and plan on running a Garrett gt28 , not sure on ecu yet
The head seems to be a black art so I want to get the best for the car
Thanks
gorganl2000
Lifer
i know a guy on my island made 294whp using a completely stock head on a built 5e block...running a gt28 as well (not the disco potato).... i think it was the gt2871
so based on what you said, you could keep the head stock or do very mild port and polish if you wish
seems the stock head is good for about 300-350bhp
so based on what you said, you could keep the head stock or do very mild port and polish if you wish
seems the stock head is good for about 300-350bhp
Johnoglanza
Member +
Thanks but I'm looking to modify the head and I'm trying to see what options are the best out there cams,valves etc
dac69er
Super Moderator
As above, most people don't bother.
However, I have read about bigger valves, harder springs and solid lifters and cams so probably worth just using he search to see what info comes up. There are a few bits about but I think the head is quite well designed so most don't bother messing with it.
Head work can be very expensive, the Zisco modified heads use 7MGTE valves modified to fit the 5E heads and back in the day 4AG valves were used in the USA.
You will need uprated valve springs: https://www.raceeng.com/p-19871-springtitanium-retainer-kit4e-fte-set-4e-fte-kit.aspx
For cams these may still be available:http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/product_nav.php?type=C&cat=CM&man=25&engine=325
You will need uprated valve springs: https://www.raceeng.com/p-19871-springtitanium-retainer-kit4e-fte-set-4e-fte-kit.aspx
For cams these may still be available:http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/product_nav.php?type=C&cat=CM&man=25&engine=325
Compression wise personally I would not use 8.3:1 CR when you have very good pump gas available in your area and good ambient temps, the lowest I would use is 9.0:1 CR and if you add a water injection kit that is additional safety. 35 per cent improvement has been seen on a flow bench with standard OEM valves and a port and polish only
dac69er
Super Moderator
first of all you dont need a port and polish save your money
every1 needs to stop talking about bigger valves bla bla
i dont have p nd p nor bigger valves just good cams and springs
and i have 541bhp
its not all about peak power though. a port and polish can decrease spool times and give other gains throughout the rev range. a good port and polish will give some top end gains too.
but i agree, its probably not the best use of your cash.
Johnoglanza
Member +
Thanks lads for the advice
gorganl2000
Lifer
i follow every point noted above...very good information
ep-dylan proves the stock head is pretty good
i think unless you are looking for over 350bhp, then the fully oem/stock head is fine (untouched).....you can spend your money other places
iirc didnt spuddy make decent figures on the stock head too??
looking at the head though, i could see how a mild/modest port and polish could help a lot,,,,i'm really just talking about removing the casting marks and lining up the ports to match the manifold and smoothing the flow to accommodate this somewhat........nothing major at all....like artmull said
just refresh/reseat the head with maybe new oem valves
the uprated springs, cams will compliment this when you start chasing those really big figures like ep-dylan and others
ep-dylan proves the stock head is pretty good
i think unless you are looking for over 350bhp, then the fully oem/stock head is fine (untouched).....you can spend your money other places
iirc didnt spuddy make decent figures on the stock head too??
looking at the head though, i could see how a mild/modest port and polish could help a lot,,,,i'm really just talking about removing the casting marks and lining up the ports to match the manifold and smoothing the flow to accommodate this somewhat........nothing major at all....like artmull said
just refresh/reseat the head with maybe new oem valves
the uprated springs, cams will compliment this when you start chasing those really big figures like ep-dylan and others
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Phil
Super Moderator
first of all you dont need a port and polish save your money
every1 needs to stop talking about bigger valves bla bla
i dont have p nd p nor bigger valves just good cams and springs
and i have 541bhp
Yup as above if its a drag car or straight line 'street' car then its a waste of your dollar.
for race car or back road car where you have a limit to boost/turbo size then fire away, depends what you expect of your car.
Phil
gorganl2000
Lifer
lol....even 300bhp is probably too much for the road
i'd say a properly set up ep82/91 is about 200/250bhp for the road---good responsive turbo, tires, suspension and brakes.....this makes for a nice everyday car
Johnoglanza
Member +
Thanks but ill be building mine for around the 300 bhp
gorganl2000
Lifer
over the years i realized sometimes its easy to get caught up in the "hype" with that perfect wish list
you have a 5e which should be rather responsive depending on the spec......a modest turbo like a td04/td05/vf28/vf35 will see you in the 225bhp - 325bhp range and keep response----naturally assuming all the necessary supporting items are in place
these are rather light cars and overall car set up is usually much more to gain from....than just total power per say, especially if the power curve is just peaky at the end
everyone here has validated that the stock head will give you what you want for now....and these members have been around for a long time, so they know
its hard to watch people spend money in areas they dont need to....given we all work hard for our cash
but if you must, just ask around and get some quotes/prices for what you want done, i'm sure that will be an eye opener...especially when compared to what you have stated above power wise
i'd estimate cams, head work, valves, shims, labour, etc...will run you a few thousand pounds to do properly
good luck with what ever you choose to do :rockon::rockon:
you have a 5e which should be rather responsive depending on the spec......a modest turbo like a td04/td05/vf28/vf35 will see you in the 225bhp - 325bhp range and keep response----naturally assuming all the necessary supporting items are in place
these are rather light cars and overall car set up is usually much more to gain from....than just total power per say, especially if the power curve is just peaky at the end
everyone here has validated that the stock head will give you what you want for now....and these members have been around for a long time, so they know
its hard to watch people spend money in areas they dont need to....given we all work hard for our cash
but if you must, just ask around and get some quotes/prices for what you want done, i'm sure that will be an eye opener...especially when compared to what you have stated above power wise
i'd estimate cams, head work, valves, shims, labour, etc...will run you a few thousand pounds to do properly
good luck with what ever you choose to do :rockon::rockon:
Johnoglanza
Member +
Thanks very much for all the advice lads
BallıGee
Member +
John
This subject depends on how much you want too pay for better flow ?
I have one off those all singing and dancing heads and I think it's an improvement over stock !
Full boost by 4300 rpm (what ever it's set too could be 1.2 and sometimes 1.8bar
Power on my setup doesn't drop even at red line (9000rpm 5e)
If I was too do it again is just do the springs and shims that's it
Reason being its just too much power too put too the floor
This subject depends on how much you want too pay for better flow ?
I have one off those all singing and dancing heads and I think it's an improvement over stock !
Full boost by 4300 rpm (what ever it's set too could be 1.2 and sometimes 1.8bar
Power on my setup doesn't drop even at red line (9000rpm 5e)
If I was too do it again is just do the springs and shims that's it
Reason being its just too much power too put too the floor
