rough idle, running rich

dac69er

Super Moderator
Have you checked for ECU codes recently to see if that gives any clues?

Any vacuum leaks.

Has the tps been setup correctly?

Is your Ignition timing correct? Is your cam timing correct?

Alternator charging ok? All your earth's good?

Do you have any other electronic things connected? Fcd etc?

Have you tried another distributor?
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
ecu not throwing any codes
vacuum leaks checked and found some, fixed them, same thing.
tps yes i have setup following instruction from here, but ill try see again.
how to check timing (dumb question)
alternator yes charging, grounds should be okay, on to block, one to chassis right?
no other electronics connected
another distributor completely? or the cap and rotor?
 

SKINY

Lifer
I would investigate why 1 plug has a weak spark, that would cause rough idle and fuel not getting burnt hence the smell ?
 

Jay

Admin
These sorts of things are near impossible to diagnose without the car in front of you. Sounds very ignition related but I'm near sure you've already gone through all those bits?

Did you ever get the waxstat on the throttle body sorted?
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
Yes it’s difficult, since 2022 I’m having issues.
I did what I could ignition related but maybe something I didn’t check.

yes waxstat was disassembled and cleaned, made sure the pin was moving in boiling water. Then assembled it back with a new made gasket. Really desperate for help
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
ecu not throwing any codes
vacuum leaks checked and found some, fixed them, same thing.
tps yes i have setup following instruction from here, but ill try see again.
how to check timing (dumb question)
alternator yes charging, grounds should be okay, on to block, one to chassis right?
no other electronics connected
another distributor completely? or the cap and rotor?
I would go with changing the whole distributor completely.

Ground wise, yes there are 2 main ones, onto the chassis and onto the gearbox. These do get old and degrade so supplementing this with additional grounds won't hurt.

There is also a main sensor ground on the intake near the idle control valve. It bolts to one of the fixing bolts.

Could be a broken wire in the loom. Have you tried moving parts of the wiring loom about while the car is running to see if it makes it run differently?

To check timing, you link E1 and te1 like when. You do the ECU code check but start the car (when up to temperature)
You set the idle to about 700rpm and then Using a timing light, check the base ignition timing is 10 degrees btdc. You rotate the distributor to get it correct.

Also worth checking the cam timing is correct. There are timing marks for the 2 years that you can only see if you take the cam cover off. Also checking the timing marks line up with the cambelt.

From your explanation I would look at changing the distributor as that sounds more likely from your symptoms. Although the other things I mentioned won't really cost you anything to confirm.
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
so the car is not rough idling anymore but is still idling high
what I changed was my injectors again, from the new from Australia ones to my old set which I got cleaned and calibrated in 3 stages
car is iding fine.. just high.

cold 1900rpm or so
warm 1500rpm

barely jumpy.. maybe fluctuates -50/+50 rpms sometimes
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
I would go with changing the whole distributor completely.

Ground wise, yes there are 2 main ones, onto the chassis and onto the gearbox. These do get old and degrade so supplementing this with additional grounds won't hurt.

There is also a main sensor ground on the intake near the idle control valve. It bolts to one of the fixing bolts.

Could be a broken wire in the loom. Have you tried moving parts of the wiring loom about while the car is running to see if it makes it run differently?

To check timing, you link E1 and te1 like when. You do the ECU code check but start the car (when up to temperature)
You set the idle to about 700rpm and then Using a timing light, check the base ignition timing is 10 degrees btdc. You rotate the distributor to get it correct.

Also worth checking the cam timing is correct. There are timing marks for the 2 years that you can only see if you take the cam cover off. Also checking the timing marks line up with the cambelt.

From your explanation I would look at changing the distributor as that sounds more likely from your symptoms. Although the other things I mentioned won't really cost you anything to confirm.
grounds are good, both mains and the one on the iacv

one question, when the car is warm, I unplugged the iacv, there's no difference in rpms... is this normal?
 

dac69er

Super Moderator
When warm, try partially covering the hole in the throttle body just Infront of the butterfly. If you can lower your rpm via that, then it could be the stat at the bottom of the throttle body that isn't working properly and allowing more air to pass than required.
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
When warm, try partially covering the hole in the throttle body just Infront of the butterfly. If you can lower your rpm via that, then it could be the stat at the bottom of the throttle body that isn't working properly and allowing more air to pass than required.
just saw this reply, didn't get any notifications.. I'll try that and let you know. car still idles at 1600 rpm when warm, one thing tho
let's say im doing 100km/h and I go to neutral and cruise, rpm needle jumps a lot back and forth
 
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