rough idle, running rich

hmm what about engine dying when blocking that port?
Jay said or read it on another thread that it should not lower idle when it is block off when engine is warm
could be the stat has simply become stuck, in closed position, with a small leak to the open position? when was it or the throttle body itself last cleaned?
 
Hmm you have a point, I don’t think it has been cleaned before, any tips of how and with what to do so?
ofcourse. remove the entire Throttle body from the car,
grab yourself a toothbrush or similar implement, along with some degreaser, and go ham. Q tips work well for cleaning the vac ports, just be careful not to get it stuck in there :)
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
ofcourse. remove the entire Throttle body from the car,
grab yourself a toothbrush or similar implement, along with some degreaser, and go ham. Q tips work well for cleaning the vac ports, just be careful not to get it stuck in there :)
Awesome bud thanks, will give that a try tomorrow. Can I clean it with carb cleaner?
 

Jay

Admin
Would hazard a guess your valve is the issue if the book is to be believed.
 

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rid1ridz14

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Would hazard a guess your valve is the issue if the book is to be believed.
I believe that also, I don’t know where to find one in good working condition
I will try to clean mine tomorrow and see what is does, thanks Jay
 
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rid1ridz14

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Cleaned it today, that fucker was dirty af lol, got a before picture. i couldn’t separate the waxstat and the throttle body apart so I clean that port with carb cleaner and brake cleaner..
I will put back together later this week and see how it goes
 

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Cleaned it today, that fucker was dirty af lol, got a before picture. i couldn’t separate the waxstat and the throttle body apart so I clean that port with carb cleaner and brake cleaner..
I will put back together later this week and see how it goes
pro tip. the waxstat gasket has no part number. so dont mess with it too much. or its cerealbox gasket time for you.
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
Cleaned the waxstat throughly, didn’t unscrew from throttle body though, but still no luck. There was gunk inside the coolant pipes but managed to remove it. Now when I block the port, the engine still dies. I guess waxstat is no good phhff.. any more help

how to know if a waxstat is good before purchasing..?
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
i'm getting throttle body from an auto 4efte. Is it the same as the manual one? I just need to swap to my tps. The assembly is the same right? Any opinions
Also will try to change my thermostat to see if that makes any changes
 

Jay

Admin
TPS on an auto is different, it's not just an on/off signal.

Can't remember if you can just swap the manual TPS across, will have a look at the weekend.
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
okay so I need to get some confirmation on some stuff
The 2 coolant ports on the waxstat, are they suppose to be free flow, meaning for example if I blow air in one port, it should come out the other? or should they hve no connection? same for the 2 vaccuum ports
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
Hey lads im back at it
Car has been sitting for 4 months
It wasn’t starting, was just cranking

today I changed my igniter to another one I had and change spark plugs to an old set and it STARTED.
Ar first, it was smoking white(I suppose due to it being on after such a long time) but the idle was smooth, like no sputtering.
Let it idle for 5 mins, it reached normal temp all okay, gave it some throttle and boom it was back to rough idling (sputters from exhaust)

i really need some help please, it’s been over a year trying to get the car to run smooth, interior is all torn apart, and it’s running rich, burning loads of fuel
 

rid1ridz14

Member +
here is a list of what I have changed so far on the engine/car. And also a list of symptoms it is having. Please help will be appreciated @Jay

fuel system:
-injectors changed to refreshed ones (oem) bought from australia
-new pump
-new fuel filter
-swapped fpr to another oem one

-map sensor changed to another one bought from someone on here
-tps changed to brand new one from japan
-igniter changed to another one I had
-throttle body cleaned, waxstat open, cleaned and made sure the pin was moving, then added new gasket.
-air intake temp sensor changed to new one
-thermostat changed to new oem one
and some more things I can't remember rn but if you guys tell me what to check i'll know if I changed it or something


what I didn't changed in the last year
rotor arm changed in 2020
dizzy cap changed in 2020
iacv cleaned only
ignition coil never changed
spark plug wires changed twice since 2020 (running ngk wires from japan now, blue color)


symptoms:
running rich, raw fuel smell
sputtering, can be felt from exhaut
rough idle
at a red light, idle is jumpy, meaning it idle at 1250 and it goes up and down by around 50-100 rpm
shaky and jerky at low rpms, specially in first gear and second gear after releasing throttle, starts jerking
smoke when accelerating and getting in boost(running rich I suppose)
one thing I noticed earlier, I was checking for spark in each cylinder, the og method, cylinder 1,2,4 had the same amount of spark visually if that makes any sense, but cylinder 3 looked like its spark was lacking visually, like faded idk how to explain
 
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