Starlet 4efte electric connectors in engine bay.

Frankieflowers

Member +
Theres a difference between the 4efe flywheel and 4efte flywheel. Ideally you want the larger diameter turbo version that your new 212mm clutch will bolt on to.

The clutches are not interchangeable as the size difference changes the bolt pattern.

Another issue is that the 4efte automatic (or any other automatic in fact) doesn't have a flywheel. It has a very thin drive plate that links up to the automatic gearbox instead. You will be binning this plate to make way for your flywheel.

So. In short you need to find a cheap, used stock flywheel from a gt or glanza as an ideal solution.

Hope that makes sense.
I cannot find the 4efte manual flywheel OEM. Do you know it? I checked on diagrams but I cannot find the flywheel.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I found a used one for 50 pounds but plus shipment is going to cost me €130. I hope they can give me the bolts for free otherwise I’ll buy all new from Japan for €240.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Here’s my major concern.
I have the 1998 4EFE Corolla on one side and I have th 4efte ep91 automatic on the other. Both with air conditioning the Starlet with ABS. The Corolla E11 not. I have the uncut inside loom and the uncut fuse box engine bay loom and of course the ECU with loom from the Starlet.
I have spoken to a lot of people and have read tons of threads of people who did it this way or that way. All I want is to know the fastest way to do it without keeping the car sitting there too long. Besides a few issues with the engine mechanics that are the steering pump connections to keep the 4efte pump in place without cutting and welding and the front intercooler that has no space whatsoever. I’ll figure that out after I swap. I asked some guys on Facebook to send me pictures from their Corolla E11 4efte conversions to see what they did with the steering pump and AC connection. The biggest concern is the loom. Which tested procedure should I go with?
 

Jay

Admin
There is no easy answer to that last question. You have an engine and a wiring loom that was not designed to fit in this car so its not a simple plug and play solution. (If only it were!)

The current 4efe ECU will not know what to do when it sees boost for the first time. It won't add fuel or adjust timing to account for the extra air thats thrown into the mix when the turbo kicks in.

The 4efte ECU does know what to do. Only problem is that its matched to its own loom and can't use the non-turbo loom as its wired differently.

So the choices are a bit limited. You can persevere with the 4efe loom and add aftermarket management to it which will handle the boost side of things (you will definitely need to talk to a local tuner for your options) or go down the route of taking both looms and splicing them together to create a custom one.

The problem with the second route is you don't have an accurate road map for either loom and even one wrong wire and it might not start. You can understand your mechanics reluctance to start without more detail.

Quick question, how many plugs are on your current 4efe ecu? That could be a deciding factor if it isn't a 3 plug ECU.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
There is no easy answer to that last question. You have an engine and a wiring loom that was not designed to fit in this car so its not a simple plug and play solution. (If only it were!)

The current 4efe ECU will not know what to do when it sees boost for the first time. It won't add fuel or adjust timing to account for the extra air thats thrown into the mix when the turbo kicks in.

The 4efte ECU does know what to do. Only problem is that its matched to its own loom and can't use the non-turbo loom as its wired differently.

So the choices are a bit limited. You can persevere with the 4efe loom and add aftermarket management to it which will handle the boost side of things (you will definitely need to talk to a local tuner for your options) or go down the route of taking both looms and splicing them together to create a custom one.

The problem with the second route is you don't have an accurate road map for either loom and even one wrong wire and it might not start. You can understand your mechanics reluctance to start without more detail.

Quick question, how many plugs are on your current 4efe ecu? That could be a deciding factor if it isn't a 3 plug ECU.
Absolutely. I totally agree Less of the issue is to throw in the FTE ECU. The main issue is the fuse box engine bay loom. On both cars as you said some of the connectors are in the fusebox line and others in the EC you connector line. Both in different ways of course. What I want to do is to try to replace them completely but as the engine bays are different and the Corolla is bigger, I am worried that the wires will be short between connectors and for instance the insert point in the cabin might be too far away from the main block of wires. This would mean that I would extend like 60 small wires to get in the cabin. This would be crazy and also unsafe to do.
this is why I was hoping there would be a blend that someone has done before. There are some Corollas with the FDE engine But none of the owners have done the swap. They are not willing to send pictures and they don’t care. This is sad. My main point was to build a beautiful thread with all the information and pictures. If I don’t have the basic information it is going to be a nightmare.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Meanwhile I found the flywheel from England that it is secondhand but I still need to find a bolts. This was an extra issue I didn’t calculate. Now I should focus on the steering wheel pump issue and the loom issue.
 

Jay

Admin
You might find that many owners of those cars either don't know or aren't happy sharing the messier bits of their builds (let's face it custom wiring is not always photogenic). A few feel that their solutions could get stolen and remarketed as someone else's idea (happened a guy that detailed his full v6 swap zzw30 in America).

I've only ever engine swapped using the ep chassis but did consider doing a swap on a paseo. The bay is a deeper but the engine sits the same distance from the bulkhead so the engine sensor wiring is the same length but the likes of the headlamp wiring is a lot longer.

Obviously there will be differences but it might not be as big an issue as you think. You are customising the loom anyway so extending the wiring will probably be part of the process.

Its another push towards retaining the current loom and opting for aftermarket management though..
 

Jay

Admin
You're meant to renew the flywheel bolts for safety but if you're stuck im sure I have a few used sets here.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
You might find that many owners of those cars either don't know or aren't happy sharing the messier bits of their builds (let's face it custom wiring is not always photogenic). A few feel that their solutions could get stolen and remarketed as someone else's idea (happened a guy that detailed his full v6 swap zzw30 in America).

I've only ever engine swapped using the ep chassis but did consider doing a swap on a paseo. The bay is a deeper but the engine sits the same distance from the bulkhead so the engine sensor wiring is the same length but the likes of the headlamp wiring is a lot longer.

Obviously there will be differences but it might not be as big an issue as you think. You are customising the loom anyway so extending the wiring will probably be part of the process.

Its another push towards retaining the current loom and opting for aftermarket management though..
I completely understand. I started this project because of the enthusiasm I absorbed from this community and all the guys on the forums of course. I researched for over a year. I am not gonna stop.

any chance you have a FTE flywheel bolt you can measure for me in detail? There is a company nearby who gives me extra bolts. For example I got the bolts for the rear caliper brackets from them and avoided spending the shipment from Japan. I want to hope I can find them from this company.
 

Jay

Admin
Given the job they do (ie keeping a discus of death spinning at several thousand rpm a metre from your seat) i wouldn't use anything except the specific toyota bolts.

If that works loose you got proper carnage lol

Google flywheel explosions for the laugh
 
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Jay

Admin
Just thinking - the 4efe bolts are the same part number so you could always reuse your own. I've done the same on some projects without hassle. Just use the right torque setting and the specified thread lock on them.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Just thinking - the 4efe bolts are the same part number so you could always reuse your own. I've done the same on some projects without hassle. Just use the right torque setting and the specified thread lock on them.
That helps. I bought new bolts from the UK so it’s gonna cost me an extra 20 pounds.

@RoyalDutchie said that the second hand flywheel should get some work done before using it on a new clutch. Can you be more specific about what I should do? I guess it’s about closing the gap‘s for the balance to avoid vibrations. If this cost too much then I should have bought the new flywheel from Japan. I had it with the balls in the basket for €240. No I spent 130 pounds for a used one and 20 pounds for the bolts. What do you think? Thanks
 

Jay

Admin
With the used unit you would check the surface for flatness, wear or damage.

I've thrown a lot out as they can suffer from heat fractures resulting from clutch issues/driving style.

You could get a substandard one skimmed and lightened but its a specialist job for an engineer.

Given the choice of the two options I'd choose new. For all the difference in price you would have the confidence of installing a new, unblemished unit.
 

RoyalDutchie

Member +
I indeed advice to resurface it if required, the mechanic you are working with should be able to determine this. As Jay said there are some risk with second hand flywheels.

@Jay I did throw the option out there, to maybe get a stage one organic rated at 200nm for the 4efe flywheel, as an alternative to the current path of going with a 4efte flywheel and blue print standard relplacement clutch. With standard power the 4efe flywheel should cope well with the uprated exedy clutch. They go for about 180gbp, maybe 200 euros imported to Europe. Then again resurfacing can be a requirement depending on the flywheel.

Link:
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/exedy...a-corolla-starlet-4a-geu-2e-telu-4e-fe-f.html
 

Jay

Admin
Yes, would be an option however the larger clutch was already purchased I think. The engine supplier has thrown Frankie a bit of a curve ball by sending an automatic 4efte which has its silver linings too.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I indeed advice to resurface it if required, the mechanic you are working with should be able to determine this. As Jay said there are some risk with second hand flywheels.

@Jay I did throw the option out there, to maybe get a stage one organic rated at 200nm for the 4efe flywheel, as an alternative to the current path of going with a 4efte flywheel and blue print standard relplacement clutch. With standard power the 4efe flywheel should cope well with the uprated exedy clutch. They go for about 180gbp, maybe 200 euros imported to Europe. Then again resurfacing can be a requirement depending on the flywheel.

Link:
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/exedy...a-corolla-starlet-4a-geu-2e-telu-4e-fe-f.html
Thank you. I am talking to some people for the resurfacing process. It shouldn’t be a problem. It will take some time. I paid for the 212 mm clutch like €99.
 
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