Timing belt and water pump guide *

Right, set out to do the timing belt on my car as per my garage post, here's a little guide how to do the belt, and the water pump.

Note this may not be the perfect way at all (very likely tbh) but it worked for me. But constructive opinions are always welcomed as it's really to help folk who are thinking of attempting to do it themselve. Car is standard for the purpose of this guide really.

Also since I was doing a few things at once, it may not all be relevent. And I was busy actually getting annoyed doing the work so pictures might not be to hot lol

Tools I used:
10mm socket
12mm socket
12mm deep reach socket
14mm socket
19mm socket
Pulley holder
Hammer (decent heavy hammer, not a shitty joiner hammer I had!!)
Punch
10mm spanner
12mm spanner
14mm spanner
Hydraulic jack

Firstly, I did the usual, jack up the car and take off the splash gaurds. Thats quite obvious so I never took any pics

Right, here we have the engine funilly enough:
IMG00483.jpg


Once the car was jacked up on axle stands and the wheels removed (only really need one but I was swapping out the passenger drive shaft and changing box oil so took them both off) I drained the coolent. Along the bottom of the radiator there is a bleed valve, and on the bottom under the bleed valve is where it comes out. No pics of that unfortunately.

Once coolent was bled, I set about removing the solenoid for the hi-lo boost button. Bolt that holds the actual solenoid on the engine mount is 12mm.
Then remove the 3 vac pipes as well and the metal parts of them. They are also held on by a 12mm bolt.

Then I set about removing the power steering belt and aux belt. The power steering tension is a 12mm bolt which is located near the oil filter:
IMG00487.jpg

There is also 2 more 12mm bolts holding the powersteering pulley tight. One acessable from underneath:
IMG00493.jpg

the other from the top: (To the left of the dump valve)
IMG00481.jpg


Removing the alternator belt is a bit awkward as well due to beiong located at the back. The tensioner bolt is another 12mm bolt down behind the inlet mani:
IMG00484.jpg

And you also need to slacken off the 14mm bolts on the bottom of the alternator which attach it to the block:
IMG00485.jpg


That should be both belts off now to help give you a little more access.

Next I removed the upper timing belt cover. This is held on by 4 10mm bolts. Some are a total bitch to get to. Unfortunately I never took pictures of this.

What you should do now, is give the engine a turnover by hand so that the timing marks on the crank pulley match with the markings on the lower timing belt cover:
IMG00503.jpg

The top should look like this, with the 4e hole in the cam sprocket lined up with the little dot in the head, unfortunately it's not great to see in the picture as I forgot to and when looking, the washer bottle got in the way!:
IMG00502.jpg


Once you have got it at top dead centre, you can remove the crank pulley.
First you remove the bolt (19mm), to do this I used a locking tool that has 2 bolts that hold the pulley, in the pic you can see the 2 holes even spaced opersite sides on the pulley:
IMG00486.jpg


To remove the pulley I hit it with a hammer, it never came off so I tried a pulley puller but the legs just chipped at the outside, so I kept hitting it and damaged it lol So I got a bigger hammer and a punch and it came off in seconds. (note this is not a good way to do it, a pulley puller would be better, not one like I used though) and I got a replacement pullet from Mark (cheers bud).

Once the pulley is removed you need to remove the lower timing belt cover. Again these are 10mm bolts that hold it on and there are 4 of them. Again quite awkward to get at.

Once that is off, you see the guts of it. What I did was remove the tensioner off it's spring and removed the timing belt and the tensioner that is spring loaded and the idler pulley. This was to give me as much space as possible to get at the water pump. Unfortunately I never took pics of that part :(

To get the water pump out, located here:
IMG00488.jpg

I removed all 4 10mm bolts that I could see, then found out one was behind the engine mount, stupid design! So for changing it, you should remove the engine mount and bracket first.
These are the points it's mounted at:
IMG00492.jpg

They are all 14mm ones except the one that is close to the dip stick holding the alternator tension adjustment bit and the one underneath the engine mount, that's a nut is a 12mm one, you will need a deep reach socket for that, which I never had to start with!
IMG00491.jpg

Also make sure you remove the hidden one as I never knew it was there until it wouldn't drop off it's mount! The one at the top of the 3 located in the recess:
IMG00494.jpg

Also make sure to have a jack under the engine, use a jack with a bit of wood if your jack doesn't have a rubber mat bit.
Off the mount here:
IMG00489.jpg


Once that is off you can access the 5th bolt of the water pump, how it looks like with the pump out and mount removed:
IMG00495.jpg

Throw in the new pump, remember to use the new gasket and clean up the old one off the surface so it's a nice tight fit and thats out of the way at least :)

Now back to the timing belt, what the area looks like with no tensioner or pulley just so you know:
IMG00490.jpg

when refitting, what I did was fit from the crank bit, counter clockwise. So this was - Crank - oil pump - round idler pulley - cam sprocket - spring tensioned pulley back to crank since it's a belt!
If fitting new spring loaded tensioner and pulley, they are 12mm bolts that hold them in.
When fitting, I didn't fit like that to start with so everytime I let the spring tension it, it was moving the timing out, so that doubled the time it took to do this, as I thought I had it right and the car wouldn't start and had it all built up again! So when you have the belt on, but not tensioned, make sure all the slack is on the spring loaded tensioner side or it will move the cam sprocket or crank. The way I fiited the spring loaded tensioner was the spring first, then attach it to the bit it sits on, then tighten the bolt that holds it.
Once belt is on and the tensioner bolts and idler pulley have been tightened again, double check timing marks on the block and crank match up and the head and the cam pulley (the 4e hole in the cam sprocket and the dot on the head again).
Only have a picture of the crank one though, it's a little indent on the crank lines up with like a triangle on the block:
IMG00505.jpg

IMG00504.jpg

not sure how clear the pics are, damn camera flash comes on automatically.

Once the belt is tight under the spring loaded tension and the timing marks match up, give it 2 turns of the crank to make sure it's all good. This is to make sure there isn't slack that will put it out once it starts (I never did this first time so learn from someone elses mistakes!) To do this I mounted the crank pulley to turn it by hand. If thats fine and after 2 turns of the crank pulley (that is one full cycle of the engine) then it's a case of throw it all back together in reverse of how you took it off. If not pull off belt and check timing is fine and retension again and try the 2 turns of the crank again.

The hardest part of it all was getting the engine back on the mounts as I couldn't remove the bolt that holds the mount into the wing. But how I did it was get 2 mates round, one to operate jack and lift engine, one to push the engine back, and one to bend the mount into lining up with the engine due to the dowels that line up and the bolt that faces downwards.

Think thats it but I'm writing this in hind sight and I have literally just finished so not that sharp just now!


Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing it themselves. Like I said this is how I did it, might not be perfect but it worked :p

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

** I don't mind people cutting and pasting this information - in fact I take it as flattery but I will make two small requests.

1. Copy the complete post and do not make inaccurate amendments.
2. Post a proper reference to your source of information (ie. THIS website: www.toyotagtturbo.com)
 
Last edited:

davehart

Member +
Great guide but I think I'll let my local garage do that as I'd be there all day and get fucked off with all the fiddly bolts :)
 
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