Thank you for your time. Looking at how you put the vacuum lines on the floor I can see my whole circuit. What I do not see is the vacuum pump. So I followed the pictures and I have the VSV on the left and on the right as the picture I sent you two days ago with the yellow marks on both sides of the engine. Those have 2 air hoses. The main bracket with an electric wire that goes to the high-voltage ignition coil has the two pipes that go in the throttle and in the inlet. What I still don’t figure out are the other two pipes that go in the rpm vacuum input that I miss because of course my car is different. The two pipes that go in the steering wheel pump on the Corolla I would like to keep that functionThis is no doubt going to confuse matters but anyhow..
Built my own from a box of spares, these are EP82 but same basics:
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Pipe to the charcoal canister connects here (the bigger one connects to the fuel vapour hard pipe from the tank):
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This skinny line heads up to the Y-piece :
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Then the shorter line goes to the throttle body feed:
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The other one goes to the VSV valve:
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The the return line from the VSV valve heads to the back of the inlet manifold:
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I can see a few issues on a wrong hand drive model, that brake servo and the pedals sit in the way of some of these bits.
The good thing is you can take all of the above, hold it really tightly and then fling it at the nearest bin - they aren't technically needed unless you have emissions concerns.
Thank you. Yes, I don’t want to let them loose. I honestly don’t want to buy a Starlet steering vacuum pump. The first idea was to adopt the Corolla steering pump to the FTE But when I had them in my hands in front of the engine things became more complicated.I will attempt the same thing with the throttle valve and vacuum block for you. Just a matter of digging out an inlet after work.
The 4efe pump will foul on the turbo and oil filter. You will need to use the 4efte power steering pump. This may mean swapping the vacuum pipes to the rack as per the starlet setup but we can investigate. Its no biggie to run without them tbh but may as well try to retain them.
Interesting. This means that those two air hoses on the back of the inlet are the cause of the RPM meter jumping?Is it revving on its own?
That'll be a vacuum leak. You will need to block all the open air holes on the inlet and throttle body.
You can attach the various valves and air lines after (if you feel the need for them).
Thank you for all your help and pictures. Maps and Sarah should be fine. I am traveling today but yesterday we finally went for the first test drive. Rpm is still a little shaky. We closed the RPM pipes as you suggested. My boys will complete the work this week. I had to go to DJ in SardiniaI sincerely hope I get this all right..
So from the ignitor bracket I've used a gold braided hose to link the long pipe to the back of the inlet:
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The first of our air lines on the throttle valve I've used red to connect it to the vacuum block:
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That black line in that pic goes from the vacuum block to the power steering port:
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and that other steering line heads up to the throttle body (black pipe not the one with wrap on it):
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At this point just to recap, we have the air lines on the throttle connected to vacuum sources. Not any coolant sources. Sorry to repeat it but a number of guys have been caught out.
So we just have the two coolant pipes to put on the throttle valve now, one goes to the hard pipe for the coolant pump, it's the one with white plastic wrap:
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Then the other one (angled slightly):
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Heads down into the thermostat housing. I can't seem to find a spare one lying about but here it is on a car, it's tucked deep below the fuel rail:
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I'm hoping that you've already figured out the MAP sensor, idle stabilization valve and vacuum feed for the fuel rail. If not it's no worry, can grab a few pics tomorrow.