Zisco ct9 Ms ram horn manifold

Frankieflowers

Member +
Hey guys. I kept researching and trying to figure out the best move. In the meanwhile I bought a HKS SLD that I thought I would need but I will not because the Det3 has the same integrated function. So I didn’t even open the box. If anyone is interested!

I am about to buy the Det 3. My brother is preparing the wiring with the fresh connectors. My questions are about The air filter EFI relocation and the default parameters settings that cannot be found anywhere. I spoke to a few guys in Sri Lanka on the ECU master Facebook group and they would provide a base map but I just need the basic parameters and the engineer will do the rest on the Dyno.

Sasha from Sri Lanka will sell me the relocation exhaust kit for ct9 with the oil pipe. He told me that I will have to cut one of the two waterlines on the turbo in order to fit an extra pipe. He told me that of course I will have to relocate the air filter and it would be wise to clock the turbo 90° facing the floor to get closer to the front mount intercooler. I am not very sure about clocking the turbo. I would prefer to build a new pipe that goes underneath the hot pipe straight to the air filter next to the battery.

I hope you can give me a few pieces of advice to save money.

At the moment I am looking at $950 for the exhaust kit with an external TIAL 38 mm wastegate from Germany for about €370. The Det 3 is gonna cost me €250 from Poland
 

Skalabala

Member +
Just DIY everything. Are you using EMU black ecu? They are not too bad but afaik the tech support is not the best.
For the base map setup just get a tuner to team viewer you.
Some advice, get rid of the CT9.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
Just DIY everything. Are you using EMU black ecu? They are not too bad but afaik the tech support is not the best.
For the base map setup just get a tuner to team viewer you.
Some advice, get rid of the CT9.
Thank you for your peace of advice. My point is simple. I like how the engine runs on stock setup because the power is well distributed. I get boost around 2500 RPM. For what I have read so far changing the turbo with on this 1.3 L small engine will higher boost kick in around 3700 and this means that I will have to run higher RPM for a daily drive. Yes it is all about daily drive. I would do modifications to run extra 30 hp. Right now boost kicks in around 2500 exactly where it is needed and the engine keeps giving power up to 7000+. It is very fun and there is no loss in between. I don’t want a dragster. I want to power down low that helps the small engine. Please explain me what should be done to get the same feeling spending thousands of euros to replace the exhaust manifold, buy a waste gate and relocate everything to fit all these parts with a new turbo. Yesterday I drove a Toyota GR 1.6 L 3 cylinder that has been modified with a new turbo, special developed Bilstein coil overs and air filter mod. The engine has 320 hp at 7k RPM. Manual gearbox. it was very fun driving it. This whole toy costs 45,000+ all the special designed modifications that would be at least €15,000. After driving it I went back to my Corolla with my FTE engine. I was happy. Of course the power is less but the feeling is amazing. I told this story because I believe that the feeling is all you pay for. When someone will make me drive a starlet with a powerful engine that can run boost below 3000 RPM and has a progressive feeling up to the limit then I will spend the money to replicate the monster.
 

Skalabala

Member +
I also hate boost lag, this is why I go with higher compression.
If you slap a small TD04 on a 4EFTE with 5EFE pistons you will have your dream setup :)
Also a good tunable ECU will gain you turbo spool time and piping.
I just hate the CT9 because of the shitty stock manifold. A CT9 has a big exhaust side vs its cold side, this is why they make successful hybrids.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
I also hate boost lag, this is why I go with higher compression.
If you slap a small TD04 on a 4EFTE with 5EFE pistons you will have your dream setup :)
Also a good tunable ECU will gain you turbo spool time and piping.
I just hate the CT9 because of the shitty stock manifold. A CT9 has a big exhaust side vs its cold side, this is why they make successful hybrids.
Here’s the setup I would buy keep my ct939E0E764-999E-41ED-A529-206934A8F8CA.jpeg at
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
If you slap a small TD04 on a 4EFTE with 5EFE pistons you will have your dream setup
Can you please tell me more about this modification? Isn’t the diameter different?

I found this thread. It seems that the 5E has three different pistons. What would be the gain in putting a 5E piston into a FTE? Which one should it be? I should buy them new and get The cylinders rectified.

https://www.toyotagtturbo.com/commu...ft-comparison-for-5efe-5efhe-and-4efte.83088/
 
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Skalabala

Member +
You want to use the one with the small dome.
This will increase performance right through the rev range. About 1-2hp without a turbo. And then about 10% torque.
It is important to know that you must use a stand alone ECU if you do this and don't use a CT9 with this mod.
 

Frankieflowers

Member +
You want to use the one with the small dome.
This will increase performance right through the rev range. About 1-2hp without a turbo. And then about 10% torque.
It is important to know that you must use a stand alone ECU if you do this and don't use a CT9 with this mod.
it’s interesting but I see it as a fine upgrade. If I will change pistons it will be to forge the engine in order to get 300+ HP. But that is something I will do after the European economy recession that is kicking in. I will see what will happen in September and eventually buy the exhaust relocation kit and the Det 3. My brother just repaired the new connectors that I will use to install it. I am still looking for a base map but the only help I found is in Sri Lanka for about $120. I shall pay my tuner to do it.
 
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