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It is for sure not an N/A geabox. Turbo boxes have this cast cover on the 5th gear, N/A have stamped steel

You would need a stepper motor drive controller... i suppose these are stepper motors... Not a bad concept... bat if not to use something like tranction control or cruise control, then there's not much point to do it... Maybe an arduino solution...

There is a system called "TAC module" used on some GM cars, that controls the DBW throttle by itself, without the need for the ECU to do something... If for some reason someone wanted to use DBW, he could probably try this... pedal, module and throttle body. Otherwise you will need a high-end...

What is your fueling at around 500rpm? You can add some ignition advance at this point, but it won't be as effective as adding fuel. My idle at 1000rpm needs about 1.6ms, while at 500 rpm it does up to 2ms to help catch it and not stall.

Did you removed the stock regulator?

Running an FCD and an AFC is contradicting. Both "cheat" the stock MAP signal. FCD clamps is near boost cut and so the engine is "underfueled" above that. AFC can change the signal at various points, but if you need to add fuel then it will tell the ecu that the MAP signal is higher than...

The tps is for auto TB or it's modded for the D shaped shaft of the manual engine?

The stock tach is getting it's signal from ig-, so maybe it's not the connection the problem

82-92 is the range mine is running...

Check for leaks. Use a flammable spray like carb cleaner and spray around the engine bay and look for rpm changes...

You are losing vacuum somewhere... 0.4 is low... you should be around 0.7 normally and when on ac it should increase a litle bit. What's your idle rpm?

Starlets have to be a little lower than stock. Otherwise front geometry is badly affected. Raise it so that when on ground the shock is 1/3 of its usable travel compressed. Also be sure you assemble the kit correctly as in the pic I see a plastic washer for the spring just slid over the shock...

Maybe I didn't put it correctly. The stock injectors, even with slight pressure increase, will operate at very high duty cycle, so it's not the best for them. But try increasing the pressure and monitor with the wideband

1bar on TD is about 220hp? Should be on the limit of stock injectors, even with light increase in fuel pressure. But bigger injectors like 440cc will need some sort of management. Maybe a safc will manage it.

There's no point going for 330 injectors... Use stock and increase fuel pressure. The stock ecu will run most injectors at 14.7 idle and cruising, as it's on close loop.

Maybe a vacuum leak? I had a 4mm hose loose on air and idle vacuum was the same, although i lost about 0.2bar of boost.

I think TRD should sell them. Otherwise you can make a shim to preloaded the system. But it should be very very thin, less than half a millimeter and absolutely flat.

I really don't think it should be stiffer... I actually going to run it with some of the plates "deactivated". You should however use different belleville spring to add initial prepload.

This is my N/A / EP71 turbo trd mechanical diff. Hope it helps. https://www.dropbox.com/sc/38vw5hjw1hqaxr9/SWP51NDslL

Looks fine to me...