4EFE vs 4EFTE engine block differences for forged engine build.

Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Djaniero said:
I'm still yet to strip down the 4EFE I bought recently, but some if the Irish lads on the bookface group were having a debate over the crank differences in the 4e a couple of weeks back.
Some said the the cranks were the same, while others said the 4EFTE crank was stamped as 4ET.

I was watching this video earlier of someone stripping down a 4EFE an the crank is actually marked as 4ET, so looks like it is the same as the turbo crank?

(FF to 7mins 37secs)
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Is this you in the video stripping doen the FE in a Corolla trunk?
 
Djaniero

Djaniero

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Frankieflowers said:
Hi guys.

I went to the machine shop. They advised not to use M 10 head studs to avoid trimming the head to make space for the bolts. The other thing they said is that in their opinion Maxsppedingrods our a bad Chinese con rod. They say that they can be safe max 250 HP. I was surprise about this because I read everywhere that they are good products, and so on. I already bought them and I’m not gonna change my mind.

I need someone to confirm that welding AN10 nipples on the FE rocket head will work the same as doing the same job on the FTE rocket head.
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Thats interesting perspective on the m10 head studs. I actually didn't plan on using them only because my builder said they wouldn't be nessessary for my 280-300bhp goals.
My builder also said similar things about the MS rods, which i was suprised about as I assumed most of the H beam style rods were similar the same.
Did they say the block will need notching with the MS rods?
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Djaniero said:
Did they say the block will need notching with the MS rods?
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Yes they did but I will have more precise information when I will receive the pistons from England and I will buy bearings, head bolts and main studs.
In the meantime, they are checking the crankshaft, boring the cylinders and skimming the basement. Same thing for the engine head. Actually, they asked me to give them the pistons to be sure they will bore the cylinders properly. I will provide them everything probably at the end of January as everything is so expensive.
I still can’t process the fact that these Conrads are not the best for a forged engine. SCAT rods are better? They look alike. I even read that.someone soesn’t like SCAT rods…so what’s the deal???
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Djaniero said:
I'm intrigued to see what crank I will have inside mine
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Funny thing I did everything besides checking whether if my 4E crank is FTE or not. Do you know why? I don’t care because that’s what is going to go in the engine regardless, if it is lighter or not. Everybody says that these engines are over engineered so the crank shaft will probably just be lighter but not weaker.. Conrads are the most stressed, and now that I know that Maxpeedingrods aren’t considered good for over 250 hp the last thing I am worried about is the crankshaft. If you know what I mean.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

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Another thing we could discuss about are the uprated valve springs. Some people say they are necessary if you go beyond 200 hp. Others say that fte stock valve springs are fine.
TD sells their own for about €260 but there are other suppliers in AU and US. I found a dealer that sells the springs with the titanium retainers for about $320. Is it worth it? Is it necessary for 250-320 hp?
 
daniel_g

daniel_g

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I wouldn't worry too much about the conrods. Yes they are cheap and you can spend x3 as much on different ones.

But any forged conrod is not the weak link in a 4e engine.

Matty_gt runs the maxspeeding conrods at 370+ bhp.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
daniel_g said:
I wouldn't worry too much about the conrods. Yes they are cheap and you can spend x3 as much on different ones.

But any forged conrod is not the weak link in a 4e engine.

Matty_gt runs the maxspeeding conrods at 370+ bhp.
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Thank you. I am waiting for the Wossner 74.5 flat pistons for TD. The head will be shimmed and the basement as well. Probably 0.3/4 total. I want to install a 1.2 with 75 bore Cometic. What do you think?
The machine shop said they prefer not to notch the head to fit head studs. So it will be ARP head bolts. I aim max 350 hp. Will it work or should I tell them to do the modification anyway?
 
daniel_g

daniel_g

Member +
The Cometic headgasket will be perfect.

So not everyone is comfortable with modifying the head and block. They'll have their reasons, mistakes can happen and spares hard to get.

The ARP bolts have been proven to work at your power goals.
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
daniel_g said:
The Cometic headgasket will be perfect.

So not everyone is comfortable with modifying the head and block. They'll have their reasons, mistakes can happen and spares hard to get.

The ARP bolts have been proven to work at your power goals.
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Thank you Daniel.

Out of topic for a minute.

I wanted to share what happened to my engine in the last few weeks.
Suddenly the noise of the engine changed. It happened when I disconnected the PCV to pop it in the canister. It didn’t work as planned. The engine started to smoke, and I immediately put the pipe back in the inlet. I solved it quickly.
Yeah, the thing I did was installing the BEE R Rev Limiter i bought from Japan. The idea was to try it and use it as a limiter at 6500 rpm. Not to bang at a parking lot.
I also went to the track and did 30 minutes at the limit. The sound of the engine was already different but the perfomance was good. It started to gain turbo lag after.
In my head I thought that testing the rev limiter did actually damage the turbo and so I couldn’t hear its normal turbulence, and the exhaust was sounding more like an aspirated engine. Wierd.
The engine runs well, and there is no obstruction in the intake.
End of the story, I swapped the turbo with an identical, fresh machined hybrid CT9. It didn’t change that much and actually the sound is the same. Ineill send out the turbo to be checked but it looks fine. What happened?
 
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SKINY

SKINY

Lifer
My pcv valve is blocked off at the manifold and from the rocker cover vented to air beside the gearbox, I did connect it properly 1 time but it smoked like Bob marley so swapped it back.
Fuck knows why it did that tho lol :)
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
SKINY said:
My pcv valve is blocked off at the manifold and from the rocker cover vented to air beside the gearbox, I did connect it properly 1 time but it smoked like Bob marley so swapped it back.
Fuck knows why it did that tho lol :)
Click to expand...
so ypu had the opposite problem? The valve closes when inlet is on boost and opens when crank pressure pushes on it. It won’t open without inlet depression. .
 
Frankieflowers

Frankieflowers

Member +
Hey @daniel_g how are you?
I’m thinking about which valve spring set I should buy. TD sells them for about €263 without titanium retainers. I found a kit that includes titanium retainers in the US for about €320. What do you think? They all say I should upgrade if I aim +300 hp.
 
daniel_g

daniel_g

Member +
Frankieflowers said:
Hey @daniel_g how are you?
I’m thinking about which valve spring set I should buy. TD sells them for about €263 without titanium retainers. I found a kit that includes titanium retainers in the US for about €320. What do you think? They all say I should upgrade if I aim +300 hp.
Click to expand...

Hi mate. I bought the kit from the US, springs and retainers. Here are a couple of pictures. I thought it would be best to fit as a set.
 

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