Adjusting Biting Point Help?

[DavidAshton]

For whatever reason my biting point has slowly worked its way up the clutch pedal and now its pretty much at the top of the pedal. Guess it must be the clutch wearing down?

I have read you can adjust the bite via the clutch pedal itself. Had a lil look just now and can see a rod through the pedal, bolts either side, so im guessing its this that alters it on the pedal.

Question is, do I bring the rod further out towards the rear of the car or do i push it in towards the front of the car to make the bite lower down the clutch pedal?

Also whilst I am here is there anything to look for in the engine bay that could be contributing to the biting point movement that I could look out for?

 

[clarkytrd]

Dont think they are adjustable mate!

 

[DavidAshton]

Im 100% certain they are from reading previous posts on here and uksc, just cant find which way to adjust this rod?

 

[clarkytrd]

hydraulic clutch?!

can adjust mechanical clutches no problem by adjusting the cable on the box.

what can ya adjust on a hydraulic, all it is is fluid in a cylinder?!

 

[Texx]

You can only adjust the pedal hight and free play. You could probably mess around with it, but your likely to end up having a lot of free play in the pedal to make the biting point seem further down. If the clutch biting point is right at the top of the pedals travel, then the clutch likely needs replacing.

 

[DavidAshton]

Hmmmm maybe I have mis interpreted what I have read then?

Ill have a mess and see what adjusting this rod does.

 

[Texx]

If you adjust the push rod make sure your left with approx 10mm of free play when your finished, you may have to adjust the pedal hight to gain the free play. If the pedal has no free play it could cause the slave cylinder to ride the clutch and result in the clutch over heating and slipping/burning out. If the push rod is adjusted to an excessive length it could bottom out in the master cylinder and rip the seals out.

If the clutch pedal rests at a similar hight to the brake pedal and has 5-15mm play before any resistance from the master cylinder is felt, then it shouldn't be adjusted. You can't 'adjust out' a worn clutch.

 

[DavidAshton]

Thanks for your help Texx, after reading that i think ill probably leave it and just get as much use as I can out of it.

Just to get things clear in my head what do you mean by 'free play'?

 

[Texx]

Free play is the distance of travel between the rest point of the pedal and where the resistance of the master cylinder is felt.

The below is from the MR2 manual, but the principle is the same.

 

[DavidAshton]

Cheers dude, makes it all clear and as I though you meant.

My pedal clutch is inline with the brake, has 10 or so mm free play, so there is no point adjusting it as you say?

The clutch disengaging 5mm after the free play is just it being worn down?

 

[Texx]

The clutch disengaging 5mm after the free play is just it being worn down?

More than likely mate. TBH if the clutch is doing it's job OK without slipping I'd keep driving it until it gets worse.