can you run td04 on standard internals

Phil

Super Moderator
nah nah, your words good enough im sure.

so a bent gt rod... hmmm wasnt a 95 gt/gt advance?

Phil
 

Starbus

Member +
and it was bent, not broken?

if so its the first ive ever heard of, but im happy to hear of it, only here for the info.

Phil

I've got a full set of "Banana rods" on my garage wall of fail. This IMO is when you know the limit, when all 4 conrods have bent pretty much equally and not 1 has gone through the side of the block etc (we rebuilt the engine and it again) This is because the rods did bend from too much boost, on this particular engine it was 23psi with a compression ratio of 11:1. There was no detonation just too high cylinder pressures and a combination of driving events that eventually caused the "failure" this is what happens when the map is "correct".

To GT-TD04, I came on here from "this side of the world" but I can't really agree with the lads from the other side "NZ" in this case, because what there saying is correct. The lads from this side of the world sadly seem to have had lots of bad experiences. I've seen map's from well known "good tuners" that would be ok for a built proof engine but will soon cause failure on a stock engine with a bigger turbo.
 

Johnny_C

Lifer
i dont trust the glanza rods with my experience,its all very well that some of you run big boost on standard engines and they last,but i would just have to see it with my own eyes to believe it.
im im ever over that side of the world,ill give yous a shout!:p
that ep71 is tasty.
 

Phil

Super Moderator
a full set of banana gt rods starbus?

the engine you talking about i assume is a turbo'd honda?

this is all very interesting info, ok it doesnt concern me as im forged up when i blew up before so im good to go, but good for anyone else reading.

think it was hybrid that run stock rods with ross forged pistons and just kept the revs done, on a big turbo and big boost.

Phil
 

iamrab

Member +
i love reading threads like this soo much information .

there was a lad ina mag a while back who owned an mr2 turbo a white on and it was running over 400hp on a totally standard engine never been opened,i also know of a uk impreza turbo that is running over 370hp again totally standard engine never been apart and the best of it is it has 170k on the clock ,its get dragged all the time and it only ever brakes gearbox's.

its all down to the fueling and timing no question about it tho i cannot give serious evidence nor am i willing to do it to my own car lol im going to run a td04 on my car on stardard internals.
 

Starbus

Member +
a full set of banana gt rods starbus?

the engine you talking about i assume is a turbo'd honda?

this is all very interesting info, ok it doesnt concern me as im forged up when i blew up before so im good to go, but good for anyone else reading.

think it was hybrid that run stock rods with ross forged pistons and just kept the revs done, on a big turbo and big boost.

Phil

Yes turbo honda,

The ross pistons will have only helped by lowering the compression making it "harder" to make a mess of mapping it.

i love reading threads like this soo much information .

there was a lad ina mag a while back who owned an mr2 turbo a white on and it was running over 400hp on a totally standard engine never been opened,i also know of a uk impreza turbo that is running over 370hp again totally standard engine never been apart and the best of it is it has 170k on the clock ,its get dragged all the time and it only ever brakes gearbox's.

its all down to the fueling and timing no question about it tho i cannot give serious evidence nor am i willing to do it to my own car lol im going to run a td04 on my car on stardard internals.

We'r running that on an n/a Mr2 :) Also done 450+ on an n/a supra engine, 400+ on loads of stock honda's. 250+ on stock Glanza's. 400+ on stock evo's 450+ on stock Vauxhall C20Xe's. etc etc. :)
 

finx

Member +
i dont trust the glanza rods with my experience,its all very well that some of you run big boost on standard engines and they last,but i would just have to see it with my own eyes to believe it.
im im ever over that side of the world,ill give yous a shout!:p
that ep71 is tasty.

fair enough, stick with what you feel comfortable with doing and have the means of achieving.
were not saying that every set up is able to acheive the results or boost/internal cylinder pressures some have managed to acheive. its self explanatory that all the right parts are needed in the right places for it to happen, and its not an easy feat either.
the gt rods are defiantly thicker/bigger ill give you that, and most would say thats great enough cause to call them stronger. but at the end of the day any rod is just as susceptible to the same cause of failure as another if run under the same circumstances. being half a mm or so thicker wont stop them from braking due the same cause the weaker rod went.
the stock rods can take a fair whack of abuse and revs, it comes down to whats happening in the upper cylinder and how much you are asking of them.
as Starbus has demonstrated snaped rods normally mean something has gone wrong before you have reached the rods absolute potential. when you have a pair or set of bent rods you know you have reached the most they have to give.

which ep71?
 
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There's your problem...

Fueling can be perfect but if your timing curve is completely wrong for the boost/turbo you're running then you're going to run into problems. Problems in this case being detonation and an exploding engine. As I understand it the PFC F-CON is a map sensor type intercept piggyback computer, it 'tricks' the stock ECU into fueling correctly. What it doesn't take into account is that if the stock ecu is 'seeing' 0.8 bar and it's actually at 1.2 on a larger turbo it's going to be advancing the timing a LOT more than is desirable.

TUNING ISN'T JUST FUEL.

This is why piggybacks are rubbish and should never be used for anything over a relatively small boost pressure increase.

You're welcome to your opinion, but I'm afraid it's a fact - Glanza rods can and have held over 350bhp for extended periods, just because yours didn't doesn't mean they all can't.

this is well said....if i could rep u with a million points i would for the above quote:cool:
we have to realise that tuning fuel is NOT going to do it in a lot of cases/builds/projects....things like safc, f-con (i am not too clue on this device, but seems from readings above that its ONLY a fuel controller--correct me if i'm wrong:cool:), etc....which only control fuel by altering the stock signal in some way, also affect the stock timing

now to counter this, you may have to sacrifice a few points on the base timing (retard base timing), as some guys with high compression 5efhte builds do....this is usually one of the ways around this issue, BUT u may not get the most out of the engine

at minimum, its good to have a "reputable" piggyback (a standalone will do this too, naturally:cool: ) which allows the tuner to cover BOTH ignition and fuel....this will help save your engine from detonation at various points along the curve...which will in turn save your rods/pistons/crank/bearings from excessive loads due to pre-ignition. Also, running overly rich mixtures to protect the engine is not usually the best way to run optimal power either, as done in some instances. Yes it can save the engine, but you also need to be careful here too, as too rich is a bad thing and can cause engine damage.

"tricking" the stock ecu may not be in your best interest if it is not done "properly/safely",.....when this is done poorly, we are really tricking ourselves and eventually we may see the trick back fire on us---time to go to toyota or scrap yard for engine/parts

wouldn't you just hate it when/if the stock ecu calls your bluff??:haha::freddy::haha:
 
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