southwalesgt
Member +
Thought I'd post this up incase anyone needed to know how to do this.
My car had developed a small misfire recently and was feeling quite sluggish so i decided to buy the following:
1. NGK Iridium heat 6 Spark plugs (4)
2. Distributor cap and rotor arm
3. Magnecor 8-series Blue HT leads
And before I go any further I'd like to recommend Camskill.com as thats where I sourced the parts from. Toyota wanted £220.00 for all oem parts, Camskill came to £146.96p for the lot, and the plugs and leads are uprated ones.
Time needed - An hour
Tools needed - socket set (8mm,10mm,11mm, 12mm and a 10mm Spark plug socket attachment), Phillips and flathead screwdriver.
Ok To make a start you have to remove the TMIC (If you have FMIC then disregard this section although you may need to remove some piping to gain access to dizzie) To do this there are two bolts above, and two bolts below the TMIC holding onto the mounting brackets. Remove these four bolts and remove the earth cable situated on the mounting bracket below the TMIC.
Once these have been removed, undo the two clips holding the two pipes running into and from the TMIC and pull the TMIC out of the two pipes.
You can now gain access to all four spark plugs and leads. Also worth checking (mine was loose) is the PCV valve situated underneath the TMIC.
Next remove the clip holding the induction piping from airbox (induction kit) that runs to the join just before the 'EFI' badge on the intake pipes just after the 'S' bend in the pipe. This will give you better access to the Distributor cap and lead ends as these can be a bit difficult to remove/fit due to the 'clip' design on post 92reg cars. (People have said before these can snap whilst removing...ok if you have replacments but you may just want to remove to check rotor arm)
Once these pipes have been removed you can go about taking the leads out of the plug holes in the cylinder head. I'd recommend just un plugging and resting on engine as these can be used later to make sure you have the right firing sequence on the new dizzie/leads.
My spark plugs were absolutely solid to remove....Spark plugs should be done up hand tight, then given half a turn with the socket set (10mm Spark plug adaptor) Mine were overtightened
and nearly gave myself a hernia removing them.
Whilst removing, replace with the new spark plugs TIGHTENED ACCORDINGLY until all four have been replaced. You can also give them a bit of an oil before fitting but its personal choice.
Next step is to get your new dizzie cap and leads and match the old set with these to make sure firing sequence is the same (Dizzie cap and leads will be numbered to make this easier)....you'll know if they arent in the right order! Also unplug kind lead from distributor cap (the plug in the middle of the four running to spark plugs)
If they are magnecor, remember to use silicone grease on the rubber ridges off the lead ends to help make a good connection with the dizzie cap plugs.
Once this has been done, remove the two screws (8mm IIRC) holding the dizzie cap on the end of the head. This will remove the dizzie and the old leads in one, leaving you the rotor arm held on with two phillips screws. Remove these also, but remember to keep hold of the screws as the new rotor arm doesnt come with new ones
Now get your new rotor arm and line it up with the distributor (Can only go on one way) and screw back into position. Dont overtighten as plastic will crack easily and the new parts will be shagged.
Next step, get your new Dizzie cap and pre-fitted leads and re-fit new dizzie over the rotor arm, then screw in bolts to make a nice tight seal. Remember its plastic so dont over tighten these.
Now re-fit the king lead into the middle plug on dizzie. Magnecor came with a new king lead....which was nice Make sure the four spark plug leads go back in the same way the old ones came out. They should be lengthened just enough to reach so shouldnt get muddled up anyway. Push down on the ends until you hear a nice 'pop' as they fit over spark plug ends, and push in the surrounding rubber to create an oil free seal.
Now you can re-fit your TMIC and tighten bolts, clips for pipes and re-fit the earth point inbetween both bottom bolts. Make sure all are well tightened and no air is escaping.
Then re-fit your efi piping to airbox (induction kit) making sure all clips are tight and no air gaps.
Turn over the car to make sure firing sequence is correct, if it isnt the throttle body will make all kinds of pops and bangs.
Sit down, have a cuppa tea and bask in your mechanical wizardry. The GT now runs mint! Idles steady, response from throttle pedal is better and less jerky when changing gear etc...
This was done today in about an hour and this write-up is from memory so sorry for the lack of pictures or any mistakes.
My car had developed a small misfire recently and was feeling quite sluggish so i decided to buy the following:
1. NGK Iridium heat 6 Spark plugs (4)
2. Distributor cap and rotor arm
3. Magnecor 8-series Blue HT leads
And before I go any further I'd like to recommend Camskill.com as thats where I sourced the parts from. Toyota wanted £220.00 for all oem parts, Camskill came to £146.96p for the lot, and the plugs and leads are uprated ones.
Time needed - An hour
Tools needed - socket set (8mm,10mm,11mm, 12mm and a 10mm Spark plug socket attachment), Phillips and flathead screwdriver.
Ok To make a start you have to remove the TMIC (If you have FMIC then disregard this section although you may need to remove some piping to gain access to dizzie) To do this there are two bolts above, and two bolts below the TMIC holding onto the mounting brackets. Remove these four bolts and remove the earth cable situated on the mounting bracket below the TMIC.
Once these have been removed, undo the two clips holding the two pipes running into and from the TMIC and pull the TMIC out of the two pipes.
You can now gain access to all four spark plugs and leads. Also worth checking (mine was loose) is the PCV valve situated underneath the TMIC.
Next remove the clip holding the induction piping from airbox (induction kit) that runs to the join just before the 'EFI' badge on the intake pipes just after the 'S' bend in the pipe. This will give you better access to the Distributor cap and lead ends as these can be a bit difficult to remove/fit due to the 'clip' design on post 92reg cars. (People have said before these can snap whilst removing...ok if you have replacments but you may just want to remove to check rotor arm)
Once these pipes have been removed you can go about taking the leads out of the plug holes in the cylinder head. I'd recommend just un plugging and resting on engine as these can be used later to make sure you have the right firing sequence on the new dizzie/leads.
My spark plugs were absolutely solid to remove....Spark plugs should be done up hand tight, then given half a turn with the socket set (10mm Spark plug adaptor) Mine were overtightened
and nearly gave myself a hernia removing them.Whilst removing, replace with the new spark plugs TIGHTENED ACCORDINGLY until all four have been replaced. You can also give them a bit of an oil before fitting but its personal choice.
Next step is to get your new dizzie cap and leads and match the old set with these to make sure firing sequence is the same (Dizzie cap and leads will be numbered to make this easier)....you'll know if they arent in the right order! Also unplug kind lead from distributor cap (the plug in the middle of the four running to spark plugs)
If they are magnecor, remember to use silicone grease on the rubber ridges off the lead ends to help make a good connection with the dizzie cap plugs.
Once this has been done, remove the two screws (8mm IIRC) holding the dizzie cap on the end of the head. This will remove the dizzie and the old leads in one, leaving you the rotor arm held on with two phillips screws. Remove these also, but remember to keep hold of the screws as the new rotor arm doesnt come with new ones
Now get your new rotor arm and line it up with the distributor (Can only go on one way) and screw back into position. Dont overtighten as plastic will crack easily and the new parts will be shagged.
Next step, get your new Dizzie cap and pre-fitted leads and re-fit new dizzie over the rotor arm, then screw in bolts to make a nice tight seal. Remember its plastic so dont over tighten these.
Now re-fit the king lead into the middle plug on dizzie. Magnecor came with a new king lead....which was nice
Make sure the four spark plug leads go back in the same way the old ones came out. They should be lengthened just enough to reach so shouldnt get muddled up anyway. Push down on the ends until you hear a nice 'pop' as they fit over spark plug ends, and push in the surrounding rubber to create an oil free seal.Now you can re-fit your TMIC and tighten bolts, clips for pipes and re-fit the earth point inbetween both bottom bolts. Make sure all are well tightened and no air is escaping.
Then re-fit your efi piping to airbox (induction kit) making sure all clips are tight and no air gaps.
Turn over the car to make sure firing sequence is correct, if it isnt the throttle body will make all kinds of pops and bangs.
Sit down, have a cuppa tea and bask in your mechanical wizardry. The GT now runs mint! Idles steady, response from throttle pedal is better and less jerky when changing gear etc...
This was done today in about an hour and this write-up is from memory so sorry for the lack of pictures or any mistakes.